daredevil1166

That's awesome! Got a web link to the story/feature?

The light holes look good if you stick a small set of oval fog lights in them. I did that to mine after I cut it off. Looked really good until I bashed them up.

Yep, they do flex quite a bit. That's why you push down on it to take some of the flex out, then hit it closer to the socket where there's less flex. I have two broken 1/2" ratchets. Both were the victims of axle nuts. Harbor Freight's 3/4" drive set is perfect for this stuff. I think I got mine for $44 on sale. Comes with sockets, breaker bar, extensions, and ratchet. Actually I have two, one metric one standard.

GD said it. You want sharp, quick blasts on the nut. Don't just pull/push the tool with steady force. I wouldn't use a ratchet though. That's a good way to break the innards of even a good ratchet. Get another breaker bar. Put it on horizontally pointing to the left. Push down on it with your left arm and body weight while hitting the breaker bar with a hammer about 8" from the nut. The cold chisel method works sometime but you can also mess up the nut so that no socket can grab it.

There is a light that shines through to the vertical slit in the center of the slider. It's pretty easy to replace those bulbs. And you can clean the stupid sticky heater buttons while you're at it. There are a couple different ones in there. I can't remember which kind that one is. The foglight, cruise, and rear defrost buttons on my OB weren't lit when I got it. It took me almost a year to realize they were supposed to be. :-\ The heat level thing should lit up too. I can take a pic of mine with the lights lit when it gets dark tonight if you want.

Was this the dark colored one on Craigslist last week? Sounded like a good deal. I would have gotten it if I could. Welcome.

I'd super glue it. Or you could get another one at a junkyard. Interesting that it broke. I crank on mine pretty hard sometimes while wrestling the resonator into/out of place and it hasn't broken yet.

I've had all three of the tires discussed here. The Grabber AT2's, the Yoko Geolandars, and the BFG TA KO's. I would always pick the BFG's over the others. The Grabbers were a bad experience, great traction, but not a tough tire at all. The Yoko's were really tough but not so good traction off road. The BFG's are tough and have great traction, but are spendy. If you're mostly driving on the road and aren't terribly concerned about off road traction the Yoko's are a great choice. They're relatively inexpensive and have great road traction for an AT tire.

It might be cost prohibitive, but a really nice USMBer might be willing to pull the stuff off of one in the Portland area and ship it to you.

A few of my favorites. Stuck good.... My outback when it was all stock.... First snow of 2009.... **edited for toyota content. This be a Subaru forum.

Working on it right now.... not fun. Anyway, I noticed something interesting, the intake valve clearance seems to get bigger and exhaust gets smaller. A co-worker has a theory that exhaust valves.... the valves themselves, wear more because they are made of a softer material that transfers heat better. What do y'all think?

I'm not surprised. I have 2" lift blocks and I have no camber issues.

If the free play in the clutch pedal is not adjusted correctly it may not allow the clutch to engage fully. If there is no free play it could keep the clutch slightly disengaged and slipping.

Hey!! I resembled that remark. I had a gun rack in the right rear window area my 88 wagon. I used it for fishing poles and a hiking stick for the most part. It was just a universal one that sticks into the window molding. It worked fine and held up a very heavy .17HMR and a hunting rifle at the same time. I would have to tighten up occasionally though. It was also easily removable.

Interesting.... I think I'd better adjust my valves.

You mean this valve seat looks nice? Is it possible that the reduced clearance is a RESULT of the burned valve and not a CAUSE of the burned valve? If the valve face burns enough the spring would suck it up into the head and close up the lash, right? Has this valve burned enought that that's a possibility? I'd definetly like to see pics.

I believe it's because they wear the valve and valve seat together. Therefore the valve stem sticks further out. IMO... Most valves get looser over time because of the adjustment mechanism backing out/wearing. So without an adjustment mechanism the DOHC, the valves don't back out. The valve and seat wear and make it tighter.

The GD retirement plan at work here...... Have you checked the valve clearance? The DOHC is a shim and bucket adjustment. They never get adjusted and occasionally do get really tight. Maybe it just wasn't allowed to close properly because it's too tight. I dont know much about engines but over time couldn't that cause a burned valve?

Interesting.....I have a cluster from a 96-98 Outback in my 99 Outback.

Nice! I just split the new-used trans I put in my Outback last week. I was surprised at how easy it was. It was much easier to split the trans and replace all the seals than it was to just remove it. Gloyale's write-up on the front seal replacement helped a ton. So, you sprang for a new flywheel? Genuine Subaru?

I'm sorry guys, I was hoping to be the fifth order so it would at least be 20%. But the trans I just put into my Outback crapped out and I don't know how much money I'll have to put into it so I'm out on this buy. Thanks though.

I'll commit to an EA82 2" IF the discount ends up being 25%. Thanks kanurys for organizing this and Scott for discounting. Scott, when would you like payment? I'll probably come pick it up, is payment at time of pickup OK?

I think the muffler is the best part. Looks like a ton of fun to play with.

GD has a good point. Only a moron could mess up an EJ flywheel. I did have mine resurfaced the first time I did the clutch. But I got tired of pulling the engine so I went with all new everything the second time. I've found that subarugenuineparts.com is more convenient than the dealer. And cheaper, depending on where you live and what it costs to ship. I've gotten a ton of parts from them and they've been great. I only go to the dealer if I want something now and they have it in stock. SGP is only a day's shipping from me so if a local dealer has to order it and SGP has it, I get it quicker from SGP anyway. How was that trans seal replacement? I need to tear apart my trans and it's got me scared. I'd be more comfortable doing an engine rebuild.

I bought a new one. A Subaru OEM one. And I'd do it again. I like peace of mind. Really, it's just personal preference. I take it you took care of the trans seal?