Tahoe Subaru

I can't work on the car where it is. It needs to be towed to my house. The axles seem tight but I will fully inspect them. The noise seems to come from the front diff. I only moved the car 10 feet. that was enough. With the open diff. we were able to spin 1 wheel on the ice slowly without moving the car and my head 1 foot from the transmission. Horrible grinding. slipping, binding, bucking.

that's what I was wondering.. if the trans and front differential could easily be separated.

My friend has an 85 Xt. I think the front diff. is shot. Has grinding noise from diff. area. also the axles lock up. Still moves but bucks and grinds and slips at very slow speed on ice covered road. sounds like ring and pinion mesh problem. anyone have experience changing or repair the front differential? anyone know what years and models may interchange? there is an 87 xt at the wrecking yard. Haven't seen it. any advice on cost and time to replace, He is broke like most of us. Thanks

my manual is the factory also. I guess it wasn't updated. I believe its 43.5 as the crank starts in a valley and end on a tooth at the cam. and 47 as it starts and ends in a valley.

I have a used belt also. (03 2.5) I came up with 47 and 44 (could be 43.5 as the mark is somewhat on the tooth) that's teeth between the marks. starting at the crank mark thats the 307 belt. the impreza takes the 304 belt. I don't know what problems you will run into running the wrong belt.

the impreza and legacy take different belts. I believe yours takes a 304 not the 307. I think they are the same except for tooth profile. my manual says 44 and 40.5

The 03 Baja timing belt I did today. the sprocket has a square.

There is a dot 180 from the key. Put the dot at 12 o'clock. If you have a manual transmission there is a retainer you need to remove to see the line in back. It lines up with a line on the block. Also there are two bolt holes in the gear. they should be at 3 and 9 o'clock. there is also a triangle mark don't use that. remember the crank goes two revolutions to the cams one revolution. the timing can be tricky for the first timer. but. It has to be dead on. or else. http://uncyclopedia.wikia.com/wiki/Or_Else

Where are you getting parts?

I ran across this. I thought I knew every thing about batteries. not. I'm going to wear gloves when I clean the terminals from now on. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead%E2%80%93acid_battery

Subaru's are famous for HG problems. Sometimes they overheat for the normal reasons. leaks. The last 3 cars brought to me for HG's, 2 were water pumps, seems like no one changes them at the first timing belt change. One was a hose at the throttle body. All were overheating which can cause the head gaskets to blow. Just food for thought.

If you buy from grip force make sure you get the Exedy clutch which is OEM and not the grip force brand.

the last 2 I've seen only had 3 bolts. missing one on the bottom

the chart floating on the net is wrong. I have your same car and have changed transmissions. it is a 4.11 ratio. look on opposed forces under train to get the ratio. Also you can jack up 1 rear wheel spin it 1 revolution and count how many times the driveshaft turns. It will be half the 4.11 or just over 2 turns. If it has the 3.9 ratio it will turn just under 2 turns. remember to use a jack stand for safety. that trans number is on the driver side, near top, front of transmission. that number is the same on mine. I replaced with a TY754VCACA

on a 5 speed there is only one fill hole, dipstick. the diff is part of the transmission. transaxle. It takes gear oil. Look in your owners manual. As far as the transmission it has 4.11 final drive. So you need to match that for plug and play. Looks like outback is your best bet. but a gt may have the same 4.11 ratio. http://www.car-part.com/ http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_20/

I've used this site. Nsk, Koyo, Ntn are original equipment. the updated lower right pulley has a lip. same part # from Subaru. http://catalog.importrp.com/resetsession.epc?cookieID=32610RNLW32610VF9K&source=www.importrp.com

you tube has a few. this one show how to line up the marks. but he compresses the tensioner to fast and not vertical like the manual says. the DOHC has four cams to line up. the SOHC has two. how many miles on your motor?

the 99 is the cross over year. 8 bolt block. early years had 4 bolts. if yours has 8 mounting bolts or (4 studs and 4 bolts) engine to transmission. then the starter wont mount to an earlier block. you can do it but you need to thread the transmission at the lower starter mounting bolt hole. Its a pain with the transmission in the car but doable. I would keep your engine and rebuild the heads.

try this it worked on my car. I don't know if this is your problem. but it was on mine. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/why-is-the-power-steering-making-noise-on-my-subaru-outback/

wiki has the wrong specs

I have a 1985-1996 manual. chiltons . the 2.5 specs for head removal and install look the same as my 2000 2.5 manual. The only thing is the cam install is now sohc. there are some torque specs for that as well. So I would say yes, they are the same as the early torque specs.

I did it all myself. except I had a machine shop press the wheel bearing, I might buy a wheel bearing kit from Harbor Freight as I have a bearing going out on another car.

yeah I'll buy you a beer. next time I see you, HA when my BMW shed it's timing belt at 61,000 miles, of a 60,000 mile interval, it broke the cam towers. kinda f----- up ed the head. any way thanks. my girl is happy

Ericem you win the prize Update.. I have the car running. 98,000 miles, 25 miles after Subaru inspected the belt. failed timing belt tensioner, 6 bent valves. leaking head gasket, had subaru conditioner installed in 2004. compression test after hanging a new belt. 0-0-180-120 the 120 cylinder had 2 bent intake valves, the 0's had bent exhausts, the car actually ran on 1 and a half cylinder. but not very well Subaru engine gasket set. Complete timing kit and water pump New Clutch and flywheel New tires Left front wheel bearing Right front inner axle boot

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/ I got my valves from them. they are the same as came from the factory. much cheaper, also check out the timing belt tensioner