daredevil1166

Is that to say the driveshaft from an 03 Outback was a good fit without modification? I will try to get pictures soon.

Really cool. A couple of questions so I can understand better. Why use the AWD center diff? Is it not possible to keep the PT transfer case? Why the RX input and and output shafts? Could you not use the GL ones? What was the original ratio of the RX trans?

My thread..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129421&highlight=dual+range+swap&page=1 The thread I got most of my info from..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109402&highlight=waterwagon It would be nice if someone got all the info together, took better pictures, and did a better write up. Not sure about the manual/auto crossmember difference. But, they are easy to modify. Just drilling holes. One side of the EJ cross member is at a different angle so I made a wedge shaped spacer to get the angle closer. I'd be happy to take some better pictures for you. Just let me know what all you want pics of.

Possible I'm sure. Really not worth it. It really was easy to bolt the EA shifter on. Don't over think it. It's a relatively easy swap. There was very little modification necessary and most things worked themselves out with only a little thought on my part. If you're thinking of doing it and have the money, just go for it.

The shifters are bolted together just like in the original car. I just made a simple bracket to bolt them to the rear of the hole in the body. You can kinda see where it bolts in this picture. I've since repositioned the gear shifter and put the original plastics back on. Might as well throw in a few other pics while I'm at it. How I marked the flywheel. Used the pilot bearing to center the flywheels together then sprayed paint in the holes. Worked awesome. The D/R opened up. Clutch, pitch stopper and adapter plate. You can see the hole in the firewall where the hydro clutch master was. Last one is the driveline extension before I welded it together.

Got 4wd! Drive line is in and all is well. I turned a piece of 2.5" OD 3/16 wall tubing down to fit inside the front section tube. Made it a pretty tight fit, I had to heat the drive line to get the piece in. I figure that helped it stay straight and the tight fit will help it handle the torque. Very glad to have 4wd. Project is mostly done. Just need my custom shifter boot and I'm gonna call it finished.

Yes there is a thing there with the spline count and shaft size. I can't remember the measurements now but the correct one is Exedy 15-009. I used this one.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-15-009-New-Clutch-Set-/270921981388?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f14355dcc#ht_929wt_931 Parts Blvd is part of Performance Warehouse which is part of Baxter Auto Parts. They're so close to me that I got it the next day. To give credit where it's due, I didn't figure out the clutch stuff or find that kit, I found the info here. I have a few tips and pictures to post that would help people do this. I'll get them up when I can.

Yep. The EA D/R is about 2" shorter.

Well, it's in and driving. In FWD that is. I'll post some pictures of how it worked out when I can. It worked very well and went easier than I thought. The flywheel ground out nicely, the EJ pitch stopper and bracket bolted right up, and the bottom boot for the EJ shifter flipped upside-down and worked awesome on the EA shifters. Splitting the D/R went well too. Took about 2 hours to replace the stub shafts and reseal most of it. Here's where I run into trouble. The driveline. The cost of lengthening my front section is ridiculous. Apparently it's an odd tube size, u-joints aren't replaceable(by them at least), and the taper at each end causes problems. For anyone who's done this project, I'd like to know what exactly was done to your driveline to make it work. I'd rather not go to a one piece. My only idea so far is to cut the tube, have a pieceof tube machined down to fit the ID and weld it in. Then have it balanced of course.

I doubt I'll do a full write up. I'll put some info up. I got most of mine from here anyway so I don't have much to add. So far there isn't anything too complicated. It's just having the money to do it. I got some great deals and have done a lot myself so I'm not much into it but, I think you could easily put $1000 into doing this. ^^^^^ Cancel that. Got something figured out. Thanks though.

How do you do the flywheels? Surfaced or balanced already? I'll definitely take two stubs and maybe a drilled flywheel. Got a rusty one to exchange if it'll do me any good. I can come get them tomorrow(wednesday) evening if that's possible.

Thank you. Clears that up. Can you line out what years have what switches? In their original car are the Lo and Neutral switches used by the engine/ECU? What would happen if an 89 lost it's Neutral and Lo switches? Lo is just as an indicator right? What about neutral? Just so happens my brother has an 89 with a D/R and we're swapping engines anyway. My front diff with stub shafts has gone MIA from my family's place. So I may not split the trans. But, the front seal is puking. I see it has a cover that can be unbolted there. Can I get at that seal to change it without splitting the case? Or, anyone got a junk trans hanging around I can get the stub shafts from? Also could use a junk EJ flywheel.

Finally got a 96 pedal assembly. So that's solved. Pain to find though. What's better to seal the rear pieces after I split the D/R? Anaerobic sealant or the OEM gaskets? It seems to me that using a sealant will make the flanges closer together. I'd rather do that but could it be an issue for clearances? I have two D/R's. One doesn't have two switches that the other has. Those are neutral and 4wd right? So I'll have to use the one with a neutral switch so I don't get a CEL, correct? Hoping I can trade for another one with switches or add them so I have a spare. It has the spots. Gonna see if I can just drill/tap to add them.

