Bill90Loyale

As you look at the engine with the hood up, the cover on the right side (cylinders 2 and 4) has five bolts. The cover on the left has four and is the easy one to remove. The fifth bolt on the cover on the right is difficult to remove because of its location (down and in back). I did mine from underneath and it took some time. Buy new rubber grommets for the bolts. The new gaskets are rubber, not cork. I used no RTV or other sealer. Gasket only. The bolts are designed to torque down until they stop. No torque wrench needed. It's been two years or so with mine. No leaks.

Are you sure it's the valve and not the EGR solenoid that's bad?

That's it. There are two others: the "coolant temp sensor" (which talks to the ECU) mounted directly into the intake manifold, and the "thermoswitch" on the radiator (which turns the radiator fan on and off).

Thank you to all. Erik, how did you re-pad? I've taken my seat out before, so I'm good to go on that. But how do you re-pad?

one more try...

The FSM calls for only 3.3 to 4 foot pounds torque for the oil pan bolts on the 90 loyale. So be careful. When I did mine, I put the car on my stands. Unbolted the two engine mount bolts. Put some wood blocks on my floor jack. Jacked engine up about two or three inches. Put shims in to hold engine up in that position. Removed floor jack. Took time removing the eighteen bolts. Jimmy pan off of oil pickup tube. It'll come off at the right angles. Don't force anything. Clean the mating surface on the engine very very well. Clean out your oil pan very very well. Take oil pan to your mechanic or friend with wire wheel. Remove all traces of old gasket from pan mating surface. Place new cork gasket on pan. Have fun figuring out which side up, sideways etc. Keep the faith, it'll fit. I used no gasket maker, sealant. Just cork. Use star pattern when tightening bolts. I just used sort of a firm solid stopping point approach. Tight with phillips head screwdriver. No leaks in two years so far. Go for it.

About seat cushions: Any long haul drivers out there have any suggestions for a really good seat cushion? I used to think they're uncool and only for old guys. Now I'm an old guy with a crappy back, potential hemorroids, general long-haul discomfort. Anybody have any good cushions to recommend?

I don't know what link is for what. What I do know is that the factory service manual for the 90 loyale states that the wire guage in the links is of a different size, so be careful replacing them. The two greens are the narrowest guage (.5mm squared), the red is .85mm squared, and the black is 1.25mm squared. The thicker the wire, the more amps it can handle before it melts in the required 15 seconds. If it were my car, I'd go to a dealer, bring your VIN number, tell 'em you want a new set of four links, and have them tell you which order they go in. If they can't, write again. Meanwhile, follow the advice by other posters to figure out the cause of the melted link. Just replacing the link may not be enough.

90 Loyale wagon had 15 years of accumulated dirt and salt. Basically looked like you would expect the carpet to look. So my 11 year old son and I made a project out of cleaning it on Memorial Day. How? Remove the entire carpet from the car, pour full strength Simple Green on the worst parts, let that soak for about 15 minutes. Take it to do-it-yourself carwash (or borrow a pressure washer). Blast that thing until the water runs clear. Dry in sun. Re-install carpet. Took us six hours. If you're in the mood, it's worth it. The dirt and salt are washed away and the crunchy portions of carpet look great again. The trick to carpet removal is seat and trim removal and minimizing the extent to which the padding gets wet. Which is entirely do-able, but a bit intimidating the first time. Feel free to PM me with any questions.

I just bought and had mounted my second set of Yokohama Avid Touring 175/70/13's. About $37 per tire. From Tirerack.com. The system has worked fine for me. Order the tires. The tires show up on the doorstep a few days later. Pay a local guy $10 per tire to mount and balance. This is an all season tire with 80K mile warranty. Forget the warranty. Expect more like 50K out of the tires. I have found this to be a good fit, good ride in snow and summer weather, and reasonable price.

Jack is right. Pat (Northwet) is the clock man. I mailed him my clock (which was non-functional for years). He mailed it back fixed. I haven't had to reset it since.

