Snowman

Get a gen 1 Legacy with the EJ22. (89-94?) This car was voted "easiest to work on" or something to that effect by a mechanics' association in 1991. Avoid the 89 though, apparently they had bad luck with transmission bearings. After that, it's all good. I've read articles on these cars that say the EJ22's expected service life with proper maintenance is in the neighborhood of 300-400k. If you take care of a newer soob, it will treat you just as well as the old ones. The loyales were much more prone to things like oil leaks and eating timing belts than the new cars.

Mud, could you get some pics up of your boat? I saw pictures once of a carbureted EJ20 in a jetboat. It looked SICK! As far as cooling, freshwater cooling wouldn't be a good idea. Too many issues with rust. Also, what if little water-borne creatures get inside the engine and make their home there? There are two ways to cool a marine engine aside from freshwater. Keel cooling like Mudboat mentioned is probably the best because no water is drawn in or out of the boat in order to cool the engine. You can also run a heat exchanger, in which the water outside of the boat is circulated in an exchanger and transfers the heat away from the water that runs through the engine. This setup can have problems with leaks, and of course you get all the risks associated with pumping water into the boat.

Do you have a spare alternator that you could throw on. My mom's legacy did the same thing and it was something inside the alt.

So, La Mex dountown for dinner on monday night work for everybody? How do you get there?

So, if you were to cut the MAF signal at that point, eliminating the fuel shutoff, wouldn't the engine go lean above that point because the computer thinks that less air is going in?

I'm not doubting Ken's HP numbers here, but I sure would like to see a write-up of exactly what was done to this engine. That is a BIG increase in power.

Question 1: Just like what has been said, it's cheaper. Question 2: Not having been over the age of 8 when Subaru produced the loyale turbo (it ended in 94 right?), I can't say for sure, but judging from who still owns them, I would guess that Subaru just didn't market their cars to the racing crowd, at least in the US. Even the turbo cars were marketed as relatively utilitarian and practical vehicles, not race cars.

I'm not sure I understand your question. I'm referring to the filters you can get at the Subaru dealer, that are white and say "Subaru" on the side in blue letters.

I wouldn't worry about it unless something is leaking. Maybe do the rear main just because it's the biggest pain to get at and MAYBE the cam seals. Unless the engine was stored in a harsh environment, everything should be fine. I had a car that sat in the ALASKAN WOODS for seven years before I resurrected it, and nothing leaked.

Any of the times suggested are fine for me. Never ate at La Mex before, but I'd love to try. Just give me good directions so it doesn't end up like last time:rolleyes: . Anybody else going to be around? (I'll PM some other AK members)

That would be great if we could post events and such on the webpage. My personal email is ksnow43@hotmail.com Would it be possible to put some pictures up the webpage? Oh, and again, anybody interested please send your contact info to subaruklubofalaska@hotmail.com.

Attention anybody who lives in Alaska and is potentially interested in joining the Subaru Klub of Alaska! This organization is open to anybody in Alaska (or Canada) who owns a Subaru, has owned a Subaru, or is thinking of owning a Subaru. We should try to have an informal get-together sometime in the near future. Anchorage seems to be a good central location for meet-ups, so how about one here? Soooo..... Who is going to be coming to Anchorage in the near future and when? Also, when would be a good time for locals to meet up? I would like to get as many people together as possible so that we can talk about the formation of this organization and meet face to face with some of the members. Updates: AKBrando has created a SKA website where members can access the contact information of other members and post events. Hopefully we can get some pics up there soon. (There is another thread on the site that has a link to it.) I have been talking to McBrat about getting stickers printed up. We will know prices in the next couple of days, and then ordering can begin. If it goes fast, we might be able to get the stickers before the meet n' greet. That's all for now. Please let us know if this would work for you, and send your contact information if you haven't already to subaruklubofalaska@hotmail.com, or to AKBrando, so that it can be posted.

Brilliant! I had started exploring the possibilities of a web page, but obviously you beat me to it! Definitely a good start, and even better that it's free. Could you PM me the password?

What I have been told hydrocracking is: The big long chains of molecules in dino oil are broken down into really small ones, which are then built back up in appropriately sized chains of molecules. Why exactly it is inferior to an actual synthetic, I am not sure. Possibly because it still comes from dino oil and is therefore not as pure? I am not going to get into the synthetic vs dino oil arguments again. People will believe what they want to, so I'll let them.

Go with a Subaru filter. They can be purchased for $60 per case of 12, which is comparable if not better than most high-quality filters.

Yup, synthetic oils simply are better. That's all I run in my car from the engine to the rear diff.

Okay, I guess these will work fine. I had just heard some "horror stories" about gen 1 heads being horrible. I can't remember exactly what the TSB I have says (it's 750 miles away from me right now), but basically they added more material around the exhaust port and moved the valves farther apart or something like that.

Well, what we do know is that the timing is off. Either one or both of the belts is off a tooth or two, or the distributor is off a tooth. Pull the T-belt covers off so you can see the alignment marks (sometimes a little mirror is helpful). Make dead sure that the marks line up exactly with the flywheel set to the T-belt alignment mark. Note: There are marks in the belt covers both above and below the sprockets. Due to the layout, it is much easier to tell if the timing is correct if you use the upper marks to check. After doing that, move on to the distributor. If you still can't see the marks, it's off a tooth. With the engine running, move the disty back and forth to adjust the timing. If advancing the timing helps, you are a tooth retarded. If retarding helps, you are a tooth ahead. Once you have determined what needs to be done, carefully pull the disty out just enough to move it a tooth, reinstall, and fire it up.

So I ended up having to get rebuilt heads for my EA82T that's going into the RX. Ordered up a set from Aluminum Head Rebuilders, which arrived friday. Got to looking at them, which are gorgeous by the way, and noticed that they're gen 1 heads (EA82 with no line or box). I was a bit disappointed by this for two reasons. First, the slightly more forgivable fact that builders such as CCR use only the later gen heads on their turbo motors. Secondly, and less forgivable, is the fact that I told them the car was an 89, which would indicate gen 3 heads should be installed (use parts at least as good as what came from the factory). Now I'm wondering how wise it would be to use these heads. They are in fine shape, with new valves and great machine work, but they are still first gen heads. I suppose the question I need to ask is just how likely these heads are to crack. Will it not be a problem if the car isn't overheated, (I'm putting in a new rad, among other things) or will they fall apart right away? How about under hard driving? Stories and experiences in addition to hard facts would be greatly appreciated.

Okay, I'll believe that. Maybe I'll do some work on the ports next time I have an engine apart.

That's pretty sad. Those are things that you would look up in the FSM to verify in most cases, but any manufacturer's certification test should include basic things like the procedure for diagnosing a CEL. The blinking light is slightly more forgivable I guess...

Torxxx: Yup, I got your address n' stuff. I'll call the guy tonight and get you paid. Thanks for all the help.

As to the head cracks, my heads had a bridge crack in one cylinder on each side. I tapped them down a bit, and those heads lasted just fine on the first engine for 5,000 miles until it threw a rod (long, painful, and expensive story). I re-used those same heads on my current engine, which has around 7,000 miles on it so far without any problems. I wonder about doing any porting on the EA82 heads, as they are fragile enough already, and removing metal will likely result in less ability to take heat.

Welcome to the board, you have come to the right place! When I inquired about getting taller pistons from an EA71 engine to put in my EA82, the dealer parts guy said, "Huh, they really are interchangable?" People on this board have been interchanging those pistons for years. Once I did talk to a dealership guy that was impressed with my lifted Subaru, so they're not ALL bad.

What is the update dealt with in the TSB, and what years of cars was it for?