Sioux-baru

the kids say the symptoms start after it warms up. the previous owner related that the engine was rebuilt around 250k. due to oil leak / heads. they didnt say when any O2 sensor, plugs or other items were changed out, but I chnged out plugs and filters when i got it. maybe when putitng back together, they messed up the vac lines? I still cant explain the gas smell in the cabin/ through the vents when the car is running.

Bought a 2000 legacy outback, w/ ovr 300k on it, last fall, ran good for about a month, then the problems started... 1.The MPG started to go down hill. Excess fuel consumption, can smell fuel/ exhaust inside the cabin. unburned fuel? 2.Hold the gas pedal steady and it surges then drops. dont drive it on the interstate as it cant keep the highway speeds due to the surges. I almost want to go out and shoot this car cause i haven't figured it out yet. HELP......

there is a 03 subie for sale, with a head gasket leaking oil at 85,000 miles, (EJ 25) the owner is asking $3K for it, would it be worth or less?? its been keyed and fog light knocked out. also sounds like the starter may be going out on it when starting , real rough screeching when starting. advice?

anyone know a good source/ price/brand for a rebuild kit for a hitachi carb off a EA81? or even a pulled, readily available carb? engine is running rich and mileage has dropped to ~15mpg about as bad as my full size truck. would like to do a conversion but, dont have the money to do weber conversion. so a carb rebuild will have to do for now. thanks, Ken kasnospam (at) yahoo

Saw a '06 Baja at the Bellevue,NE dealership yesterday and inquired if it was for sale. Dealer said they took it on a trade and discovered it had severe engine problems, not the ordinary engine knock. Said it was going to auction on Monday 14 march. too bad,

yesturday after class, I was on my way home and not more than a block away from college, going into 2nd as the clutch pedal went down, I heard a snap and the pedal hit the floor. So there I am, thinking what the H*** just happened??. I have momentum and get the car into the nearest parking lot and start looking under the dash and hood. didnt get a good look at it, those little key lights dont give enough light. but feeling around, the cable slides back and forth under the dash at the top of the pedal. Sitting there thinking whether if I should push or tow it home and as I shift in/out of gear( the engine is off) realizing that I can start this thing in 1st gear and get going and creep home in 1st. one problem- there is 10 lights and 2 stops(rolled thru both) signs to get this car home. (this is the least number of lights and stops signs route of 5 miles) shifting up is easy, its coming down thats hard. You know your a subie owner if: you can shift through all the gears without grinding gears and no clutch. Theres another thread for that in here somewhere. I didnt make it through light #4. bump start again. I know its hard on the starter, but it has a warranty. I ordered a new cable from my fav parts store, the clerk is getting to know me, I just mention "subaru", that will be here tomorrow. Q: is it difficult to install a cable?

Just a precaution, DONT breathe the white smoke from burning antifreeze. its just as bad as drinking the stuff. except it gets into your lungs and can cause all sorts of health probs later on.

Experience hear talking, Block heater, battery blanket and oil pan heater. The 3 things you need if you live in the Northern Plains. Nothing worse than going out in the morning when its -30F, (Still dark out) and turn the key and nothing. Go back in and warm up for 30 minutes, go back outside and then try to find another vehicle that will even start other than "ol trusty" and when you get it cranking, its cranks awfully slow because the oil is like molasses.( yes there is 5w-30 in the oil pan) and when it does fire up, the oil pressure doesnt even register on the gauge for a minute or two. Then, it sounds like its going to explode or die as it idles loppily along., (is that a word, loppily?) then it takes 15 minutes to bring everything up to operating temps. Then drive it over to give ol trusty a jump to bring it to life. By the time you get ol trusty running, its mid morning, what good is it to go where you needed to go hours ago? Yes there has been days where I checked the antifreeze and it was slush, and the oil so thick from the cold it wouldnt even drain if I removed the drain plug. (did it just to see if it would.)

My grandpa had a Rambler, and boy could it run... He past away, so im wondering if my step brother got it?

got a pic of it to post? Wyoming is only a state away... I need to find my spouse a subie instead of that gas guzzling minivan

Personally, it depends on the temperature. I wait until the oil pressure gauge climbs out of the bottom of the gauge and at max press before I take off. 35F+ 30sec. 25-35F 2-3 minutes, 15-25F 3-5 min 0-15F 5-8 min or when warm air is being blown out of the vents. below 0F, 5-10 min, but start slowly to get the GL5 tranny fluid moving.

