WoodsWagon

No way. The car would be sooo fast if that was true. You'd just need to be rolling to move under it's own power. The pinion gear in the diff is smaller that the ring gear on the pumpkin, so It is a gear reduction. the drive shaft turns 3.9 times to turn the axels once. 3,7 will make the car faster in speed, 3.9 will make it accelerate faster.

Wow. thats a lot of pictures. It slowed down my sattelight link. That truck is really nice. I wouldn't have the persistance to repair that much rust. The end result looks great though. nice rollbar.

Grab yourself a new bemper at the J/Y. its only 4 bolts and two connectors to take it off and put the new one on. The reduction in fuglyness will produce more love for the car. If you spend a lot of time in traffic, save the 5 speed for when you commute is more fun. fix the auto. They may suck power but you'll be hating the leg work of stop and go traffic. looks like a nice car other than the left front corner.

Yup, thats exhaust leaks. My EA82 GL had a header that was rusting out, as well as the rest of the pipes, and I removed everthing from the cat back (now thats a preformance exhaust!) and it would throw flames out the back of the cat when you let off on the gas. i guess its too much oxygen entering the catilitic converter that causes the backfiring.

i'v been dealing with this on my 92 wagon. My basic advise: take the mudflaps off of the car and replace them with a sheet of heavy rubber screwed into the fenderliner. Those mudflaps are badly designed and they actually hold water (and salt) cupped against the corner of the car. watch out in front of the rear wheels, the rust can blow through into the body channel and rust out your rocker panes from the inside. I'm working on a wand to spray rust inhibitor inside the whole channel on both sides.

I got mine all the way up on my GL, then took them off. To raise them, you need to take the wheel off, compress the spring somehow (I used vicegrips and copper wire) then cover everthing with penetrating oil and pound the snots out of the spring landing. You can hit it from the bottom from the front and the back. It helps a lot if you have a metal weight to hold against the bottom opposite of where you're hitting it. Doing it with them off the car would probably be easier, and its only 3 bolts to remove them. The top ones were a pain, you may need a breaker bar (my 1/2 inch imact driver at 100psi wouldn't move them) They provide about 1 to 2 inches lift. The manual makes it sound much too easy, mine said the same thing. the fronts are easy, you just turn the bolts sticking out of the bottom of the spring landing.

If I punctured my A/C condenser, would it be obvious? I was angry, and I took my car pounding through the woods, and a stick got shoved through the condenser and puntured the radiator. I know the radiator is popped, 'cause green coolant gor spread around by the fan, but I saw nothing on the condenser. The stick went through in between 2 of the flowchannels, and one of them looks like it has a crack, but I'm not sure. Would the refridgerent leave any evidence of its exit?

@$%#* (censored profanity)

While you have the radiator out (not hard to do) flush it out backwards inside as well as outside. Put that garden hose to good use! refresh the coolant while you're at it, its cheap insurance, unless the dealer just did it, then just throw the old stuff back in.

Fuel pump is out, rear diff, struts, crossbar, and axels came out as a unit. Coolent and oil drained. Gas drained (ol' chisel in the tank trick) Radiator removed. wiring harneses unplugged up to the firewall. Nothing came easy, thank god for impact drivers and 3 foot breaker bars. Tomorrow the engine/tranny drops out. If I get good at this, I'll do it to my neighbors junker and take the 2.2 for my loyale and keep my legacy in one piece.

Will a winshield from a 86 3-door fit a 91 loyale wagon? I ask because the winshield in the 3-door was anly 6 months old when the car was retired, and the loyale winshield has some seep gouges in it from the winshield wipers being run with no blades.

whooo... Yeah, head to a J/Y for parts. If the car already has dents from hail, just do creative body work to both sides with a sawzall and hammer. make all sides match. once youre finished, you could run bigger tires.

