99obw

The rear O2 sensor monitors catalyst efficiency.

Make sure the location the car is parked when you check it is perfectly level. Our driveway is slightly sloped where the cars are parked and it makes an accurate read impossible. I find it easiest when the car is fully warmed up, when cold it seems to do goofy things on the dipstick.

They aren't Subaru struts, they are KYB.

I replaced struts, springs, and strut mounts on both sides myself at that time, my $. I don't expect Subaru to fix problems at 135k miles. Maybe I should have tried to get them to fix it, but probably not worth my time. Our outback has seen TONS of salt. The OEM KYBs don't seem to be painted very well, though it seems that good quality paint is a thing of the past on so many things.

Yes, the left rear strut on our '99 outback did that at about 135k miles. I noticed it because of the groove it left in the tire.

FWIW, I had this code recently, replaced the knock sensor, no more MIL.

I seem to remember the factory sensor was a bosch on our outback. I wouldn't be afraid to use a bosch. You can probably get an OEM sensor from www.1stsubaruparts.com a little cheaper than $126.95.

I just about break even using Amsoil oil and filters out to 7500 miles vs. using Pennzoil and Napa Gold filters every 3000 miles. Lets say over a 15k miles span. Costs are estimated but should be pretty close. Amsoil Oil 5 qts x $4.50 x 2 oil changes = $45.00 Filter $8.50 x 2 oil changes = $17.00 Total = $62.00 Pennzoil Oil 5 qts x $1.20 x 5 oil changes = $30.00 Filter $5.00 x 5 oil changes = $25.00 Total = $55.00 Add in my time savings (3 fewer oil changes) and even at minimum wage it's a financial no-brainer. That's why I chose 7500 mile intervals, I feel it's safe and is pretty close to break even. I am not even counting the slight fuel economy benefit.

It should be fine, but I would first make sure you have fresh tranny fluid and filter and an auxilary tranny cooler. A search should yield good information.

You should be able to at least get a free list of them here: www.alldata.com An alldata subscription is $25 a year. That would let you read the details.

I have posted quite a bit on here about it. Search for speedometer and username 99obw.

Good writeup. Good bleeding advice. Next time I change the coolant (it's due) I will pull up this thread and give your technique a try. After the flush I like to purge as much of the tap water out of the system as possible using distilled water. Some folks may be able to use their tap water, but for me the minerals would be fatal. Then get as much of the distilled water out of the system as possible by removing the lower hose and opening the drain(s). Close the drain(s), then add half of the system capacity with full strength anti-freeze to result in a 50/50 mix. Then top off with distilled water. Adding premix coolant to a system that still has some water in it will result in a weak mixture. I have run 66/33 mixtures, but the extra anti-freeze just reduces the heat carrying capacity of the coolant, so I have gone back to 50/50. It only got down to -15°F or so here last winter so I am still safe.

www.allpar.com

The supertech filters are made by champion labs AFAIK (ac delco, bosch, stp, mobil1). They are probably a better filter than fram. I have used them in the past and never had a problem. If you can find a motorcraft filter (purolator) that fits your sube they are a much better filter IMO for only about a dollar more. You may want to look over at www.bobistheoilguy.com for more info about supertech oil. I don't know anything about it. I will throw in my opinion on relatively inexpensive oil and filter for your sube, pennzoil and napa gold or purolator.

1mm is .0394". 1.1mm is .04334"

I have to chime in here on the oil leak issue. I think there is some truth to oil cleaning gunk and starting leaks. I have run many used cars in the 100k-120k mile range out to 200k miles. I drive a lot and when running dino I change the oil every 3k-4k miles. I have found that most of the cars I do this to start to leak DINO oil after about 6 months. The reason is because the seals were plugged with crap from the previous owners neglect, and the detergents in the DINO oil will clean it out and start leaks. I have had this happen to nearly every cheap used car I have ever owned for any length of time. This has all been with Pennzoil. Any oil that is changed regularly in a neglected used car will probably start leaks IMHO. If it leaks replace the seals. Synthetic oil will clean faster so it may cause symptoms to appear more quickly. I stick by my recommendation of the Rotella 5w-40 for a few reasons. It's a cheap group III, around $3 a quart. Most group III's are over-priced in the $4.50 a quart range. It's readily available at Walmart. It has great start-up flow with the 5w rating and a 150k mile old engine will probably like a 40 weight. The HDEO additive package combined with the group III base oil will probably keep the engine nearly as clean as a group IV (Amsoil, Mobil 1). Regardless of what oil you choose you want to change it often because it will be cleaning out the previous owners crap. Slightly OT.... Amsoil is great stuff. The outback has been happy on a diet of 5w-30 ASL and 10w-30 ATM since about 120k miles. Mobil 1 before that, Pennzoil before that. After the current Auto-RX rinse cycle is done I am going to be switching it to Amsoil AFL 5w-40 year round. The Jeep is running the AFL right now and loves it, I might try the 5w-30 HDD in that this winter. Happy oiling!

I'd probably use the 5w-40 Rotella HDEO. It's a group III just like the Valvoline you might use and it has a nice additive package as it's a diesel oil (gas rated too).

Here is one: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/LIS-36880.html I have no idea if it will work. I found the tool unnecessary.

I live on a dirt road, and it's amazing how far up the sidewall the dirt gets from the tire flexing during driving.

My wife has been driving the outback for over 5 years now and no luck so far. My wife was shocked when I told her that I knew that subarus were considered lesbian cars. She said someone at work was picking on her.

The belt guide is only for manual transmission cars, to keep the belt from jumping if the engine is turned backwards via the tranny. That is how an EJ25 typically sounds once it has a few miles on it. If it doesn't quiet down after it warms up you may want to look at the timing belt tensioner. That throttle cable is hilarious! That is one serious shoe-horn job!!! Good work!

And once the bearing spins the oil supply to that bearing is shut off. If the dealer is claiming chrome in the oil ask for the used oil analysis (UOA) with the data to back up his claim. Seeing "chrome" particles is BS IMO. They are probaby seeing aluminum. The metals commonly tested in UOA are: Aluminum Chromium Iron Copper Lead Tin Molybdenum Nickel Manganese Silver Titanium Potassium Boron Silicon Sodium Calcium Magnesium Phosphorus Zinc Barium

A friend of mine is in the auto auction business, and he sees a lot of Gen 1 outbacks at auction with blown headgaskets. $8000 is more than I would pay for that car, though I don't know what the book value is. Caveat Emptor

Differentials are the one place where synthetics are arguably superior to conventional lubricants IMHO. The improved viscosity index may save enough fuel to offset the increased cost over the life of the lubricant, not to mention the better durability of the synthetic. I would use a 75w-90 rather than a 80w-90. I have been using Mobil 1 75w-90 but will probably switch to Amsoil at some point. FWIW we are currently seeing higher than EPA highway MPG in the outback during mixed (80/20) driving, and I attribute that in part to use of synthetic lubricants. Synthetic lubricants have a higher viscosity index, meaning they thicken less when they are not at normal operating temperature. This is where the fuel savings from using a synthetic comes from IMO, not because they are "slipperyer".

The A/C compressor is used during defrost mode to dehumidify the air. Your compressor may be going or you may be low on compressor oil.