Bill90Loyale

As I mentioned a few posts ago: Symptoms suggest bad coolant temp sensor. $33 at 1st Subaru parts online.

Symptoms suggest bad coolant temp sensor. $33 at 1st Subaru parts online.

Wait for a warm spell. Bad stuff can start happening when you pry plastic in Michigan in the winter.

The diodes in the rectifier in the alternator may be fried. The glowing warning lamps ordinarily signal dead or dying alternator. The alternator and battery coexist like a married couple. If one goes sour, it often causes the other to fail. I would be surprised if the problem was not solved with a new alternator and new battery. If you can get to this point, avoid all jump starting activities. Jump starting your vehicle or using yours to jump start someone elses can fry your diodes. Don't ask me how I know this.

Be sure to: 1. Remove the distrib. cap and make sure the rotor screw didn't fall out.

Legacy 777 has posted pics here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=52053&highlight=coolant+sensor If that link fails, search "coolant sensor" on the new gen search function, and find the Legacy 777 photos that way.

Do not hate your auto parts store. They have fun cleaning fluids to consider buying when you need to kill some time, and sometimes beat Wal Mart on oil sales. Meanwhile, buy NGK plugs and Baldwin or Wix oil filters. Keep the little boxes so you can remember the numbers. For all other parts: 1. Junkyard; or http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/

Standard resistor burn out in the clock. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=26603

Right. Try it at 18 degrees instead of 20. Mine runs best at 18.

Me too. The synthetic may provide a little better protection at cold temps (though Oregon doesn't really present this issue). In addition, there are those who think that synthetic reduces bearing wear. There are those who are concerned that synthetic "causes" leaks. I haven't experienced that with the synthetic gear oil.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26603 Northwet (Pat) is the man. Meanwhile, the clock can be removed by gently prying the black plastic trim around the perimeter of the clock. The clock will pop out of the dash. The connector for the clock is accessed from the glove compartment. If you press inward on the glove compartment retaining brackets, the compartment will drop down and out of the way, allowing you to reach up and disconnect (and reconnect) the clock wiring. The back of the clock has about a three or four inch wiring pigtail that stays with the clock. Pat repaired mine about 3 or four years ago, and I haven't had trouble since.

I'm with jimkup. In an attempt to be a good "old gen" owner, I now have the world's most frequently rebuilt/repaired alternator. I had mine "rebuilt" by a local shop as a preventative measure." ($75). Then the diodes in the "rectifier" failed. ($75). Then the diodes failed again ($46 because the shop did the work at "cost"). I don't really blame the shop. I probably contributed by jumping other people's cars and lawnmowers with my battery. This is just a horribly long way of suggesting: Find a new or rebuild with a "lifetime warranty" and pay the price. It's worth it.

http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/

Mine is a 90 Loyale SPFI 2wd std tranny. 210K miles. Started to lose about a pint of coolant from the reservoir every 300 miles. As always, I assumed the worst at first. Blown head gasket? No. No bubbles in reservoir, no chocolate shake on the oil cap or in oil. Checked a lot of hoses, all the usual suspects. Took it to my mechanic to pressure test it. As soon as we had the pressure up, a steady drip came from the left side (drainplug side) of the radiator. Turned out my five year old radiator had failed in that corner. Total breakdown of the fins in about a four square inch area. Installed a new radiator, this one with "lifetime warranty." Thought I was set. Then the coolant smells started to fill the cockpit, and I was still losing coolant. Oh no - the dreaded heater core failure? Started to mentally brace myself for a complete dismantle of the dash, or one of the sawzall approaches. But wait... This weekend, my son and I took the old girl to the carwash. Long line (50 degree days in Jan. in VT will do that). While I'm waiting, I popped the hood, removed the spare, and voila:banana: there it was. The hose clamps securing my Prestone "T Flush" had loosened with time. When the system was pressurized, they'd spray coolant down onto the hot engine, the fumes then got sucked into the fresh air intake under the windshield, and I had the best simulated heater core failure you could hope for. A happy ending. Movie rights available.

Maybe I just missed your return. In any case, welcome back GD.

I've got a 90 loyale with 210k on her. New oil pump a couple years ago. (new oil pressure sending unit too). About 75-80 psi at cold startup. Steady 45 psi warm/3200 rpm. Don't assume that your sending unit is sending an accurate pressure to your guage.

Tried to remove my pickup tube once - I think there's an o-ring at the end of it. No luck. Mine wouldn't budge. Left it in and no problems. Engine now has 209k on it. I wonder if anyone's ever had an "issue" with the tube or o-ring?

I'm not sure which model you have. But once you check the 'tuneup' items (plugs fouled/mis-gapped), bad plug wires/coil wire, do the Seafoam treatment (including direct input to intake manifold), if it's still stalling, I would suspect: 1. Coolant temp sensor has died; or 2. Leaky accordian trunk hose from air cleaner to throttle body; or 3. Mass Airflow Sensor (MAF) is dirty or dead. Others will have some more suspects for you. Let us know what cures it.

If it's not a leaky line, it might be that the throttle body gasket blew. Mine did (at about 175k). Caused the white cloud and some performance issues. My mechanic replaced it, so I can't advise on difficulty, but it wasn't expensive.

Don't mean to hijack the thread, just curious - what are the red cladded wire and the yellow cladded connector for on your neg. battery post? My loyale has neither. Thanks.

I've dumped way too much $ into replacing the diodes in the rectifier (twice) and a new stator (oem Hitachi alternator). I understand Bosch rebuilds are available online. Sorry I don't have a link.

90 Loyale, 208K miles. Great shape except I've been dumping a ton of cash into the stock Hitachi alternator. Call me stupid, call me a sucker, just don't call me late for lunch. Here's the basic history: 1. Two years ago, had the alt overhauled by local alternator shop. Preventative maintenance. Brushes etc. (about $70). 2. One year ago, diodes in rectifier failed ($70). 3. Two months ago, stator failed ($70). 4. Yesterday, rectifier failed again. (alt is back in the shop). If you knew this shop, you wouldn't rag on 'em too much. Salt of the earth honest as the day is long (80 year old mom and her two sons). Been in business forever. What I wanna know: Any thoughts on what might be causing the failures in this scenario?

On my loyale, there were four bolts on the passenger side cover and five on the driver side. Access to the fifth one (underneath) was very limited so you just have to be patient with removal and installation of that bolt. Torque is a non-issue as the bolts and rubber washer things are designed to be screwed in until you hit all stop. I used no sealants. Clean up the covers and all mating surfaces until near perfect. Been four years. No leaks.

Now you don't need a hill holder anymore. Just park it on the flat spot.