phantomD

Everything bolts on. Strip all the parts from a donor vehicle and install to yours. There's also a smaller universal joint that connects the rack to the steering column plus a different thermostat housing that's longer to clear the P/S pump. As well as the P/S pulley you'll need to have the triple pulley for the crankshaft which will also involve (I believe) getting rid of the crank fan if you still have it and installing a slimline electric fan instead (I could be wrong on that point).

This was my experience also - although I don't remember having to drill holes for the lines?

Can somebody tell me whether the Y-pipe for these engines is the same as for any of the other engine models around that era? I have an EA81S just about out of rebuild but I don't have the correct Y-pipe. I'll probably have to get one made but I thought I'd ask around first - thanks in advance.

Nope, EA81 on the block, "S" imprinted in white on the rocker covers.

kiwi subbie - wondering if you can help me - how rare are those cold air intakes? Would there be one in NZ that could be sent over to Oz with the right arrangement?

This is also my experience. The rear discs are much smaller than the fronts so a PV is not required. The braking is unbelievably improved - in fact since going rear discs I've not managed to lock up the wheels once (you can really hear the tyres working to grip the road) whereas I used to have a lot of trouble with lock up on the factory drums...

I have this exact same problem which is not any of the items already mentioned (it would seem). I look forward to hopefully being able to solve it with this thread.

Short to ground at the thermoswitch on the radiator. Disconnect wire to diagnose.

You don't know that. A bad alternator can cause his issues, and I'm speaking from experience.

That assembly is the idle-up for the factory air conditioner. When the a/c compressor kicks in, vacuum is applied from a solenoid sitting with relays on the passenger strut tower to the unit (where you are currently looking at a hole) which then tugs the accelerator cable slightly to increase idle speed while the compressor is running.

You can fit the twin carbs to a standard EA81 engine. It will give a noticeable power increase, but nowhere near as much as the carbs AND heads. Not sure what they'd be worth in $US, in Australia a set just went for over $600.

I had this on an EA81...alternator/battery/charging system/other electrical.

I'd sure love to get my hands on those gold badges on the grille and tailgate of that BRAT in the advertisment!!

Took my camera for a ride in the Brumby today.

Did you find the problem?

I still say it's an electrical problem with the charging system. Your car should be sitting at at least 12.5V when switched off and somewhere in the vicinity of 14V when running. The volt gauge in the video indicates something well below this. A car cannot run without proper voltages running through the system, I was chasing a low idle/stalling issue for ages until I replaced the alternator for other reasons and the problem disappeared. Your car is doing exactly what mine was doing in a low voltage situation, the spark may "look" good but it may not be if voltages are low, also the rest of the car (fuel pump, electronics, other electrical) need the power supply to be within specification to run properly. Disconnecting the alternator is not the right way to diagnose if it isn't charging properly, rather you should put a multimeter on the battery before, during and after starting and while revving the engine (not sure if the dash volt meters are any good on these cars). Make sure the voltages are in the ballpark of what I mentioned above, and if not, replace or fix that alternator.

Had something similar with a dying/dead alternator.

If you have to rev the car to 4000rpm to get the alternator to kick start then it would be a case of a bad excitor diode inside the alt.

Other than the hesitation, everything else is classic operation of a factory auto choke which only needs some adjustment.

Very common with those old gearboxes...not much you can do about it. I simply shift into 4th gear (WITH THE CAR COMPLETELY STATIONARY) and then into reverse which eliminates the problem. Also if you have issues with it not wanting to go into 1st gear (usually after 1st gear launch, into neutral then it won't go back into 1st), just clutch out then back in in neutral. That's what I do, and I doubt there's anything wrong with my transmission seeing as it has new fluid and the car has 35 000km on it.

Go with the Redline. It is amazing stuff...I have a very notchy 4 speed gearbox behind my EA81 and the Redline is by far the best gearbox fluid I've ever used. I've tried all sorts of fluids and additives in the time that I've had the car.

Hang on, what's this about blaster coils killing distributors? I was about to fit one to mine...

For me it was a torn CV boot dripping grease onto the hot 4WD case off the transmission.

Agreed 100% and THANK YOU for the thread. My headlights don't even dim at idle with all the fans/stereo/ac turned on and up. Just amazing.