jboymechanic

I would highly recommend having the flywheel resurfaced properly. In most cases the flywheel has a very specific finish and may even have a very small step (my '96 Legacy required a 0.004 step in the finish). Tom, I know you're the kind of guy that does it once because he did it right.

Keep it as the Ski Team Wagon.

New KYB rear struts and 1" UHMWPE spacers on top to level out the Legacy. No more tire rub! Also just hit 5,000 miles on the frankemotor, so far so good.

Get yourself an old Mopar style fuel filter.

When I checked prices for FatMat versus DynaMat it was roughly 1/3 the cost. A lot of the guys over on the ForwardLook (1955 to 1961 Mopars) recommended it to me so I order it for my Imperial. I knew Tom needed some as well so I thought we could order together to save on shipping, but shipping was also free from FatMat. It is very dense and very sticky, you pretty much have one shot to get it down where you want it.

Tom, according to the UPS tracking number we should have our order of FatMat today at some point. When I get deliveries from UPS it is usually at about 4 PM, I will let you know when it arrives though.

Nice job with the welding Tom, car is looking great. I was going to order some FatMat for the Imperial, should I double my order and send the rest your way? Let me know, hope to order tomorrow. If money is the issue, I know you're good for it.

Might have to order online. I plan on using this stuff for the Imperial: http://www.fatmat.com They may have local distributors.

Depending on the overall size and the grade of stainless you probably have about a $100 sheet there. I didn't know you could weld stainless to plain carbon steel, will paint adhere to it properly?

Sorry Tom, couldn't resist. Back to the car, it is looking incredible, nice job on the body work and cleaning up the engine bay. Looking forward to doing the clutch (if needed). Maybe you should give more thought to going to tech school and becoming a certified technician. Might as well get paid to do what you like and what you're good at.

If you can drive stick I'd hold out for one with a 5 speed. AWD is more reliable, but again I try to stay away from the quad cam 2.5s.

Maybe you should just worry about actually tappin' hole first. :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

If you want to ditch the EGR, I could probably help you make a nice block off plate. Draw it up in SolidWorks and then machine it out of an aluminum plate on the mill at work. Could even polish it. Let me know.

Do you even need the EGR? This car should be able to run great without all of the emissions crap and you're trying to clean things up under the hood, so why not ditch it entirely? Do the webers have electric choke? If so, get it, that will simplify things even more (choke just requires one power wire, can run one right from the alt). I'd ditch the catalytic converter as well. It is illegal to remove factory installed emissions equipment from a vehicle, but I doubt they would ever pay attention to and old 4 cylinder Subaru. The car should run better and get better power too.

Yeah, the old quad cam 2.5s in the old Outbacks tend to become very troublesome with age/miles.

Lookin' good buddy, doing a first class job as usual. Hope to cruise out there in my '58 Belvedere as soon as I fix the brake lights so I can check out your progress first hand.

Passed WI state emission inspection with my 2.5 liter franken motor in my 1996 Legacy. 1,000 miles and counting since the conversion, nice to have power in fifth gear despite 3.9 gears and 27" tires.

Finally got my 1996 Legacy 5MT with 2.5 frankenmotor together. Engine runs strong and smooth, was surprised how easily it all came together. Resealed the engine and replaced the clutch as long as the engine was out. Ready for another 100,000 miles.

The funny thing is that my old '87 GL-10 had a set of these wheels on it when we went up to Duluth.

Seriously though, looking good Tom, you'll have a beautiful car by the end of the summer.

Two in the slit, one in the ************. Two in the coot, one in the shoot.

Tom, I think you forgot "replace the clutch" from your list.

I get all my body work and painting supplies at Monark Auto in Burlington, quite a trip for you. I'm sure there is a similar store in Waukesha.

Tom, as you weld in patches make sure to seal around the welds with body seam sealer (if you haven't already, you're a smart guy). As for sound deadening, a lot of the old Chrysler guys like Fat Mat, works as well as Dynamat but not as expensive.

Yo Tom, partsgeek.com has the wheel bearings you need. Make much progress today? I was hoping to stop by to check that car out yet, but I worked on mine all day as well (and will again tomorrow).