99obw

Thanks for the comments. I agree that snow tires compromise several other factors for snow and ice perfomance. What I really hate are the soft sidewalls and the mushy handling. I drive very cautiously so it isn't an issue for me. Most people I have talked to about this are from my local area, and yes, we got lot's of snow and ice November through April. My biggest concern is ice. In my experience unless a tire has a winter compound and is adequately siped(like a blizzak), or has studs, they are virtually useless on ice, regardless of tread pattern. Case in point, guy at work used to be the typical all-season user, "I never have any trouble with my tires, always work fine, don't know why anyone needs snow tires, what a waste of money". Wouldn't you know it he spun out and put his car in the ditch a couple of weeks later, then went out and bought four new snow tires. Now he is a die-hard snow tire user. Part of my drive into work this morning was pretty icy, studded snows on my XJ performed flawlessly. My wife saw several accidents on the way to work this morning, blizzaks performed flawlessy on the outback. My experience has shown, at least for my region's winter conditions and terrain, tires are about 10 times more beneficial than AWD or 4WD. Regarding cheap tires, I have to disagree. The yokohama summer tires we are using on the outback now have great traction and have worn as well or better than the two sets of michelins we have run, at half the price. '97, my understanding is that the primary concern with older tires is UV exposure, that's why you see the low-use RVs and such with tire covers. My guess is you should be fine. You might take them on a local drive when the temp is high to do a bit of a "burn in". Maybe you could give tirerack a call and talk to one of their techs, they are pretty knowledgable. You could probably get your money back easily if you decide to sell them.

Cookie, I think it's calledl an oil separator plate. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze730qe/images/22-rear_main_and_oil_separator.jpg Thanks skip.

I would rule out carbon deposits first before looking at more expensive causes. A tank of 93 octane and some Techron might be a good start.

Our outback uses some oil, and I have checked it to find none on the dipstick. My wife thinks oil and air are optional. Can't hurt to replace the PCV though, I typically replace them about every 30k as part of my routine maintanence schedule.

Yes, it's 105k in the US for the EJ25. I would have it done if you plan on keeping the car. I did this myself at 120k or so and they weren't that bad yet, so I would think you are probably still safe. Do you mean a knock as in bearing knock or knock as in preignition or pinging? If you are experiencing pinging I recommend seafoam then a regimen of Fuel Power.

Unfortunately I am quite familiar with that kind of heavy snow fall. It's very common here until Lake Erie freezes over. Other regions adjacent to the great lakes aren't as lucky, as their lakes are too deep to freeze over, so the lake effect snow machine runs all winter long. I can remember when I worked in Elma NY, parking the car at 8:00 AM and having over a foot of snow on the car at lunch time. That was the day I was stopped behind a semi because they had closed the road, I looked in my rear view only to see a huge box truck sliding toward me at 45° from the direction it should have been pointed. It certainly is the other drivers that are the scary part of winter driving, especially when equipped with a proper vehicle with proper tires.

I think that's a very true statement. I can't remember ever talking to someone that had used a good snow tire that said "Yea, they were ok, but nothing special, so I went back to all-seasons". Everyone I talk to is a snow tire user for life once they have driven on them. Nothing compares to studs on ice, too bad they were removed, though most people can't stand the noise. I love studded snows. If the rubber compound is anything like blizzaks you may want to consider removing them during long warm periods or they won't last long. I think that is a fantastic deal, I would go for it. If you are paying $40 for mount, balance, and valve stems that's a great deal, cheapest I have found locally is $53 at walmart. These tires should be a huge improvement over almost any all-season tire in the snow.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/matchingtires.jsp

There is a mathematical fact that cannot be changed, the average consumer spends more on the warranty than they file in repair claims, or the warranty companies would go out of business.

http://cobbtuning.com/legacy/

I recently did this service on our '99. I have changed the filter and fluid every 30-50k since new. When I was done I decided to cut open the AT filter to see how it was constructed and how dirty it was after ~30k miles. This filter is nothing like any oil filter I have ever cut open. It has a "paper" element just like a regular oil filter, but there is also an unusual cylidrical screen in the center of the filter. It was virtually spotless. I would NOT substitute another part for this filter. If you feel it is necessary to change it pay the $$$ for the OEM part. I would definately change the filter after the first 30k, as most of the break-in has already occurred and the filter will likely have some stuff in it. Keep in mind that my wife drives mostly highway miles and does no towing, so filters in cars with more severe service may accumulate contaminants much more quickly. I think I may stretch the interval out a bit based on seeing how clean the filter was, maybe every 2 years or 60k. For changing brake fluid I like to use the turkey baster to get most of the fluid out of the master cylinder, refill, then bleed the brakes until all bleeders have clean fluid coming out of them.