Update: Jerry (below) was right. The fix is the rubber sheath on the bottom of the shifter rod. Part #33154GA210 ($2.65). I also replaced the nylon bushing (this is the bushing that press-fits over the shifter rod ball joint at the bottom of the rod) Part # 733146000 ($7.48) and the rubber shock absorber for the base swivel mount on the linkage Part #33154GA042 ($25.80). A $38 fix that probably could be done for $2.65. If any manual tranny folks out there want to do this "buzzing shifter" fix, feel free to PM me for help. And thanks again to Jerry and others.

Thank you TahoeFerrari. I'll be checking those bushings. All other theories welcomed...

Bump.

90 Loyale, std tranny, fwd, 192k. Here's the recently-developing problem: Shift knob, shifter starting to buzz and vibrate excessively upon acceleration. Stops when you take your foot off the gas. Have checked pitch stopper (fine), and knob is tight. Anyone have this problem in past and solved it? What is it - axle problem, u joint problem, tranny or motor mount problem, bushings?? All help appreciated. Update: Jerry (below) was right. The fix is the rubber sheath on the bottom of the shifter rod. Part #33154GA210 ($2.65). I also replaced the nylon bushing (this is the bushing that press-fits over the shifter rod ball joint at the bottom of the rod) Part # 733146000 ($7.48) and the rubber shock absorber for the base swivel mount on the linkage Part #33154GA042 ($25.80). A $38 fix that probably could be done for $2.65. If any manual tranny folks out there want to do this "buzzing shifter" fix, feel free to PM me for help. And thanks again to Jerry and others.

Erik- I like the looks of your setup. More details please. Bill

I assume the battery is less than five years old and in good shape. Please be advised that (in my town, at least) there is a shop that does nothing but rebuild alternators, starters and radiators. Mine did the work in one day for about $75. My OEM starter has been great ever since.

My recent experience supports this theory. I generally don't change oil much in the cold Vermont winter. Had no tick this fall. Spring comes, so does tick. I did my spring oil change (castrol 10-30), added about 4 oz. of Seafoam to the crankcase, took the kids to Montreal (400 mile round trip). Tick gone.

Press on top of toggle switch to activate wiper. Press on bottom to activate washer. Washer fluid container is in left rear (as you look at car from rear) lightbulb hatch. Pump etc. underneath as described above.

Note: Rubber covers are still available at the dealer for about $5. I bought one a couple months ago. And the junkyard is even cheaper (or should be).

The bad news: Gotta pull "the whole thing." Good news: About 3 screws does it. Easy after the first time.

YES!

Miles- The photo is an EGR solenoid. How to tell? EGR prong has one horiz and one vertical prong (as shown) and PCS has two horizontal prongs in the connector. Good representation of appearance, as both solenoids are very similar other than connectors. Bill

For those of you who drive vintage EA 82's with dead clocks on the dash, I just want to remind you that if you click on the "Marketplace" forum, you'll find (in the Stickys up top) an offer from Northwet (Pat) to repair them (basically for free). Here's what happened to me: The deal on these clocks is that the resistors burn out or soldered joints finally let go. I struck out finding the right resistor locally. Gave up, took Pat up on his generous offer and mailed my clock across the country to Pat (about $1.75 shipping - the clock is light). Pat soldered in a new custom parallel resistor arrangement, patched up other weak soldered joints, shipped it back to me (along with a good deal he gave me on a mirror). He even returned my original envelope! When the clock arrived, it didn't work. Why? Because, in shipping, the mirror banged against the (bubble-wrapped) clock and popped one of the newly soldered joints. I paid a local sewing machine/tv repairman $10 to re-solder and the clock works like new. So what did Pat do when he heard this story?? He offered to send me ten bucks to cover the additional work!!!! They don't make honesty and service like this anymore. Get it while you can. Bill

Morgan- The FSM on the 90 loyale wagon says (and I quote): 1) Remove cap, special nut and cushion. 2) With rear gate trim detached, disconnect electric connector. 3) Remove attaching screws and take out wiper motor. I'm assuming that the stuck nut is on the exterior of the gate. Have you tried leaving it there and proceeding with step 3 to see if the motor just slides out past the stuck nut? Otherwise, I wonder if there's a circlip retainer or something to deal with. Hope this helps a little. Bill