daredevil1166

215-70 15 or 205-75 15 without lift. Any bigger will rub. As far as I know no one has tried 215-75's on a stock 96-99 outback but from what I've seen they'd rub pretty bad. Keep in mind different brands and models of tire will have slightly different specs.

There's an extra slot for a switch right next to the fog light plug. Could get an extra fog light switch from a junkyard and wire it the to new light's relay. I think the slot needs to be cut out. I got a $20 set of Harbor Freight ones because I beat the crap out of my lights. I've been waiting two years now for them to break so I could get new ones. They just keep going.

By-passing my heater core helped me drive around when mine blew. Less space for exhaust gasses to build up? It also helped to drive at higher RPM's. EG: Shift down to 4th at highway speeds. I might try removing the T-stat. If you can get some better flow out of the system it might help push those gasses out the cap. I don't like the lever vent caps because a stock cap seems to let gas out and keep the coolant in better. That's an awful long way to limp a car. Good luck.

Well, if you can get it to the Portland area, a few of us have been doing HG's on the side. Hopefully you can get someone closer, but it's an option. The same few of us might be interested in buying it as well. I would, for the right price.

That's the kind I meant. I didn't know the name for it. I use a 3/8 drive socket that's meant for 3/8 square fasteners to connect them. A difference of opinion then. I don't think it was useless at all and I didn't think it was necessary to muddle the thread with validations and evidence. The statements were true and I have no interest in convincing someone I'm right. Just presenting my experience and trying to contribute to the forum, since I've gotten plenty of help from it. It can be taken however anyone wants.

I'm allowed to do as I please. I don't need to be interrogated for posting my experience with the tool that was asked about. I didn't give any advice. Only my own experience and opinion about the tool so the OP could make up their own mind. I don't think that was out of line. Hook it to one of the older style with the needle and gauge and check when it clicks. Not the most accurate way but it makes me feel better. I check mine occasionally at 20 and 80 percent of their range. I trust it for more than personal use. I use it almost daily at work. I use it for jobs that are well over $800. For the record, I wouldn't use any HF torque wrench if I wasn't sure about it's accuracy. My 1/2" is not accurate at all. It stays in the toolbox.

I've got the HF 3/8 and 1/2. The 3/8 is very accurate. I used it for my head gaskets and they're still holding. I trust it.

There's a loop on the right rear of the engine(from drivers position). I use that and the A/C compressor bracket.

That's cool. I'm an idiot. Don't listen to me but take a look at this if you could.... especially post #15 http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/24013-vibration-when-stopped-gear-2.html And why diagnose a rough/low idle when you don't know he has it? Kudos for trying to help him, but you're assuming it's an idle issue when he hasn't even taken note of the idle.

Me too. But it's apparently a common problem with aftermarket axles. Do a search on subaruoutback.org. It comes up there quite often. Legback.... First thing you should do is note the idle RPM's when stopped and the car is vibrating. If they're low, it tells you it's an engine problem. If it's normal it would be somewhere else in the drivetrain.

I like the roof basket. Can you make it without the mounting clamps and keep it unpainted? I'd be adapting it for my Outback. Website lists it as $100, is that still the case? I'd pick it up from you.

It's on the road. I just don't want a twice bent suspension part under my car.

Sure. 97060

Hey cool, someone addressing what I asked for instead of what they think I need. Thanks, but I think the shipping would be an issue. They want 12.99 at the local yards. If only they had any.

I did. But bending it, then bending it back stretched it out. Now the toe is off and won't adjust out. It'll never be the same anyway. It just needs to be replaced.

Thanks. They are. Rides well. It's lifted with strut top blocks, and that helped stiffen things up so there's not a huge difference with out the sway bar. Broke the front sway bar on dunes, so I took them both off(better articulation off road). They'll be going back in with easy disconnects.

I may have been reading it wrong but when I checked Opposed Forces it said. "RR rear trailing link". That's what confused me. Thanks, for clearing it up. Now, anyone got one?

Thanks. It would be #32 in that diagram. Looks like they call it a "rear trailing link". I couldn't find a diagram to my specific car, but that one tells me what it is. Another diagram I found calls it a "lateral rod". So what's the common name for it?

99 Outback Portland, OR area. Ok, first, what it this thing called? Right rear wheel. http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss152/daredevil1166/IMG-20110112-00056.jpg Second, obviously I need one. I haven't seen an Outback in a junkyard around here in awhile. Anyone have one of these on a parts car or hanging around? Or have you recently seen an Outback in a junkyard in the Portland metro area? What other years/models would fit? Thanks

You can use a lighter oil in compressors in cold temps. Call a compressor place ask about it if it becomes an issue. I have the 3/8" and 1/2" socket sets(deep) in metric and standard. The oldest set is 4 years old and the only one that ever broke is the 14mm. Ooooh quotes... Ouch. Maybe it is. Rod knocks can go on for a long time and not get worse though. Either way there's no way to know it besides how it sounds and I'm not rich enough to chance it.

I have the cheapy 3/8 impact. It works great for small stuff and it's fairly light and fun to use. I've had it for a couple years(using it a lot as a professional tech). Some of them don't hold sockets well but if you're handy you can fix that. I also have the 1/2" "Earthquake" impact. This is a great combo, the little one for light jobs and the Earthquake for axle nuts, strut bolts and tight/big stuff. That 1/2" Earthquake is very powerful and I have yet to find something it won't do. Just remember to oil the tools and they'll work just fine.

I know what you mean. My car is routinely referred to as my "other girlfriend". I'm always prepared to stay as well. I have enough survival/camping gear that I could easily be out a few days. I have yet to stay out unexpectedly, but I don't think I'd mind it too much. I was at sandlake a month or so ago. It's getting a bit played out for me. I'm having a hard time finding anything I haven't done over and over. I haven't been around TSF at all though.

^^ fun! I thought about going up there one evening this week but it's near dark when I'm off at 4 and I didn't want to be stuck alone at night. I need to start being less of a wimp now that I have a winch though. I might make a try this weekend, it probably won't be as clear with the snow level dropping this week though. I took a look at your writeup in the magazine while I was at the store the other night. Cool little blurb. I say we flood them with Suby letters, make them pay attention. Edit: The snow level is supposed to be dropping and we should get some good snow.... maybe we should plan a last minute snow run for this Saturday.

Saw the reports on NAXJA. Looks like it was fun. Good job showing up a Jeeper.

I fail. For some reason I thought this was on anther forum and I couldn't find it 'till now. I'm sure you've got yours taken care of by now but I'll post this anyway in case someone else runs across it. http://s571.photobucket.com/albums/ss152/daredevil1166/