Try www.alldata.com

On the Phase I 2.2 I have used a chain wrench to hold the cam sprockets. It's pretty tough to do without damaging the rear cover, I don't think I could have done it without help. The way to do it is to first cut a piece of the old timing belt equal in length to the circumference of the sprocket. Place it over the sprocket to protect it from the chain. Then carefully use the chain wrench to hold the sprocket still. Depending on your chain wrench you may not be able to move the wrench at all without breaking the cover. You can buy a generic cam sprocket holding tool for about $20 or $30. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21525 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9651 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12100

The heads are easy. Look at the timing cover, on a Phase II you will see that it has two big sprockets underneath, the Phase I has only one. As far as the block goes, IIRC if you look underneath the power steering pump there are two ridges cast into the block, two ridges for a Phase I and one ridge for a Phase II.

Unrelated and sealed off. I change ours every year (30k) with Mobil 1 75w-90.

Sorry, I read your post today and meant to post but got sidetracked. I would look at www.libertysubaru.com for the part numbers. Then go to www.1stsubaruparts.com for the lowest price. For bearings make sure that you get the seals to go with them.

The legacy got the 2.5 in '00, 2.2 up until then. Forester got the Phase II 2.5 in '99 like cookie said. I think the Phase II had a lot of head gasket problems until about '02 or so. I think the impreza got the 2.5 in all cars in '02. The outback had the Phase I 2.5 through '99, then the Phase II. '99 is a crossover year. Our '99 has a Phase II block with Phase I heads. It has been reported that some outbacks in '99 got the complete Phase II, but I haven't seen it.

Yep, that's how I do it. Not messy if you are careful. Pulling the pan seems to be most of the mess associated with tranny service, and since the filter is external I have never pulled the pan on our outback.

I just did this a couple of nights ago and I got about 5.5 quarts out on ramps. I just changed the filter and refilled it, I need to go back and flush it when I get a chance. Flushing isn't messy if you are careful.

Be very cautious with chains on the outbacks as the strut spring cones are very close. I think subaru discourages chain use. YMMV

At 100 YOA I don't recommend doing your own car work. Bearings can be done many ways. You can remove the knuckle and have the old bearings pressed out and new ones in at a shop. You can use a hub-tamer. Some folks use a hammer and punch. You might be able to get away with even more primitive tools. The pros usually use a press or hub tamer like approach, sometimes a slide hammer for hub removal. I bought a hub tamer and it's great, but probably not a good short term investment at $200+. I don't know the specifics of getting the axles out of the transmission on your car, but it usually isn't too difficult, and the worst part will already be done as part of doing the bearings. You may need a small axle remover to get the axle out of the hub, I don't know for sure. I haven't replaced the axles yet on our outback. www.1stsubaruparts.com should be able to help you with the parts. I strongly recommend an FSM before tearing into it. When I was in college I winged it on a wheel bearing and both axles in my toyota with little trouble, it's not too bad, you should be able to do it with a manual. I took the knuckle off for the bearing and it took me forever. Edit: Duh, I just noticed you drive a brat. You will get much more detailed information over on the old-gen forum.

Phase I head gasket problems happening only to neglected engines is BS, and saying so amounts to making excuses for Subaru and their screwup. If I were you I wouldn't buy a Phase I unless you know how to and enjoy turning wrenches. I meet both of those criteria and wouldn't buy another one unless someone practically gave it to me. Get a 2.2 or the Phase II 2.5 and use the coolant additive.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13783

I would subtract what the worse-case scenario repairs will cost from the asking price and offer him that. When he says no offer to pay him what he wants if he has it repaired at the shop of your choosing. If he says no walk away.

ROFL!!! Then the evil pointy-haired boss will move you to the basement and take your stapler away. Wait, I think I'm getting this mixed up. Eventually sure it will settle again but if you are pumping while it's all mixed up you might get some in your tank.