Bill90Loyale

Heres what cured mine: (1) new oil pump; (2) run 10w30 in it; (3) new oem pcv valve; (4) do the full Seafoam treatment (suck it in the top, add to gas, add to oil per directions on can), (5)new plugs/wires/rotor/coil. If I had to guess which of the above are most important with respect to ping at high outside temp and under load? I'd go with (1) and (4). Timing: My mechanic swears by 18 rather than the stock 20 for the 1.8 spfi. Works for me.

Mine started to eat the left or right rear (I forget) on the outer edge (and yes, inflation pressures were maintained). In my case, I had new struts and springs put in the rear and that seems to have resolved the problem (and made for better handling). My rig has about 189k on it.

Just a word on treadlife warranties: My current set is an Yokohama Avid Touring model. Came with "80,000 mile warranty". Bought from discounttiredirect.com. Had 'em mounted locally by a non-Yoko muffler/tire shop. Failed to obtain documentation of vehicle milage at time of mounting. Tires have been fine for about 45,000 miles. Now down to wear bars. Need replacement. Pro-rated warranty coverage? No. Can't prove milage on vehicle at time of mounting. Recommendation: Avid H4S has, I think, a 60K mile treadlife warranty. If you buy from Tirerack, have 'em mounted at a Yoko tire dealer in your area (Yokohama website has dealer locator). Make sure dealer/tire mounter records vehicle milage at time of mounting on your receipt. Have tires rotated on schedule, and maintain records of rotations. Keep an eye on "uneven wear" during life of tire. So far as I know, if your 60K H4S's last for less than 60, you can collect a prorated discount on a new set. My conclusion: Yoko makes a fine tire. Just be skeptical about treadlife and try to hold them to their promises. Good luck.

The issues with starting sound like a bad coolant temp sensor. This is the device that tells the ECU whether the engine is warm or cold. (not to be confused with the thermosensor on the radiator that sends the water temp to your water temp guage on the dash). A bad coolant temp sensor can cause your fuel injection system to dump too much or too little fuel in at startup (causing a flooding or too lean condition) = will crank but won't start.

So that's why my Loyale had the blues this morning.... May she live on as a fond memory. The little ticks, little tears of oil underneath her every morning, the warning lights that stayed on after you armor-alld the steering column, the digital clock that beat to her own drummer, the snapped timing belt as you headed up that hill....oh the memories.

Questions: How old is the battery? ($75), When were the timing belts changed? (about $150), The clutch is original, you say? (parts about $175 + labor), and the oil pump and water pumps haven't been renewed? (about $90 + labor) = $490. 900-490 = $500. I think $500 might be a reasonable offer (if the body is basically sound). Good luck.

I'm with Qman on this one. I guess brakes. Any chance the e-brake or hill-holder function is involved here?

Here's an idea that has worked for me: Invest the $50-75 necessary to place an ad in the largest local newspaper. Talk the paper into putting the ad in the "cars for sale" classified. Along the lines of "Wanted - Subaru Loyale or older Legacy wagon - running or not ok. Call ......" With this approach, you sometimes capture the "little old lady" cars that relatives are trying to get rid of (they're browsing the cars for sale section to see what people are asking for their cars). Sometimes these cars won't start and people can't figure it out and don't want to sink any money into them (the "broken timing belt classic"). Best of luck, and make sure you have a good car seat for that little one. P.S. I'm now approaching 100,000 miles (of my own) on the Loyale that I paid $1500 for a few years ago.

O2 sensor gone TU? Meanwhile, I thought stock timing was 20 (I run 18).

Find it yet? If not, try this approach. Find your EGR valve (open hood, stare at engine, find mushroom shaped EGR valve on back side of engine, near top, left side). The aluminum metal EGR valve body will have a small black rubber hose connected to it. Follow that hose to where it connects with something. That something is your EGR solenoid. See the boxy little EGR solenoid with the weird little plastic plunger thing sticking out one side? Your Purge ControlSolenoid is just closer to you from the EGR solenoid and it looks very much like the EGR solenoid. To confirm, note round black canister near your left hand as you stare at the engine. See all the little black hoses coming out of this canister? Trace your little black canister hoses toward the engine until you find one that plugs into a thing that looks like your EGR solenoid. That's your Purge Control Solenoid!

I think this thread should be submitted to the nearest law school for use as a test question for the next exam. How many torts (slander, libel...) and/or potential misdemeanors and felonies can you spot?

"Wiper Snuggies" ($3 or $4 at Napa).

Meanwhile, how about some details on the vehicle. For example, how new is that nice paint job?

My approach is a mix of the above. Step 1: Go to Wal*Mart. Purchase a Spillmaster Euro Junior adjustable mug holder (auto section, about $3.79 and, for the moment, made in America). Go home. Park Loyale. Step 2: Remove the coin tray under the hand brake (push the front edge toward the rear and pull up, it'll pop out. This is also what you have to do to adjust the hand brake). Place the Euro Jr. on the coin tray in the position that you want it - open the mug holder so that you reveal the screw mount hole in the base of the mug holder. Drill a hole in the coin tray in the location that will allow mounting of the Euro onto the tray. Step 3: Go to hardware store and buy a bolt, nut and lock washer of the right length and diameter. Step 4: Mount Euro Jr. to coin tray. Step 5: Install coin tray back in the Loyale. Step 6: Custom adjust your adjustable Euro to your cool coffee mug. Step 7: Enjoy taking those sharp turns with your steaming mug securely nesting in your custom-mounted $3.79 adjustable mug holder. It doesn't get any better than this.