Almost a year now. Curious what came of this.

I didn't think of that. Kills that idea. I'll keep loooking for a cable pedal assembly. Thanks.

Thanks, good to know. We'll see what happens. It would be really cool if the hydro fork would work. I guess I could weld up the slot in an EA fork and make it work as well. They all just move the top of the fork toward the rear of the car right? I'm anxious to get everything apart and start matching things up.

Hmmm......Mine did. That's weird. I really thought I remember it being hydraulic somehow. Was I maybe seeing part of the HH system? I said awhile back I wanted to switch over to a 96 OB clutch system, with the hill holder. I hate the hydro system. Just thinking about other options. I'm having a hard time finding junkyard parts. I can always change things and make them the way I want later. Yes, I'm aware of that as an option. Still want to keep the ones I have as they are. I'd be happy to put in an OBX diff. If they donate one to me. Glad to know the adapter won't be an issue.

I thought it was clear. I should have specified a little better. I know a 4 bolt trans will bolt to my 8 bolt engine. Any reason a standard EA/EJ adapter plate made for a 4 bolt EJ engine wouldn't work on my 8 bolt engine?

Planning my D/R swap, ordering parts, and getting a list of junkyard stuff together. 1....I'd like to keep my hydro clutch if i can. I believe my 88 DL had a hydraulic clutch. I can't remember exactly how it was set up, and can't find one in a junkyard. So, could I use a fork from one of those to make it work with my 99's hydro clutch? Obviously I'd have to figure out mounting for the slave cylinder, but I can handle that. I'm starting to remember something about a cable still being involved. Was it a slave attached to a cable? Could I just use a slave from an EA in that case? 2....I'm going to swap the stub shafts from an old 99 trans so I can use all my current axles. Got MWE's and lots of spares. Had my 99 trans apart a few times now. How bad is the D/R to split? Can't find any write up on that one. Know of any you can link? 3....I know a 98 4 bolt trans will bolt to my 8 bolt engine with light modification. I assume I'll be able to make an adapter plate bolt to it as well? Last, anybody in the Portland area have an EA flywheel they can part with?(I'm striking out at junkyards lately)

Check vacuum lines. That's about all I've got. I've been known to miss a vacuum line when installing an engine and I usually get a MAP code for it. Also check the ground wiring. I've missed a ground as well and had all kinds of sensor codes from it. It seems to me like the lifter noise is unrelated but someone with more knowledge of the 2.2 will chime in and help you out there. I'd start with checking wiring and vacuum lines and go from there. My money's on that.

Ding Ding Ding!!! Show him what he's won! I think a good portion of rod throwin' could be attributed to this. I'm certainly not saying I didn't just get lucky and get a good one, but I'm fond of my EJ25D. It's got 175K, and 50K on the first head gasket replacement. I've redlined it for most of the day on dunes more than once(the first time was the day the HG blew). I've just generally beat the hell out of the poor thing. But, I've cared for it very well at the same time. If you maintain it properly, I think it's an OK engine. Not good, not great, but good enough for me. That said, I'd only rebuild or get a rebuilt one if I were to replace it. The devil I know is better than some 50k, oil never been changed, driven like mad, JDM boat anchor.

A buddy and I made a standard skateboard motorized when I was a kid. We built a rig with an 8" spring loaded wheel hanging off the back. It mounted to the four bolts that held the rear truck on, so it could be bolted to any skateboard. We never did figure out how to make turning work well that way though. The fifth wheel made it really hard to turn.

I had that tire and size on my 99 OBW when it was stock. No rubbing. I think the tires sucked though.

You mean like this? ^^^^ it's been there since early December. I'm getting pretty fond of it. It'll be sad when it finally blows off. It does catch stuff, obviously. But, I have the whole inside to pack crap into. Works great for camping 'cause it has plenty of room to just set totes inside it. I measured mine and it's closer to 10". Taller than I wanted it to be but I kinda just slapped it together. How did you clamp the handle of the shovel? You can see in the pic how I held my axe and shovel on. Just hooks that they set into and bolts with washers and a piece of rod welded on them to hold it in. And how did you get paint to stick to the galvanized pipe?

Well done. I made mine out of 1/2" EMT too. Looks like yours is 3/4" and 1/2"? I've got my shovel, axe, and Hi-Lift mounted on the outside of it. It's amazingly strong and weighs less than 20lbs. Great for it's size(3'x4'x8" tall) I'd like to redo it sometime when I have a way to notch the pipe so it fits together better, and a more accurate way to bend the corners.