Snowman

Have you tried to pull codes?

www.ccrengines.com

No s***!? My GL has automatic strut-quadrant type adjusters. I find it hard to believe that they didn't have any sort of automatic adjustment mechanism on the DL models, but stranger things have happened.

That's a very good point that I hadn't thought about. The rear brake adjusters are SUPPOSED to work automatically, but they could very well be gummed up and not working. I am not positive about this, but I believe that they adjust when you apply the brakes while in reverse. You might try backing up and slamming on the brakes a few times. However, it's probably a good idea to inspect all the brakes.

Very interesting. A lot of this is common sense when you think about how cooling systems are designed, but since when do most people use common sense? You should definitely post that in the USRM now.

Ummm, that's a Toyota.

You've likely got air in the brake system. Bleed it again very thoroughly, following the procedure from a manual to the letter.

OMG! That is soooooo cool! Does anybody run jet drives down there? I would assume not because it's not THAT shallow and weeds n' such would be problematic.

I'm another very satisfied customer. Their stuff is often cheaper than NAPA knock-offs.

Likely reasons: 1. Battery is getting tired 2. Oil is too thick 3. The starter's electrical circuit is problematic. Not to the point that it has trouble starting under normal conditions, but that problems arise when a larger demand is placed on it. Remember that cranking at 0 degrees takes 350% of the power that it takes to crank at 80 degrees, and the battery has substantially less power available.

I dunno if this would work for the ER27, but it's worth a shot. So far, I have avoided spending the money for an actual piston pin puller by making a substitute out of a bolt. I ground almost all of the head off so that it has a little nub sticking out on one side that can grab the pin and pull it out. You might be able to make a really long one that would reach way down in there. It works great on EA82's, but reaching that far might be problematic.

Loose spark plug, disconnected wire, or wires mismatched.

So, let me get this straight. Without putting any external vacuum source on the regulator, the fuel pressure is 22 psi and the car runs like crap. If 28 in. is applied, the fuel pressure drops to 10 psi and the car runs good. It would appear that the fuel pump isn't a problem since the car runs better with less pressure. I would look around in a junkyard for a complete throttle chamber, which houses the injector, throttle plate, TPS, and pressure regulator.

Where is this writeup of how to avoid air bubbles? I looked in the USRM and it's not there.

If it's got spark, it's highly likely that the passenger side T-belt broke.

Should be a pretty easy swap. The disty might be kind of a tight fit, and I know the frame rails are narrower on the older cars, but this has been done before. You'll want a d/r 5 speed tranny from an 85-89 car. For all the engine wiring stuff, consult the SPFI conversion manual that is now posted in the USRM (BTW, it's actually 9.5:1 compression in that motor).

You should be able to put the caps back on the lifters. Just put some little indentations in there once they are on so they'll stay there. For the oil pump, I would recommend from experience just getting a new one. This type of pump does wear out. Check out 1stsubaruparts.com. They have good service and great prices. I just ordered a set of heads from Aluminum Head Rebuilders in Portland. You might give them a ring. So, just to satisfy my curiosity, on the ER27, how do you remove the piston pins on cylinders 2 and 4? Edit: As to the lack of responses concerning XT6's on this board, I think it's mainly the fact that they are a relatively rare car. Less people have driven/worked on/owned an ER27 car than an EA81 or EA82 car. It's not that people are disdainful toward them, it's just that people don't have much experience with them.

Heck yeah! I wanna check that out!

Yup, it shouldn't be a problem. Whenever I do lots of short trips in the winter, mine starts to get a little bit of that crap on the filler cap. Whenever that happens, I try to drive it for a long time without shutting off to get the moisture out.

As to the EA81 disty mod: I have not personally done the conversion on an EA81, so I am not capable of giving detailed instructions. That's why I left that out. However, Miles Fox and others have put EA82 distributors on EA81 engines, and from what I understand, you have to grind off one of the hold-downs). That's it.

I'm running the factory skidplate still. Never left home without it! The problem with putting too much in the way of plates to block out snow and mud is that you can't stop the stuff from getting in there, all that will do is prevent it from getting back out. The front of my car turns into a glacier whenever there is deep snow up here.

Man, that is weird. (I know that's really encouraging, huh? ). Clean the choke assembly with carb cleaner and make sure everything moves freely. As to the overheating, does it have any problems other than this? Does it get hot at highway speed or at low speed? Anything like that?

Make sure you use OEM Subaru gaskets and put them on dry with no sealant or anything.

Thanks. I hadn't really thought about dual batteries but maybe I will pursue that in the near future as it would be very helpful if I install a winch.

Sweet, I'll have to look for one.