Setright

It's a good idea to hose down the covers and the heads before opening anything. All that grit should not be let into the engine!

But the Synpower stuff, that kicks arse ;-)

It reeks! But it will go away....I know, I always spill some, clumsy fingers.

I don't know about the Shockproof stuff, but Redline 75W-90 for synchros did not work too well in my Subaru. Valvoline will not dissappoint!

Excuse me :-\ Those two plug wires on the right side of the coil in the picture are not stock items. Those on the left look correct, though. Maybe that's the problem? Wrong resistance? Or broken internal cracks in the wires cause they are bent the wrong way to fit a car they don't match?

Rear pad wear: A 2003 model is likely to have EBD. Electronic Brakeforce Distribution will make the rear brakes work harder in a straight line and ease off them in bends. "Accelerated" wear is a common complaint. At work, my boss' Toyota needed new rear pads before fronts - at 30k miles!! Shudder: The most likely cause is rotors. If the pad deposits are still very thin then hard braking can "mask" the shudder. You'll need to be very persuasive to get the dealer to fit new rotors and pads. Perhaps they can meet you half-way if you supply the pads? That way you can better pads than those stock "Jurid" pads.

Well, having also tried a number of oils and having a passion for Castrol "Syntorq" for a long time, I have recently been introduced to Valvoline Synpower 75W-90 It cured a 2nd to 3rd grind that Castrol couldn't improve on. A local Danish rally driver suggested this oil, he uses it his race cars and the gearboxes last 120k miles. Evidence enough for me :-)

Will you get mad at me if I suggest that you use the hexagon part on the camshaft to hold it with next time? It might not be like that on all sube engines, but most seem to have this.

Not sure on the exact figure, but around 3000rpm.

I love it when a plan comes together :cool:

Well, I used to trumpet "Castrol TAF-X" also known as "Syntorq" but I have discovered that Valvoline Synpower 75W-90 is just that little bit better, and probably easier/cheaper to get a hold of in the States. Both are far better than Redline. Zero crunching with Valvoline.

Should be good, Subaru turbo engines tend to last! I am gettting one in a Forester soon :-)

Radial tyres have a very stiff metal mesh underneath the tread. This is very reluctant to change shape or size. That's why it keeps a good grip on the road, it won't deform and lose contact patch like a cross-ply does. The radial bit is actually referring to the direction of the weave/mesh that makes up the sidewalls. This is rather flexible, allowing the tyre to offer ride comfort. More air will straighten these walls out and usually give less ride comfort because the flex is reduced. The stiff mesh around the perimeter doesn't alter shape or length because of that. Sure, a tyre pumped to 45psi may stretch in perimeter compared to a non-inflated tyre, but the difference is minimal. With respect to tyre-pressure sensor systems: They haven't done too well yet. Porsche did it right with the true pressure sensors on the 959 - the rims had hollow spokes to allow the sensor to live in the center and not cause balance problems!

Is this the sound you're looking for? http://media.putfile.com/Outside57 Recorded with a mic hanging inside the bumper on my "Subaru Sports Muffler" equipped Impreza - 2.0 na. Euro model.

I have to agree with Texan's first comment. The tyre circumference will not change. That's the whole point of radially wound tyres: The tread doesn't change shape. That means that more air will NOT stretch the tyre like a balloon.

No, no, no! You just explain the term "turbo lag".....

Have a small hammer or a rubber mallet handy. Next time it acts up, tap the start motor assembly lighty a few times. Could be a contact problem in the starter. Under the hood, behind the engine, on the driver's side.

No problems "as such". However, any car that is left standing for days on end in salted winter climates will have a tendency to freeze calipers.

These guys obviously never believed the "There's no subsitute for cubic inches." cliché

The new 2.5 turbos have a longer stroke and smaller bore. I doubt they will have any headgasket weakness. Not sure on the non-turbo 2.5 - so you better get a turbo !!

Cookie, we need to get the moderators to make this a "sticky thread". Thanks very much for sharing, I for one will sleep a little easier now ;-)

The fluid inside the viscous coupling is oil. As it heats up it actually decreases in viscosity, but it does expand and that pushes the plates together ;-)

Most likely the main shaft bearings. It's not critical, as long as the tranny oil wasn't full of metal shavings. A thin layer on the magnetic plug is normal.

Try it again with both right wheels on snow and the lefts on clean tarmac. The right wheels will spin most of the power away. More pronounced on the front if the rear LSD is working. It's not a question of "true 4wd", it's about balance between traction from wheel to wheel. All four wheels have drive going to them, it's a question of whether they can put it to use.

Upgrading the fronts will mean "underbraking" the rears a bit, but it's ok to do. I would not complain about Brembo rotors, but I would urge you to fit Mintex OE pads instead. Lots of bite, longlife, and little dust and squeal. Ceramic pads will eat your rotors.