Suba9792

ugh, makes me not wanna do my belt myself, free beer for anyone who helps:lol:

So I checked RockAuto.com and total parts cost to do my big ole project is $673.00, its not bad since it does include all of the following - shipping Radiator Thermostat Thermostat housing and gasket Timing belt kit water pump water pump gasket oil pump seal cam seals W/ o-rings back up light switch (mine went out and yes its not the bulbs) and O2 sensors ( probably could wait on these) now to just find the stuff I need to lift it up a bit.

I also noticed on here that some of you recommend replacing the radiator and thermostat while I do the timing belt, should I do all new hoses as well? and what brand of radiator would be best to buy? I tend to get my parts from rockauto.com. I just want this beast to be 100% on top of its game since it is our only vehicle for the time being. I guess I will just do the timing belt and accesories, oil pump seal,cam seals,radiator,water pump,thermostat,hoses.

well, I was told that the 2.2 tend to blow around 160k, is this a myth? anyway I want to do the outback lift and such but I was wondering what parts do I need and how do you do it.

So I'm planning on lifting my legacy brighton wagon, I was told by many to use the struts and cross member spacers from an Outback or Forester to gain 2.5" more clearance is this true? because if so, I'm gonna go for it:banana: 2nd ?, I got a quote from a shop near my home for some engine work, I can do minor work and repairs but I dont trust myself to do any big jobs, they quoted me for the following- Timing belt/W new tensioners and sprocket and bearings cam and crank seals(front and rear for the crank) Water pump reseal the oil pump Head gaskets (have not blown but I have 140k so I would rather not risk it happening) new oil pan gasket new diff fluid front and rear total qoute $2,235.63 parts and labor they guy said he will warranty all his work for 100k more miles:banana: what do you guys think?

I've never done one myself on an EJ22, it should be fairly straight forward, probably 2 hrs of work?

the 2.2 in a NON-interference motor, but yeah I think I will just do the belt for ************s and giggles.

So the belt was done I believe @ 90k the car now has 140k should I do the belt?

what problem are you having, I'm having trouble with my 3EAT in my loyale, hence the reason for it being up for sale, just dont have the time.

check the rear bearings and drums, sound can be deceiving.

Silverhelme are you taking the seal between the tranny and front diff? that would be a pain it the A$$ to fix.

so I pulled th modulator and from the looks of it the fluid is coming from that general area, I just ordered a new 14 bolt pan gasket,modulator, and working on getting a new downshift solenoid from the dealer(the others from rockauto), hopefully they both come with new o-rings:-\ And I also ordered a new vacuum line from the modulator to the rest of the birds nest, so I hope that this will do the trick, otherwise its going to be time to save the cash and do the EJ and 5spd swap.

I really don't think the tranny case is cracked because it only leaks fluid when its running and in gear, but still I wont know until I check, but I did just order the vacuum module and a new pan gasket since I did pull it to see if there was any junk inside, Hopefully I wont have to replace the tranny they cost too much:slobber:

well its definitely your wheel bearings, my buddy has a 00 and it did the same deal, we pulled the hub and low and behold there was play, jack the rear end up and put one hand on the top of the tire and one on the bottom and wiggle it, it you hear any noise or it moves a bit, then yes bearings. Also I do believe that most subies after a certain mileage the heat shield on the exhaust will sort of buzz at a certain RPM, but then again that's just my 97 so far and my buddies 99 OB. Good luck to ya:banana:

really? no one has any info, fooey!

So my 3at is having issues, I was told to check the governor gear thingy, and the flex plate, but this may be a dumb question but could it possibly be the bearings in the diff for the front drive axles?:-\ It clinks when you take off from a start, and requires some rpms for it to even get in gear, reverse takes some rpms then a clunk, there is fluid leaking from some where on the tranny that drips onto the exhaust after the cat. The problem started after my wife accidentally threw it in reverse going about 20 mph, she is used to the 5spd in our 97 Leg Brighton, so I guess I could see why it happened, I'm just hoping that the tranny isn't cracked and or have stripped gears or somthin inside, I'm going to pull it apart on Tuesday to asses the situation, if any one has ideas please HELP:lol: of if I could get anyone to help me out I'd throw in a case of brewski's:banana: Mike, Sandy, Oregon 92 Loyale wagon 4WD 97 Legacy Brighton 4WD Tamiya Imprezza rally car RC Axial Honcho RC Crawler scale

EJ22, basically bullet proof, but tis alot of work my friend, you would basically need to find a donor car,engine,tranny,ECU etc. But probably worth it in the long run.

That sounds and looks really easy to do:banana: I'll try checking the Governor gear this coming Tuesday, but I'm still wondering where the fluid may be leaking from, my guess would possibly be the evaporator on the tranny may be plugged or it could be a seal some where, it didnt do this until my wife drove the car and being used to a 5spd:lol: she accidentally threw it into reverse going 25 mph, so hopefully its nothing that cant be fixed easily.

So my 92 loyale has a 3spt AT, well at a light or stop etc, it will make a clinking sound and rev a few rpms before it starts off, reverse takes some rpms as well then clank its going, its also leaking fluid between the front diff and the tranny, I pulled the tranny pan and nothing perfectly clean no chunks,shavings etc, I was going to sell the car for 450 but I would be talking a massive loss if I did, does anyone have any ideas? maybe a new tranny? rebuild? if I did get a new tranny I dont want to spend over 200, and no more than 250 to do a 5spd swap( would need GD for that one ) :-\

put new timing belts on it,plugs,wires, a little high octane fuel, run it for a while see what happens:)

some times....try replacing the plugs and plug wires...sounds crazy but it has worked on many soobies for me.

nope, somehow it loosened its self out, the threads on the plug were fine like the new one, I put the new one in and it seated just fine, I really think someone who is an rump roast may have done it to it! but who knows could have been my misstake since I had a few when I did the plugs last.

Cleared it:banana: I disconnected the - batt terminal and held down the brake for 40sec and Voila!! sovled gotta love my grandpas old tricks:lol:

edit- The spark plug came out with the plug wire:-\