Snowman

What did you do? Taller springs?

What's the Toyota disty cap look like? Is it just a rubber boot that covers it up?

I know there really isn't any money in doing something like this, but I would encourage some of you EA82T guys to compile a how-to book on modding this engine. I recently wrote up a carb->SPFI conversion manual over my Christmas break. I didn't actually SELL any copies, but I was able to trade for Subaru parts. I'm sure that there would be enough people on this board alone that it would be worth your while.

I was running premium gas the whole time, which up here varies between 90 and 92 octane.

Now I HAVE seen everything! That's really cool. I figured that somebody must have lifted a Justy by now.

Soooo, do we have a set time for this? Say six pm on monday (just to arbitrate something)?

We had freezing rain in SE Alaska a couple weeks ago. It was sooooo much fun! 4-wheel drifts on EVERY corner!

Counterclockwise. Got an impact wrench?

But this is Alaska, it'll NEVER be out of the snow!

You're right Calebz. I could have sworn there was an A/T identifier pin, but I was mistaken. I must have been thinking of the Cal/49-state ID pin. So yeah, no changes between auto and manual tranny models.

Here's the story of my engine(s) and their experiences with the Delta cams I've got in there right now. This is in my 86 ea82 wagon that started out carbed. Stage 1: Completely stock engine before cams. Non-factory muffler, intake and coil. She liked running around 16 degrees of timing advance. (The factory setting is 8). Stage 2: Addition of Weber carb. Basically the same timing setting. Stage 3: Rebuilt engine, installed Delta cams. Ran better and better as I advanced the timing. I actually had to grind the distributor hold downs so I could turn it a little farther. I'm guessing it was around 25-27 degrees. At that point, I was just going by how far I could advance before pinging, and there wasn't any at that setting. Then that engine threw a rod because of my stupid mistake when I put it together. Completely unrelated to ignition timing. Stage 4: Rebuilt the SPFI motor out of my parts car, but used the Weber carb again and the Delta cams. With the higher compression, all it could take before pinging was around 18 degrees. Stage 5: Converted to SPFI. With the electronically contolled timing, I'm running around 22-25 degrees of advance with no pinging. It actually feels like it wants a tiny bit more, so I'm going to experiment with that in the near future. So, long story short, it seems that with Delta cams, you can and should run more ignition timing advance.

Will, you are an inspiration to us all!

I think it came in the base model imprezas.

There is a difference between the auto and manual tranny EFI. I am not entirely certain whether or not the computer is physically different or not, but I don't think it is. I'm pretty sure that it's just a programming adjustment. My understanding is that all you must do is remove/disconnect the A/T identifier pin from the ECM connection (It tells the computer that it's in a car with an auto tranny). Surely others know more about this than I do, but I think that is the case. :snowman - sorry.. meant to reply, not edit

Also check out www.mrtrally.com.au

The flywheel is in Haines still, and a buddy of mine that owes me a favor is coming through Anchorage on his way back to Fairbanks on Sunday.

Check this out: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28620 There is a complete parts list a few pages into the manual. Sweet82: Cost is dependant upon a lot of things. I got a complete SPFI donor car for $100 and spent $150-$200 on new parts.

Hush777, you rock. Thanks for all the scanning and posting it up on your webspace. Note: I would HIGHLY recommend getting 'hold of the FSM for the donor car and at least some sort of wiring diagram for the car the system is going into. It makes things worlds easier.

The factory spec for hitachi carbs is around 3 psi. What kind of carburetor is on this vehicle?

The oil pump shaft seal is a common leaker. The only real solution is a new pump because the shaft gets worn so a new seal won't help. You can get a new OEM pump for ~$130 from 1stsubaruparts.com. The next thing I would check is the front crankshaft seal. These also commonly leak.

Sorry, I can't help with a diagram. Got a multimeter? Start testing with the meter to see what has continuity when, and what sort of resistance there is. The main power control should have close to 0 ohms of resistance, and the circuit that lights the switch itself should have several ohms. I honestly have no idea why they would make a simple switch so complicated, but you can probably figure it out with a little bit of messing around.

On my ea82, I'm just going to put RX springs on the front in addition to the Honda springs I already put on the rear. That should give an extra inch of height.

cobbtuning.com They can do it, but it ain't cheap.

So, rather than retrofitting a "swirl pot", would it be effective to tap into the crossover pipe, install a bleader fitting of some sort, and periodically bleed off any bubbles?

I'm done with class at noon on monday, so any time is fine. Matt: I should have your flywheel by then and I'll bring it with.