--Either I wait until it warms up a bit more or go to the auto hobby shop to do a more through circuit trace to find the fault. --Initial find, reaching under the dash, I found a a small round relay? with a rectangular plug under the dash, it gives and audible click and I can feel it click when I put a finger on it and turn the key. This maybe the faulty item, however getting it out is going to be a small challange. -- As for now, I bypassed the whole ignition circuit, and run a piece of extention cord wire from the battery to the solenoid when I need to. --I think I am going to install a remote button inside for convenience. too cold out right now. K

Now it doesnt turn over at all no matter how many times I turn the key... With the key in the ON position, and jumping the POS to the solenoid, should initiate the starter and turn the engine over. Unless I can find and repair the fault. has anyone done this sort of bypass before? results? cautions? safety issues? At least I dont have to do this in the morning, I can roll and bump start it. its after work I have to worry about and have been lucky the past few days...

About the starter, its new, a month old. the original died 3 months after I got the car, the replacement fried itself after 4 months... when I turn the key, there is a "click" noise from the dash, but nothing under the hood until IT wants to engage. You mentioned relay, Does it have a starter relay hidden somewhere I haven't found, is it possible its faulty? I'll check out the battery cables, replace if necessary and maybe go with a segment of HD jumper cables I got laying about.(the clamps gone bad, but the wire is good. cheap fix) Good thing is, the starter is right on top so hot wiring the solenoid to start should be easy. e-brake on, out of gear, ignition on, and a set of jumper cables.. good thing I live and park on a hill. Been popping the clutch lately if im running late for work... thanks.

I put some 80k mile rated Michelins, back when i had my DL wagon, they were some hard rubber tires... outlasted the car..

ok, here it is. '86 GL HB, EA81 1.8L non-turbo, DRMT/AC, It doesnt matter what the outside temp is, hot engine or cold, but I turn the key the run position and all the dash lights come on, continue to the start position and nothing, turn off and back on a few times and it may fire or not, come back five minutes later and it'll fire right off. OR I can turn the key one time and it fires right up, whats going on here? I suspect the ignition switch is going bad. Am I on the right track? I dont beleive there is a neutral safety switch, as it will turn over even if in gear. I thought it might be a bad battery, but if it was, Would it not have fired up at -01F overnight? I had the battery and stock alternator checked and nothing wrong with them. output @ 1000rpm, 13V/45A. I am considering the Alt upgrade as GD did. If it is a switch going bad, those are hard to find a matching ignition switch. I am thinking about installing a remote starter switch?, if so, where do I start, which wires would I need to reroute? thanks Ken in 68113

Is there anybody who has some time off ( afternoon- i'm guessing/ allotting at least 4hrs to do this, i work a rotating shift with variable days off) to assist in swapping out the front axles on a 86 gl hatch? (68123, NE) I went through a couple of manuals i have and they don't give detail enough to pull the axle. So that is why I am asking for help from those individuals that have done this and experience to do this efficiently. WHY: The CV boot tore and right now i got it patched with, you guessed it, duct tape and still holding with what grease is left. My preliminary attempt to replace the axle got me to the point of tire removal, 36mm nut off, and 90 minutes to remove the castle nut off the lower control arm, ( it looked like part of the right sequence to remove the axle because it would release the wheel) the cotter pin was jammed ( so old there was nothing left to pull it out. I broke 2 drill bits and a punch trying to remove it. Also, I discovered I need to replace the brake pads, but trying to figure out to remove the caliper from the assembly. Any suggestions to help replace it or any takers to assist? I have the Base auto hobby shop available to do this work. thanks Ken kasnospam AT yahoo DOT com

I checked, bolts are tight, no gaps and no exhaust leak. But it seems that its occurring more and more now even after it has gone to operating temps. more specifically during the gear shifting phase. I rechecked the firing sequence, and plugs and wires, aside a bit of wear on the wires, nothing appears out of ordinary. I have thought it may be a timing issue, but adjusting it all the way to 0* BTDC isnt helping. still bf'ing on a 10 mile test drive. After more reading and research, Would this be a weak exhaust valve spring floating and allowing the resulting spark/explosion out the tailpipe?

found this looking for something else. these guys should be (*******) for doing this to that poor subie. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uT5v8UbEFKk&feature=related

Man, I love Subarus. Subaru ATV: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qe_mS...feature=related Fastest Brat Down under: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enMDC...feature=related Subaru Jumps: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDi0M...feature=related Subaru Obstacle course: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFF2b...feature=related notice the guy, 2nd time through the hangar, working on a tire Subaru SnoCat:

This really sucks... I can't make it, I just got the work schedule for June and my supervisor has me working 10-14th. All the perks of a military rotating shift.

honest, i didnt even look at the date, i just saw the post and replied. besides i was already on a CB kick yesterday. seeing if i can get that 102 whip bumper mounted without interfering with the hatch. zombie thread, maybe it is time to clean up some of these really old posts, so somebody like me cant find them.