Pegg- Congratulations on sticking with a fine vintage Subaru. If it were my car, I'd stick with 10w30, I'd do a full "Seafoam" treatment on it (search "seafoam" on this and the old gen forum for more info), and next time you pay the mechanic to change the timing belt (have you put 60,000 on since the last belt change?), I'd have the oil pump resealed or, if you prefer, replaced. Not all that expensive. For oil filters, I currently like Baldwin, but many people are very happy with Wix or Napa. I took the steps above with my own 90 loyale and haven't ticked since. Meanwhile, relax. You have a great car even if it does tick.

Timing belt snapped?

NGK. Gap .044 Gap is .050 if you are using an aftermarket high-voltage coil.

Morgan- I have to assume that this guy's belt life will rival that of the star of the film Supersize Me.

A couple-a long shots: Check fluid and belt on power steering pump. Lift front end and examine tie rods/struts/wheel bearings (rock wheels with hands). Avoid high speeds until you pin this down.

The sensor is to the left of the coil pack and tucked way down underneath some PCV hoses and two big wiring harnesses. Hard to find the first time. Search the forum. There are pictures out there. A bad CTS should cause you to be having hard starting (turns over, but won't fire up the way it should). About $30.

Greetings All- The story I am about to relate is true. So I leave the office yesterday at the end of the workday. Car is on the 4th floor of the city parking deck. Arrive at car. Windows steamed/frosted up. Odd, but not that odd. Get in car. Notice dirty snow on front seat, broken custom-mounted Spillmaster Euro Junior coffee mug holder (now I'm really bummed), and my screwdriver and sunglasses on the floor. Really odd. Must have been ripped off, says I. Better check my tool box, custom bungee-corded into the back section of my 1990 Loyale wagon with 186,865 miles, to see if the perp made off with my tools. Open rear gate. A male human head pops out from underneath the blanket that I keep in the car. Using my best Barney Fife imitation, I say "What in the heck are you doing buddy?" He says, "Just trying to stay warm." I say, well that's fine, but how about getting out of my car. He swings his legs out, which I now notice have chains around his ankles. He's dressed in jeans and a sweatshirt (it's about 0 degrees F.). At this point, I ask him what he's hiding under his sweatshirt. He removes his hands, which are connected to one another with handcuffs. He asks if he can have my blanket. I say no, but I'll be happy to give you a lift to the police station. He politely declines, then asks if I could take him to a "friend's house." I say no, I don't think we'll be doing that. I then tried my "prison ministry" thing on him (e.g. you really should do the right thing and turn yourself in). He seemed somewhat moved by this, but elected to shuffle off as hurriedly as a chained man can shuffle. I then returned to the office and notified the authorities. My daughter and I later went to the Wal*Mart and found a perfect replica of my Spillmaster Euro Junior ($3.79 and made in America), and the repair has been completed. For the rest of the story, Google the Rutland Herald newspaper (Vermont). See the lead news article headlined something like "Man Escapes Through Courthouse Window". When you get to the part that mentions that police think that the fugitive sought refuge in a parked car, that's me. Bill

Thank you MorganM, archemitis, hush777. Consensus is to get one. I'll buy one from the dealer. Morgan- thanks for double-checking the 1stsubaruparts site. That's where I ordered from, and that's why I was checking with you guys. They don't seem to have or list the pilot bearing. Thanks again.

Gonna rebuild the clutch on my 90 Loyale 1.8 spfi 2wd. From 1st Sub Parts.com I've ordered: Disk ($61.50) Pressure Plate (71.08) Release (Throwout?) Bearing (17.96) And a Rear Main Seal (11.08). I ordered online. For my vehicle, it appears that a Pilot Bearing is not required. Checking Haynes, it looks like pre-1985 loyale clutches have a pilot bearing, and post-85 loyales don't. Can anyone confirm? Any other parts recommendations? Thanks in advance.

Coolant temp sensor is my guess. Assuming you have this sensor, when they go bad, they fail to tell the computer that the engine is warm already. Computer thinks the engine is cold. Feeds too much fuel on warm startup, floods, causes hard starting. Replace sensor.

Dave- If yours is like my 90 loyale knob, it does have a plastic retainer collar at the base of the knob. You just carefully pull the top of the boot off of the collar, then unscrew the knob. I recommend junkyard for new (used) knob. There are plenty out there. In my case, my brother (a sculptor) carved me a custom made knob out of Arizona mesquite. Mounted a 12mm (14?) nut inside the knob (I think that's the diameter of my stick, 1.25 thread pattern). Since the old knob had the boot retainer collar built into it (and the new custom knob did not), I found a perfect metal retainer collar at the local hardware store with a built in allen nut to slide down the stick to the perfect height of the boot, tighten allen nut on collar, slide top of boot over collar, screw on new knob and enjoy.