99obw

Well, I have looked at a little bit of the MS documentation and forums. I am familiar with the processors they use. I looked at the source code and it looks reasonable. Questions: Is MSnS based on the same hardware as MS? Is custom firmware the only difference? What hardware version of MS are you planning on using? What firmware are you planning on using? Do you have any example schematics of a MSnS running a wasted spark ignition? Where would the crank/cam pos sensor(s) connect? Where would the coil/ignitor connect? Do you know of any web pages where it shows how a MSnS is connected to a signal source similar to the crank or cam pos sensors? The more you guys can point me in the right direction the more helpful I can be. There is tons of info at www.msefi.com. Way too much for me to dig through in the time I have.

What kind of pulse train do you need exactly for the MS? Do the pulses have to correspond to TDC of each cylinder? Can you remove the metal tabs on the crank and/or cam sprockets to eliminate the signal(s) you don't need? You might be able to combine them via some custom electronics to get your desired pulse train. I would be happy to contribute ideas and maybe the hardware if an electronic solution is practical. Is MS open source? Can you change the source code to handle the sube signals and recompile and burn? What processor does the MS use? I have always wanted to build a fuel injection system. Please keep us apprised of your progress.

Who wants to drive around in 1st gear, even if there is a foot of snow.

Yes, but not on a sube. I broke several of these parts when my headlight connected with a doe's head at highway speed last october. I spent about $60 at the junkyard on the whole headlight assembly including adjusters and the turn signal assembly. You should give the dealer a call, the price might surprise you, or it may make you choke. Worth a phone call. Plating the steel doesn't really matter after a few years of salt. Stainless, unpainted galvanized, carbon steel, they all corrode terribly when exposed to salt. PS: Love Burlington. Wish I could make it up there more often.

Quite easy. I think I posted the procedure. Let me take a look around and get back to you. EDIT: Take a look here... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18679

I will reiterate that I get consistent reads when hot and level. When the oil is thin all of these symtoms seem to dissapear. YMMV.

AFAIK no modern sube sold in the USA has a center diff lock. Viscous coupler or computer controlled clutch pack. No locking transfer case. I think the VC can be overwhelmed, allowing the front wheels to spin while the rears don't. I haven't seen this on subes, but I know the jeeps with a VC in the transfer case exhibit this behaviour (respective axles swapped) when punished on the trail. These systems may be more different than I am aware of so take this into account. My crappy old toyota tercel with a center diff lock would run circles around our outback with the computer controlled clutch pack. In 12"+ of snow the computer doesn't know what to do, so it cycles power front to rear constantly. I wish subes had a TC with some options for power transmission, like FWD, AWD via VC, 4H (locked) and 4L. It would be cool if they sold a version of the 4EAT with the VC as well.

CRV, RAV-4, obviously I can't keep them straight. I'll shut up now.

Doh! Thanks, I was thinking of the RAV-4, which of course is a honda, not a toyota. Sorry to insult toyotas like that.

What is the nature of the signal that the navigation system desires?

There are many, many ways of transferring power to the wheels: FWD: Front wheel drive, open or limited slip differential. Good on-road, good in the snow, bad off road. RWD: Rear wheel drive, open or limited slip differential. Ok on-road, sucks in the snow, sucks off-road. Full Time 4WD: Open center differential, open or limited slip front and rear differentials. Good on-road, good in the snow, ok off road. Example: jeep 242 selec-trac. 4WD: Locked center differential, open or limited slip front and rear differentials. Bad on-road, great in the snow as long as the road is mostly covered, great off road. Example: jeep 231 command-trac, older subes, the '86 toyota tercel I had. Real AWD: These systems basically modulate the center differential torque transfer ratio in some way, whether it be viscous coupler or computer controlled. These systems apply power to the front and rear differentials all of the time. Great on-road, great in the snow as long as it isn't too bad, ok off road. Example: subaru AWD, jeep 249 quadra-trac, audi quattro. Fake AWD: I hate the fact that other auto makers call their part time AWD systems AWD. These systems don't put power to the (other) wheels until a slip is detected (too late IMHO). These are the AWD wannabees. I am pretty sure that the toyota real-time 4wd and gm versatrak are this kind of system. To me the ultimate off-road setup is one with a locking center diff and locking or limited slip front and rear differentials. An example of a vehicle with this is the jeep rubicon. To me the ultimate on-road setup is one with limited slip rear differential and viscous coupler center diff, this setup is found on some of the MT subies. As far as a compromise between the two, have to vote for the 242 selec-trac with it's full-time 4wd mode and locked in part-time mode.

