Sioux-baru

Not to rain on your parade, but a stolen car usually goes to a chopshop or out of state/country, or built into something else. the plates swapped out, IMHO, I suspect it was taken for donor parts. Most parts would be used and whatever is left gone to scrap. I dont know if you have alerted scrap yard to be on the lookout for "junked" cars, they have to record the VINs I beleive. Do you have a VIN available? (PM me the VIN to keep it out of public view) I may be able to flag a search for it on my gov computer at work in case it shows up someplace. http://seattle.craigslist.org/skc/cto/1731718330.html http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/1740909692.html

So where did you get those wheels for codys hatch? 14 or 15's? looks so nice, I would want a set for my hatch.

I have been wanting forever to get another soob wagon. since the last one was totaled in a rear end collision. Esp for the spouse as a daily driver, and get her out of the minivan. WELL, I bought a 85 GL wagon EA81 5spd sight unseen, well only from the pictures (I just have to teach her how to drive a stick now) The previous owner states it doesnt start, carb issue, hasnt run in a year. Im thinking is all varnished up. I just have to go and get it. (can you say 1800 mile road trip.) Its down in Texas. I was told it never been outside Texas and by the pics, I beleive it. just a small rust spot by the back door. I was thinking just pulling my carb and taking it with and just swap them out. and it should drive home just fine. any suggestions? Once i get it back here, its going to be undercoated everywhere. if there is a vat big enough to dip it in. then maybe consider some mods.

Sounds like a candidate for a parts car. Omaha to Cheyenne is a days drive, depending on how heavy your foot is.

Ok, I had the HB on the road now for close to 2 months. im getting an ave 27mpg city/hwy (60/40). Here is the problem. after sitting overnight, starting, a quick warm up, i get going and i get a single backfire while shifting. after it gets to operating temp, no more backfires. would it be a sticky valve causing the problm? i using 10w-30 oil, do i need to do an internal cleaning(motor flush)? thanks,

paste this into google maps: 41.774896,-94.460621 and zoom to the midpoint on the scale.

Man, i f i did that in my driveway, my neighbor would be calling the city complaining...

Update: thanks for the advice, I removed the carburetor and the gasket was in terrible shape, soggy and worn. Under pressure forced coolant into the carb/ intake manifold... new gasket solved that problem and running rough again...have to retune the carb, but thats tomorrow, right now, need sleep -have mid shift 2130-0600... (previous remarks removed.) Thanks, Ken Bellevue, NE

I couldnt figure out why i wasnt getting any response, backfires, and really crappy mileage in my baby blue 'roo. 16mpg. put the timing light on it and removed the vacuum line and turned the dist up and down. after watching all cylinders fire, set the timing at ave of 8*btc. #3 misfires occasionally (still wondering why). Thought the inside may have been gunked up and decided to spray it down. Opened it up and discovered, 1. the rotors and contacts were slightly corroded and sanded the rough stuff down. 2. It must have been a mechanically inept person working on it beore, but those little plastic pieces on the edge of the distro were inside blocking the movement of the mech advance. I put the little pieces back where they belong put it all back together and back on the road for a test. rev it up ovr 3500 before shifting, got a few backfires, and eventually cleared up. response is alot smoother across all gears and speeds down the hwy. The mpg should go up now, im expecting mid 20's now with what left in tank. If i have to, rebuild the carburetor next time i have a couple of days off.

dont toss the cat insides, they are prbly worth just as much as the car.

unless your "Smokey" Yunick.(R.I.P.) the guy was a mechanical genius. about 30 years ago, he built and ran an engine with air/fuel mixture intake temp above 250F. I guess its still running. Im still trying to figure out how he did it without blowing something up.

I'm going to test this one more time, remove the switch and try starting it then taking a wire from the switch case to ground and see what happens. it also could be that I have 'christine' for a car.. SB

locksmith- key cut from trunk, got it. '86 GLHB ea81 J F 2 A F 5 3 B 0 G E ###### if that helps any Forgive me here i dont understand, in a right turn, the CCVS is sucking oil? - If so how do i fix? - I thought it was a carb problem with fuel starvation. SB

From Harriburg,PA to Yakima- on 19 Aug $516. RT from Philly, its $408. Philly to Sea- $208 http :// www . farecompare. com / flights / Yakima - YKM / city . html

