99obw

Well, if you're in there you might also consider the thermostat and gasket, radiator cap, PCV valve, valve cover gaskets, valve cover bolt seals, accessory belts, dipstick o-ring, and oil filler o-ring. I like to replace radiator hoses around 120k miles. In case you didn't know, keep in mind that the 2.2 has two o-rings as well as two traditional garter spring seals for the cams. I have an invoice from when we did my friend's '97 2.2 about a year ago. If I can find it I will post the whole list with part numbers.

That was the first thing I found. Given enough time I could probably find an affordable relay. If folks are seriously interested let me know and I will look. I can ask the component engineer at work, he will know who makes them. I would love to "intervalize" the rear wipers in both vehicles, so this thread has further sparked my curiosity in the area of adjustable timer relays.

It would be pretty easy to do with something like this... http://www.electrodepot.com/a4123.htm You need a different time interval and hopefully a cheaper price, but you get the idea. You may want a more robust secondary relay to actually drive the heater(s). Of course, there are a million other ways to do it as well. EDIT: You would also need two momentary pushbuttons, one for stop and one for start.

I'll second that!

IIRC mine were in so tight that I couldn't easily get them out, so I left them alone. The sealant used at the factory seems really good. No leaks so far.

I don't know for certain, but perhaps the dye used is sensitive to heat. I know, sounds rediculous for a dye used in antifreeze.

It should be worth a try. I would use the epoxy putty. Rough up the surface first with some rough sandpaper. Clean it off, then form the repair with the putty. Should work fine.

You must be referring to my wife. Oil in the engine, air in the tires? What do you mean?! LOL

Generally the hub does not need to be replaced. I change both sides because when I used to do one side at a time it seemed like the other side would start making noise within 6 months. You don't have to do them both, and I probably wouldn't if I was paying someone to do it. $350 per side is on the high side of normal for this job from what I know. Our '99 outback had a rear strut fail at about 140k miles. The strut seized solid, then the spring cone collapsed and the strut rubbed a groove in the tire. I think that the seals had gone, and the thing filled with water, which froze. The fronts are still kicking at 170k miles. If I were you and the rust isn't too bad I would probably leave them alone for now.

For the outback I bought four used blizzaks, four steel wheels, and four hubcaps from a board member and I have had great luck with them. I see no reason not to buy used tires as long as they are all the same tire with adequately similar circumference. In the spring I will probably be buying OEM takeoff alloy wheels and tires for the XJ.

Synthetic oils are much better suited for extended use for several reasons. Synthetic oils generally have a higher TBN (total base number, a measure of reserve alkalinity) than conventional oils, giving better resistance to acidic contamination from combustion. Synthetic oils generally have better additive packages, allowing the engine to be cleaner and contaminates to be better suspended. Synthetic base oils have a higher VI (viscosity index, a measure of the change in viscosity with respect to temperature), meaning little or no VII (viscosity index improver, the polymers in oil that break down and cause sludge) is needed to give the desired low and high temperature performance. Cold temperature performance was already mentioned, but consider that polyalphaolefin, the base oil in Mobil 1 and Amsoil, is used as a additive in conventional oils to improve the cold temperature characteristics. While conventional oils continue to improve, nothing compares to a group IV synthetic IMHO, at least for now.

Make sure you get both surfaces free of dirt, sealant, etc, then wipe clean with acetone. I like to apply the sealant to the part that was removed, i.e. pump, pan, etc. I like to let the sealant set on the part for about 15 minutes before assembly. Be very careful not to use too much sealant, generally a 1/8" bead is adequate, making sure to encircle any bolt holes. If the mating surface is wider than about 1/2" I like to put a bead about 1/4" in from each edge.

If you want to prime remove the fuel pump fuse. I just fill the oil filter fully and start the engine without priming.

Seeing how the old pump never leaked, and the new pump has never leaked, how could using sealant improve anything? I have never used gasket remover, so I really don't know, but in general you want things as clean as possible before assembly. I like to clean things with brake cleaner or acetone.

Of course we all realize that the salesmen are trying to make a living, aren't we all? We as consumers need to make the most informed and prudent decision possible, regardless of the resulting commission for the salesman. The dealer makes a handsome profit even when a car is sold at invoice, it just happens that they aren't sharing much of it with the salesmen, which is not the consumers' problem. Slightly OT: I called around looking for '01 Cherokees and found one I wanted to test drive. When I got to the dealer I found out that the guy I had talked to on the phone was actually someone I used to work with and he could be described as a distant friend. When push came to shove throughout the deal I didn't relent because of who he was, I stayed my course and got a decent deal and got all of the things I wanted fixed taken care of. Should I have lined his pockets with warranty money because of who he was? No! Does that make me an ahole? Maybe, but no more than it makes him one for trying to sell me the warranty in the first place.

Jake, I live not far from you and have a heated garage. PM me if you want to stop by this weekend and take a look. I should be home all weekend. PS: My luck with VBS has been about the same, so I do almost everything myself now. A good friend of mine has had good luck with Piehler in Rochester.

We have about 50k miles on that water pump and not a drop has leaked, so I would not use a sealant. It comes from the factory with only the metal gasket and no sealant, so that's how I put it back together. I have used both the anerobic and ultra-black on suby oil pumps, never a leak with either. Ultra-gray should be even better.

I reused mine with no troubles, but if the heads were off before and this is the second time I would replace them just to be safe.

I agree with MT, you should be able to get something in the low 100k mile range with a little rust and no major issues for $1500.

Thanks, now I don't feel like an overzealous maintenance lunatic, even though I admittedly am one. When I walked into sears I told him what grade of battery I wanted and what group number I wanted. He looked at me like I was from another planet. He insisted on looking it up, only to have trouble finding it. Finally after about ten minutes he agreed that I knew what I was talking about. People in this type of job don't seem to know how to treat an informed customer. I get the same looks from the guys at the Subaru dealer when I start asking them hard questions. Thanks to the USMB I have enough information to both make informed decisions and keep these guys on their toes.

I don't know for certain on your car, but on our outback it's located on the left side just above the front corner of the tranny pan.

I replaced the OEM battery last year at the beginning of it's 5th winter. It gave me a bit of a reluctant start one cold morning and that was it. I went to Sears and bought a replacement because Sears is convenient. I didn't want to risk some random person trying to jump the car and goofing something up, as my wife doesn't know how to do it.

I have found that a new belt usually needs to be retightened at least once. You need to get it tight enough that is doesn't squeal when it's first installed, then come back in 500 miles or so and check it.

I feel your pain, I have a terrible time diagnosing suspension clunks, unless the failure is obvious.

Could also be the sway bar bushings or links. Our '99 is nearing 170k miles, and the front end is still as tight as when it was new. The struts are getting a little "floaty", but it still drives great. I don't think the problem you are experiencing is common. We live on a dirt road that often has holes that will eat your car. To me the suspension and drivetrain are the most impressive things about these cars.