No sight glass on an R134 system. Is the compressor coming on? Most likely your refrigerant has leaked out and the pressure switch is keeping the compressor off.

Depending on what you are trying to do, the OBDII system may be usefull. It's really hard to hold meter probes on the computer pins while driving. Of course you could attach some wires to the harness and run them to your meter. You could use a scan tool, custom electronics, or a device such as the car chip to get the speed data off of the car's network. Are you trying to diagnose a speed sensor or are you doing something else?

Hey, another board member with a subaru and a cherokee. :cool: You may want to take a look at the air filter which could be starving the engine for air. How old is the fuel filter? If you really think it's the cat, you could measure the backpressure in front of the cat with a pressure gauge via the O2 sensor bung.

The service intervals that NOMAD327 posted seem to differ a bit from what's in my manual, so I will just add that you should follow the severe service interval for service items as dictated by your owner's manual. Very few people qualify for the normal service interval, so I would err on the side of caution and use severe service. The outback is my wife's car. She drives 30k a year. I do the following annually: Coolant Tranny fluid and filter Front and rear diffs (75w-90 synthetic) Brake fluid PS fluid if I remember PCV valve I change the air filter every 15k which is the severe service interval for the outback. We live on a dirt road. I think 30k is the normal service interval. I would not go beyond 30k. The brake pad guides should be lubricated about every 15k. I recommend using only OEM parts. I tried a parts store air filter in the outback and it would not fit. Learned my lesson. To depressurize the fuel system, remove the fuel pump fuse and start the car. I offer this not as a guide to car maintanence, as I am completely insane regarding car maintanence, but as a point of reference.

You will have to fool the computer to keep the MIL off, as the computer is expecting a difference in O2 concentration before and after the cat.

I assume you mean the oil pressure light. This light doesn't mean that the oil is low per se, it means that the engine has inadequate oil pressure. That is extremely bad for the engine. I like to keep the level near full, but at the very least never let it get so low that you can't see it on the dipstick. This kind of abuse over a period of time could contribute to engine damage and wear that will increase oil consumption. Also, oil change interval, oil type, viscosity, driving style? Changing the PCV valve is good advice.

Exactly what I was thinking.

Your car doesn't have a transfer case. It has a 4EAT transmission with the front differential integrated and a driveshaft out the rear. If you are having serious trouble replacing the entire transmission is probably the best approach.

Cool!!! I seem to remember Frag did a similar modification. Any insights as to part number?

PCV valve neglect contributes to oil leaks. They are cheap, I have been replacing ours once a year, or about every 30k miles. I only wish my Jeep had a PCV valve that was so easy to replace. Subarus are such a joy to work on.

The listed capacity includes the torque converter, cooler lines, cooler, etc. You won't get it all out. The best way IMHO to flush a tranny is to disconnect the tranny cooler RETURN line at the tranny, connect a hose and put the end in a jug, then run the engine until a quart or two comes out, shut off the engine, empty the jug, replace the tranny fluid with the same amount of new that was in the jug, repeat until you have used at least the system capacity of new fluid. Not perfect but way better than just draining the pan and refilling.

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/FrontSuspenInfo.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/FrontInfo.pdf Slightly different files, say the same thing. Worth a shot. Cheap fix if it works. Is it that cold where you are? Buurrrrrr!!! Won't be that cold here for about three months or more.

Yep, a scanner capable of reading Subaru should give you cross counts AFAIK, a relative indication of O2 sensor health. For what it costs to drive to Sayre PA or Victor NY and pay a diagnosis fee you could buy two universal replacements.

I have read about a technique on the internet involving a propane torch and a voltmeter. I wouldn't trust it as it seems prone to user error. If you are interested I can google it and post a link. If I were you I would buy a universal replacement and do a little soldering. I am pretty sure the rear sensor is a three wire. If you need a hand swing up to Nunda tomorrow afternoon.