simbey1982

hmm...ill have to check that out..i followed the wire from the ignition switch and it went up into the bulkhead harness....must drop down again.

Hey all, i have a 1992 Legacy turbo (1st gen legacy). Im having major issues with a sticky Starter interlock relay. So i need to replace it. Trouble is i dont want to tear the dash apart just looking for it. Where would i find this relay??

Anyway i just want to say thanks for your help and ill post updates as soon as i find all this stuff out Cory

yeah its a SOHC...i dont think i would even work with a DOHC this much....the SOHC first was in the 99 forester and 2.5 RS using a MAF based system. In 2000 all 2.5 vehicles went to the 2.5 SOHC and switched to the MAP based System Just so happens i have the "rare" engine...fun for me...

i have a legacy turbo and there are really only a few things you can do. 1. Make sure you have light alloy wheels it helps alot if you have the stocks they are ok too 2. Putting on an intercooler, BOV, Fuel cut defender, Boost guage and controller is the best way to increase HP. It helps a lot and is fun fun...legacycentral.org has a TON of info on this. Also a WRX turbo is a mostly bolt on application. 3. Not that i condone this in any way, but some people are taking out their catalytic converters for off road of course:clap: and then opening up the exhaust. This helps a bit but is loud. Like nipper said there isnt a huge amount of horsepower to be found but you can do some stuff to make it faster

That makes total sense and would be a great thing to check Well i have a haynes manual for the earlier subarus...do they make them for the later ones? I have a friend who has been printing stuff out of the subaru manuals...he has a subscription to one of those services Can i get a haynes manual for the 99?

crank gear is the one in the middle on the crankshaft behind the acc. pulley? im not sure what 6 ear means.....Any pictures? they would be worth a thousand words Sorry im still learning the exact jargon

thanks nipper ill do this on the weekend and post back

Cool...ya learn something new everyday. How much oil do you spray in? What range should be compression readings be? Thanks for the super quick replies

Well i bought the engine from a reputable guy that promised me it ran before he pulled it. Haha yes the ECU part of the story i didnt convey. the first ECU i got was sold to me wrongly and was for a 2000 Version of the SOHC which is MAP based. I have the 99 version which is MAF based so no dice on the ecu. I then bought another one from a punk on NASIOC who overcharged me and sold me a California version so then i bought a 3rd one from a used parts dealer who pulled a non california 99 SOHC ecu from a running car. So unless my luck is as bad as it possibly can be, it should be ok PS you mentioned a wet dry compression test? whats the diffrence between wet and dry...other than the obvious :-p

hope to come again this year...less one car if i cant get it running but il lmake a showing. Also i think its hilarious how just after the initial announcment there was about 12 posts about ..."well i guess ill have to get the car running again" just thought it was funny:drunk:

Ill try that when i get home Yes, the fuel pump charges and the spark plugs are wet with fuel after cranking...also the fuel smell after cranking Used a multimeter and the injectors are indeed pulsing My next move is to check the sensors, i also have some sensors i can swap in for test purposes The SOHC has the ignitor and Coil all in one unit. All signals going in seem to be fine. Also i switched it with another car, the other car started mine still didnt. Yessir Had to splice in ECU Power, Ground, AC junk, Stuff for oil and temp indicators on the dash, fan control, things like that The problem is I have weak spark off one coil and NO spark off the other. I have checked and rechecked the signal, ground, and power to the coil and they are all working properly. Since i tested the coil that cannot be it. My only thoughts were that timing was off or CAS CPS sensors were dead. I verified the timing with a new belt and correct alignment. It changed the cranking by eliminating a cough that used to happen every 4 or 5 cranks. So im down to thinking valves, or sensors. Id like to take another compression reading, and try the test sensors What do you think?? Thanks for the reply nipper

Hello all, Just so you are familiar, ive been doing a SOHC 2.5 swap into my 97 impreza L Sounds cool right....yeah that is if you dont get the wrong wiring harness and find out after youve spliced it in etc etc. Needless to say ive been fighting this for 8 months now. My current issue i ran into was that i was getting very odd spark or no spark on the coil. Tested absolutely everything and came to the conclusion that the timing had to be off or the sensor was dead. Got a new timing belt and put the bad boy on. Now the engine turns over find but doesnt fire (there used to be a cough ever 3 or 4 cranks) I am going to try swapping sensors to see if that works. but im concerned that if it made a diffrence to do the timing that i have a bent valve or 16. My buddy mentioned a leakdown test of some sort. How would i be able to tell i have a bent valve without taking the whole blasted thing out and taking the heads off? Thanks for any info Cory:horse:<- this is the best emoticon ever

Well let me give you one piece of advice: Dont rally it with a "quick drain" oil plug on it. It opens up and drains all the oil....most engines dont like that =0) Thats how my 260,000 engine died....such a shame it was in its prime.... I recall a post a while back about a guy in the netherlands who worked as a lead car in caravans of new cars. He had his Outback sport for almost 500,000 miles before it needed major engine work. Of course he kept it maintained etc etc

Its a chore...i still have to put mine back in....im waiting for my engine to work though

Just showing support and extreme interest as my engine swap is having just about the exact same problem

BTW subaru actually has you use a tool that has a bar and holds the pulley via the holes in the center

Here is what i ended up doing. I have a MT so it would probabally be diffrent on a AT. I noticed on the passenger side of the bell housing about half way down there was a screw hole. On further inspection i found it goes right to the Flywheel. I then took a piece of round stock and ground the end so it would fit between the teeth in the fly wheel. I cut the round stock so i could get a bolt behind it in the hole. Then i put the round stock in and tightened a bolt behind it. ROCK SOLID!!! came of with a breaker bar and some elbow grease Good luck to all:banana:

It tells the ECU wether the Car is in gear or in neutral. If you put an ohmeter on the switch you will notice the circuit closes when in nuetral and opens in gear...or vice versa...now what it actually does to the fuel mapping etc...i dont think it does anything, but it is there

yeah i have a manual so im going to use a punch in the flywheel. Thanks as always for all the help

Using something in the "flywheel" or "flexplate" seems to be the thing to do. I have a couple of ideas....im just dragging my feet cuz if the timing isnt off on this car im about ready to roll it in a lake =0)

thanks for all the tips guys i will try them out

interesting...ill pick one up...the tool i had was much diffrent

Hey all. I need to take off the main pulley on my subaru and I had a homemade tool that did the job but i cant find it. What do you guys use?? Is there a decently priced tool that will do the trick..let me know Thanks Cory

Geez your right on top of this...thanks man....have a banana for your troubles Will see what i can do =0)