I got my subie all legal now. $40plates and $20/mon insurance, not bad... if i figure out how to post pics, i'll post them 1. Removed the bad brake line and plugged the line with 10x1.00p metric (have brake pressure again.) looking for suitable replacement brake line even if I have to bend it myself, its going to be a PITA to install cause i have to remove the dash to get to the brake connector on the other side of the firewall above the master cylinder (ARRGHHH)-- i might as well replace the last section of steel brake line as well, never know when it might blow out. 2. R/R exhaust bolts with 4-10x1.25p 50mm and new gas seals. all quiet now! installed 2" flex and straight pipe along with glaspack. coated pipe inside and out with high temp silica paint. (incr the rust resistance). 3. Starter and battery tested, starter bearings were marginal- replaced it. 4. Key is tempermental in switch- had new key cut , a little better, but store wouldnt sell key blank. need to have blank to make higher peaks on key to compensate for previous key wear. NOTE: before getting new key, i tried the following; ---Tried bypassing the key switchlock asmbly using OLD key to unlock ---steering wheel, worn key wouldnt unlock steering wheel. Removed ignition switch and used screwdriver to turn ---switch to start. Engine will NOT start. Switch itself must be grounded. Short term: Immediate: Engine Flush, oil and filter changes- should I change the diff oil? prbly should being that oil was barely on the ds and feels gritty. also, radiator was 3qts low. boy, was this car abused... a good vacuuming. bit longer goal What remains, Need new driver seat, PO broke the springs... reinstall center components, radio, power point, etc... Gas gauge shows tank empty, even though tank full. -whats wrong, where do I start looking for the fault? Hatch strut lift supports need replacing, riveted in, no pins for removal. -Do I replace the rivets with cotter pins? Need carb tuning/ (rebuild?) (backfires once in a while.) 150 miles and still running on 'empty' tank of fuel to determine MPG. Have 2.5 gal can JIC. Results should determine if carb needs work. While doing right turn, engine sputters and dies if I dont interfere- carb issue? Need some body work, repair patch holes created by rust virus. should get it done this summer before next winter sets in and the city/state starts dumping snow melting corrosives on the street again. Yeah, those holes next to the drivers seat is not a good place for water, snow, mud, rocks, dirt, dust to come in and get my uniform messy... Long term: Have suspension corrosion that need attention. its not bad now, but sections will be in need of being repaired/replaced if rust not stopped.

So are you suggesting that an engine upgrade to ej22 would be in order for a wagon to be a more proper weight to power ratio? What EA tranny would match to a Ej22?

Cooling solution. I owned a 84 wagon. always gave me overheating problems. finally put a rebuilt radiator with increased capacity (dual core), never had cooling problems again. only to die in a rear end collision. Insurance totaled and took it. I saw it on I-15 SLC a few months later in '93. I wonder if its still running?

OK,. i have April 10 off, but can I still get my GLHB ready in time?:confused:The Brat is gonna take a longer time. unless it get submitted to Overhauling, but then they might just laugh at it and say no way were touching it. That gives me 6 whole days to fix the brakes(replace the corroded lines) and patch up some holes, or else i'll be taking on water like the titanic . I could rivet metal in and cover it with bedliner , but that would only delay the inevitable. Or I can stay home and just baby my subie. Anyone know where I can find a decent welder for a decent price? I grew up with acetylene cutting torches and making precise welds. I dont know much about migs/tigs, but i hear they are more precise.. . Using arcs, I typically used a whole stick on 6-8 inches of a weld. It may be overkill, but the weld held ... icon overkilll...

I am interested, but where exactly is this rally held? I may not be able to have my 'roos in condition for that kind of treatment yet. They definately need some work zzz done on them. some brake work, some metal work, etc...if time, a moderate, but not outrageous lift. maybe next year. I would like to attend, but my schedule is variable as well and I wont know what nexts month schedule is until late this week. If im free, thats great., if not, oh well, some other time...

I did the same on my BRAT. I used a hammer, wood chisel and paint scraper. IMO, save yourself the time and money and take a few hours over a couple of days to chisel it out.

I would love to put tracks on my GLHB or BRAT just for the wintertime around here. I have one of those jobs that require you to be available 24-7, mission essential personnel. Maybe if one gets a good look at them and a few pictures, one could fabricate something similar from some 4 old snowmobile parts and subie wheels Thats prbly where they got the idea from. Being from Minn-eh-sota and all, eh?

it looks like a 'morphed' wrx with the hood scoop and color..

This may or may not help, but when i run into engines that dont fire, I check electrical first, I disconnect the rotor wire and ground it, an observe it for spark when cranking the engine. IF that is good, i reconnect the wires and dump fuel down the carb and try again, it fires, and stop means no fuel getting to carb. or in your case, may be incorrect cam settings. in that case, i manually turn the engine for #1 to TDC, and check the distributer to match. thats my two cents.