This is definately off road use , powered by EJ22 must be a subaru fan. http://www.ecimainstreet.com/images/aviation/copter.htm

OK, i have had experience with CB radio and antenna for 25yrs now and here is a bit of what i learned and what i have. my first radio and ant, I installed a 102" stainless steel whip on my subie wagon, spring base on a extended piece of metal extending from the base of the tail light assembly. ( i need to find that picture and post it here someday) this gave a good ground. Ran the coax to a midland 077 radio, small comparable to the cobra 29 in size. I had the radio and antenna "tweaked" to the car by a local ham. I used it a lot while travel cross country and rx'd and tx'd some "skip" during the last solar max. ie Stationed in Maine, I heard and talked to someone from the mojave desert, no kidding here. (skip, atmospheric or ionospheric conditions allowing the bounce of radio signals across long distance across the earth. anywhere from 60-10,000 miles. depends on radio freq as well.) well the car ended up wreaked and i moved the setup to the next car, a Saturn, lip mounted K40 antenna, then moved radio to my truck and back to the 102" mounted next to the rear taillights, 4.5 ft above ground. the only thing i had to do was install a section of ground wire around the antenna to bring the SWR down to acceptable level. I never had no problems except for low bridges and drive thru's. a radio and short mag mount antenna came with my GL hatch. I m going to remove that one, because the SWRs could not be tuned below 2:1 and either im going to lip mount the K40 or bumper mount the other 102" whip i have in storage. (SWR, Standing Wave Ratio. this is the amount of power being reflected back to the radio and if high enough will fry the radio, if the antenna is not the correct length. SWR of 1.5:1 acceptable MAX. the lower the better, 1:1, is best you can do and nearly impossible to obtain., my lowest i ever got was 1.1:1. 2:1, 11% pwr is being reflected back. ok, but range is limited. 3:1, 25% pwr reflection and transmission is not recommended. http://www.roadtripamerica.com/Equipment/How-to-Tune-a-C-B-Radio-Antenna.htm Tuning antenna, being 19 is the middle of the band, have the antenna tuned for this freq. the SWR's will rise slightly at 1 and 40, think shallow bowl and 19 is the center with 1 and 40 on the lip. as for other antennas, it really depends on what are the worse condtions you can imagine for an antenna, mag mounts are good, they can be removed for security, or can be brushed off if the impact is hard enough to lift the magnet off the car, could leave scratches in the paint. (a K40 mount can be either mag or permanet mount, but the base can be twist locked on/ off as well to remove the whip for storage. it has about 2" inch vertical travel for tuning adjustment. (mine was stolen, somebody removed the top half, left the base.) permanant steel whips, good, and can bend and flex when hitting trees and stuff. fiberglass, stiff, doesnt bend as much small steel spring at base helps alleviate this. thay can have the length of a 102" with its wire wound core. as for dual antennas, you either have to have them 1/4 wave apart, ~8ft or be very good electrically to make the radio "think" they are 8" apart. but dual antennas make a wierd radiating pattern and "directionalizes" the transmission. perpendicular to the line between the antennas. thats why truckers have duals, transmits/ receive forward/behind the truck. antennas needs a good ground plane to reflect off of. so if your antenna is at the rear center of the car, most of the energy transmits forward, or inthe corner, toward the opposite corner. espcially if you want ot transmit long distances. But if your range to transmit is 1-5 miles, i would go with a 3-4 ft 5/8th wave fiberglass antenna, mounted on the rear bumper. any small stock radio will do ( cobra, uniden, midland) have friend with a meter, help fine tune the antenna. 5/8 wave radiating pattern looks like a squished donut in appearance, more energy transmits horizontally than vertically. http://boatantenna.com/images/fig2.gif I think my best improvised antenna was about 100 foot of copper wire strung up into a tree, virtually no SWR's and got excellant reception. that my 2 cents. if you have questions, please PM me, Ken