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When I did the headgaskets on our outback the part guy told me the gaskets had been changed six times. I don't know how true it that is.

Any parts store should have them. They should have different sizes for different size vehicles. Just ask for a small one. Be very careful when making the connections. Make sure you get the cooler plumbed in the return line from the radiator. Be aware that the mounting system they use can rub a hole in the radiator.

It seems like "EGR" is too short to search on. How about this thread... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8171&page=1

Just about any aftermarket universal tranny cooler will work.

Hard to say. The Phase II block has some improvements, but they probably aren't significant in most cases. It still has the Phase I heads, which will cause you more problems than anything else.

Your car should have a Phase II block with Phase I heads. It is very very unlikely (but not impossible AFAIK) that your car has Phase II heads. Without knowing the source of the oil it is very difficult to estimate the cost to repair. It could be as simple as a valve cover gasket or as complex as a rear main seal.

Thanks for the info. My experience tells me to change everything, but I am a little hesitant to put that much money into the car, as I suspect it may not have more than a year or two left in it at 30k miles a year. I will do it properly though. I guess I don't understand your question.

Glad it went well for you. I removed the brake lines and passed them through the new struts, so I can't comment on cutting the bracket. I marked the alignment of the strut mounts, spring seats, springs, and struts before dissasembly with a paint marker. I think that made it a little easier to get everything back together correctly. I used all of the old nuts but put some medium loctite on them when reassembling. Question: Did you replace the strut mounts? What condition were your old ones in? I am debating whether or not to replace the springs and strut mounts when I do the front struts.

Compared to some of the transverse v6's I have done I think the outback is pretty easy. Much easier from underneath IMHO.

It could be the sensor. Here is my non-scientific test. Tap the front washer button several times quickly when the speedo isn't working. Do they come back on? If so, it is most likely the speedo head IMHO. The behavior you describe does sound like it could be the sensor, perhaps it needs to warm up before it works. I think the sensor is cheaper, you may want to start with that. There is a way to test the sensor signal, but I would have to look it up and I don't have time right now. GOTCHA!!!! You just answered MY rhetorical question!

FWIW, I once drove a 2.8l V6 powered buick several miles to a friends place with one of the plugs missing. Well, it was sort of missing. The threads had broken off in the head, so the porcelin and center electrode were gone. You should have heard it! Phit, Phit, Phit, Phit, Phit, Phit. It was hilarious! It didn't hurt anything thankfully.

I personally don't recommend using gasoline as a solvent. I would go to the parts store and get some solvent or cleaner, let them soak for a while. Make sure you rinse them very well afterward with clean solvent, then pump them up with fresh oil. If they have o-rings make sure you replace them. If you can dissasemble them do so as you will be able to clean them better.

Drive it at highway speeds for a bit to get the fluid good and warm before you start, helps to get more of the old stuff out. Let it drain until the dripping stops. That's good advice about underfilling a little and carefully topping off. It IS extremely stinky stuff, and the smell NEVER comes out of clothes.

It's pretty easy. Basically, disconnect negative battery cable, wait 5-10 minutes for airbag to be safe, lower tilt wheel to lowest position, unscrew trim panel in front of instrument cluster, disconnect connectors going into switches in trim panel, remove trim panel, unscrew instrument panel, unplug connectors going into back of instrument panel, CAREFULLY remove instrument panel and squeeze it between the steering wheel and dash without goofing up the dash a little like I did, remove front bezel of instrument panel, unscrew speedo head from back of instrument panel, reverse to install. This would also be a good time to replace any bulbs in the trim panel or instrument cluster that are blown.

Just for giggles, I should tell you that engine wear is higher with new oil and filter than with used oil and filter. If you like I can post links. Not to mention the fact that the period of low oil pressure following an oil change is probably one of the most pronounced periods of startup wear in an engine's life.

It is special high-temperature, high-pressure line. Go to a parts store and ask for transmission cooler line.

I have asked that question on here a couple of times and nobody seems to know. I think Bendix rebuilds are available for about $45, that is what I am going to do when I need to replace the calipers.

1. Yes, Skip's site lists the newest one AFAIK. 2. I have been using plain 'ole prestone green with no problems. I recently bought a Jeep, and it's factory fill is Zerex G-05. After doing some research on G-05 I am so impressed that I will probably switch the Subaru over to it. It's low-silicate BTW. I have been a bad boy using the high-silicate Prestone in the Subaru. Bad, Bad! I would recommend using Subaru coolant as there really isn't a good no-silicate coolant available OTC AFAIK.

Not true. 87 works fine as long as the engine isn't all carboned up. The compression was increased for the Phase II, so they may like a higher AKI, I don't know. We have seen as high as 31 MPG, with 27-28 pretty consistently on the highway. My wife averages 24 winter, 25 summer mixed driving.

Getting it too hot can damage the seals, so go easy on the torch.

My impression, and this is based totally on observation of our '99, is that the system cycles the compressor to keep the evaporator from freezing.

I think the Haynes manual mentioning TDC can be confusing. The engine doesn't need to be on TDC for #1 in order for things to line back up correctly. You only need to align the mark on the crank sprocket with the mark on the oil pump, and align the marks on the cam sprockets with the marks on the timing covers. It sounds like you did it correctly. This document might help you. http://endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf I would double and triple check before spending money on a different engine.

Did you determine that the timing belt was correct and the valves were trashed?

He is fighting years of WI rust, not the torque of the nut itself. With a breaker bar they come off pretty darn easy when they aren't rusted on.

I think you should offer to them that you will bring a new nut that they can stake back in place. Just have them break the rusty one free and stake a new one in. Them remove it when you get home. You will need two new nuts instead of one but it may be the only way they will touch it.