Speaking of Manchester subaru, I was there on friday and asked about the STi's. The rep said that the techs were preping them and they would be available for test drives on monday. You could pretend to be interested in upgrading and take it for a joyride. Just dont crash it, I want a turn. I've got a guy who will take me test joyriding in August. If you do, please tell if they send a rep with you or if you get to go out on your own. About the reliable mechanics, there are many independent mechanics in the area, and many of them are very good. I'm out in the boonies near milford, so I dont know any in the manchester area, but there's some good ones around my area.

could we hear the long story?

My test wll tell you if the front and rear diffs match though, and thats what he cares about. My bets are on the 3.9, mostly because they're more common, and the prevous owner would have (or should have) alerted him if he had swapped in a 3.7 tranny, but not the rear diff.

when you turn the car on, but don't start it, the pump should humm for a few seconds, then shut off. If it doesn't, then you have a problem. i second GeneralDisorder,get a wiring diagram, then check one unit at a time.

In 2 wheel drive, yes. In 4 wheel drive, no. the rear differential just freewheels until you engage 4wd. One easy way to check is to jack up both wheels on one side of the car, put 2 chalk marks on the tires, both at the same place, put the car in 4wd and turn the wheels. If the chalk marks still match, the diffs are the same, if they don't, you need a new rear diff.

Does it blow blue smoke when it spetters on left tuns? I remember something about the PCV system having mismatched hoses that allowed oil to build up and empty into the intake on left hand turns.

Do the 6 lug toy rims drop on, or do you have to shift the studs?

Resistance (ohms) is the horseshoe shaped icon on the meter. Volts DC is the Icon with a bunch of horizontal lines, some of them broken, or VDC. The black test probe is the negative one, and the red one is the positive one. If you hook them up backward, nothing bad will happen, the readings will be shown as negative. Since most cars are negative ground, the black probe should be contacting some good body metal, or the engine block. make sure the connections are good. To test resistance, just remember that what the meter is testing is whats between the two probes. To test the EGR solenoid, disconnect the connector going to it, then touch the two probes to the two spade termanals inside the connector going to the solenoid. a reading of about 43 is good, a really high reading or OL means that there isn't a real connection there. Hope this helps.

Double clutching on cars is only to help reduce wear on the tranny, which with synchros isn't a big issue to start with. I think that taking the extra time that double clutching takes could be used to shift the lever slower, and give the synchros more time to speed match and that would do the same thing. Coming into corners, you can just RPM match the engine to the speed and gear with the clutch out to get the jerk free engagement. The only place where double clutching is neccesary is on big trucks, where the combonation of the lack of synchros (on the older trucks) and the inertia of the gears in the tranny is such that you have to use the engine to match the gears or they will tear themselves apart. Good drivers neutral throttle the engine, shift into neutral and then match the engine speed (and with it half the tranny speed) to the gear they're about to shift into, then just slide the lever into the next gear. this is the minimum wear way to shift. My neighbor can do it with his trash trucks, he only uses the clutch to take off, for every other gear he just no-clutches it. No grinding, no working the clutch, just as smooth as can be.

Possibly work on the intake before the TB. It makes a nasty 90 degree turn at the TB, which might be a restriction. Ifyou could smooth out that turn, it might give you better breathing at high RPMs. Just a thought. I've had ideas of a ram air style set up using a hood scoop, but who knows if it would really work.

Check the electric fan to make sure it isn't jammed. It comes on automatically with the A/C, so this is the only high load thing I can think of.

Another odity is the rear prop shaft, when you remove it, it spills oil on you. Most other cars hace the stub sticking out of the transfer case, not into it. I suppose it keeps more moving pars oiled and makes it easier to replace the oil seal, but another WHY?

On my 86 EA82 (carbed, I tried the jumper to the coil, and still didn't have ignition.I could crank it with a jumper to the solenoid, but I couldn't get it to fire. The car started fine by tuning the key. This is my base for the jumper approach not working. I don't see how i could have jumped it wrong, I made sure it was on the positive side of the coil. Anywhoo.. I did a search on the stearing lock and found out that you can back out those rivit looking bolts that hold the ignition on to the column by using a chisel and hammer. But you said that it was broken, so thats solved. Just jump it at the switch, its more convienient.