Dirk

NEVER EVER leave the house without a coffee! So do you think that a push rod may have bumped off and jammed?

DUDE! I wound it up to 130k(80) in third gear to find out what rpm. Answer... Close to 6500rpm. Nice one! No valve dancing for me. I'm assuming your clearances were tight but I would like to know for sure please?

doesn't sound promising. If it makes you feel any better, I recently strpped down an EA71 which was mostly in good order except for the oil pump which was totally siezed. This was due to lack of oil as far as I can tell (filter was still dry). So the short answer is I have no idea what could be wrong. The longf answer is check the oil pump and any basics before you get too dispondant. Good luck. Dirk

UPDATE: See this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1047585#post1047585

UPDATE: Well there was indeed a little pinging/knock going on which I have resovled with a combination of tuning and cooling. The major noise however was infact the rocker assembly! Most of the oil passages needed a good clean. One in particular was totally blocked. Have totally reconditioned the rocker assemblies and cleaned out the push rods properly. Also I have reamed out the oil passages in the rocker adjusting screws since these were the smallest holes. After this and the tuning the engine sounds beautifully smooth and quiet with just the satisfying sound of my happy little tappy tappets. ALL GOOD! Thanks to all for input. Dirk

Hey. Have a look at this. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=123064

And No that is not the correct time on the clock. Its only correct twice a day.

Sure ive posted this pic before but here it is again. Mostly stripped out for extra space but lots of custom mahogany.

The oil passages are tiny. Would it be ok to open them up a touch? Maybe the push rods too?

I regularly wind my girl up to 6000rpm. She loves it! I do keep my valve clearances on the sloppy side and timing is conservative. You haven't given us much to speculate on but I don't think you were really abusing the engine. My guess at the moment would be con rod failure. Or at a pinch crank shaft failure. Good luck with the transplant. And enjoy the process.

80 in third! yeah man. you would have been up past 5500 rpm. Good on ya for giving it the beans! Would be interested to find out what let go. Pics! P.s. glad you have a backup plan ready to go. Would AA tow it to NZ? Warm weather here.

My setup. Sorry pics are up the wrong way. Not sure why that happened.

Wouldn't hurt to check timing. Also vacuum hoses and the like for air leaks. Are all the plugs the same colour? Not familiar with these engines but would a bad O2 sensor do this?

[quote 1981 Brat daily driver What a beauty! You should be very proud.

Yup. Slot mags look great on these old girls. Just keep looking man they come up on ebay and the likes from time to time. I would love these rims in 15 or 16 inch but I may have to wait a while to find them.

Errrrrr? Its not finished yet. Come back tomrrow........ Heaps of muppets driving on the wrong side of the road here too!

Still alive Still road legal Still my daily driver

Sorry man. Was having a little moment when I wrote that. I get wnat you are saying but unless I get my heads flow tested I won't know if I can make the most of the duals. Hence the dilema.

Cool. Thanks. The other apsect is that the long manifold promotes good torque. The dual carbs technically shorten the manifold lengths so I could be sacrificing the low end torque for breathier top end power. I wonder if the boxer design will get the most out of the dual carbs or if the weber is better suited. I am crrently running the EA81 28/32 carb of a stock Ea71. It feels well matched at the moment. Certainly no benefit to a larger carb without the further mods.

Not really. spell it out for me.

Hey. Heaps of porting and polishing to heads and manifolds. Lightend flywheel. Fully ballanced Cam grind Pretty much the works. I have a dual carb manifold and also a single carb manifold that takes the larger EA81 hitachi. Flow should not be a problem for either setup. Like every greedy person I want good top and low end power. So far as I have read, it would seem that the single weber would give me better low end and the duals would give better top end. I would like to test this theory with some of you guys who have one or the other. I would try both myself but I only really have the cash and time to complete one of these setups. Cheers Dirk.

I'd want to be sure that the throttle valve is closing all the way. Are you sure you have enough slack in the throttle cable? Can you look down the carb barrels and see the valves are shut? Sorry for pointing out the obvious but its alway good to have fresh eyes on a problem.

Sounds like you are about right with the idle mixture screw but remeber a few things. Firstly, that it is just an idle mixture screw. it only affects idle and just off idle. Secondly, if the plugs are fouling up then if anything something could be too rich already. Thirdly, Anything you do to the carb will be affecting all four cylinders. Since you have narrowed the problem down to two cylinders it would suggest that it is not a carb related problem. I think you should be looking more closely at the igition system. Since timing will affect all four cylinders it is unlikely to be timing related. Did you check the condition of the distributor already? Also clean up those plugs and reset the gaps. My primary suspect would be a cracked distibutor cap or perhaps some moisture in there. Maybe leave the choke alone for now untill you have eliminated all other variables

Just been reading up on this one myself. Nipper posted a good article. Very informative. Negative camber is generally accepted for good cornering stabilty on road. / \ This allows for good tyre contact on the outside tyre. Positive camber \ / allows for light steering in offroad conditions. Earlier soobs are set up with positive camber. Not sure about later ones. 'Toe In' allows for stable straight line driving. 'Toe Out' can promote over steer on front wheel drive cars. 'Toe Out' is also helpful when you have positive camber. It evens the tire wear. 'Toe In' does the same for negative camber. The bit that I can't work out is that my Gen1 specs are for positive camber and 'Toe In'. I'm going to look into the possiblity of longer control arms to change the camber.

Sounds like maybe timing is a little retarded. Deffinately keep working on the transmission but also take a good look at the igition system. Make sure everything is ok then have a crack at setting timing by ear or with vacuum gauge. Timing marks on the flywheel may not be entirely accurate.