Setright

Yeah, I tend to cruise at 2500rpm. 5000rpm is visited regularly, and the redline is seen daily. So, 97OBW, I would actually suggest that you occasionally "thrash" your engine a bit once it is warm. 5000rpm will do, and it gets the plugs and heads hot enough to burn off soot.

Start by replacing the coolant temperature sensor. (On the assumption that spark plugs and fuel filter are still in good condition.)

One minute is enough on a cold morning - unless we are talking Alaskan temperatures. Drive gently until the temperature gauge shows normal operating temp. That means no more than half-throttle and staying below 4000rpm-

Yep, 7.5k is no real stress on an engine that runs "normal" daily driving routines. Even when I thrash my car around tracks for a day during summer, I don't change earlier than 5k. Still, only one track day per oil change. For peace of mind, you could try swapping just the filter at 3.25k...

Well, the mushiness should go quite fast, like within the first 30miles. The pulsing pedal should dissappear within 60-80miles - depends on finish of the disc surface. (Painted/anodised discs take a while) Have look at the disc surface, the surface should start to look smooth quite soon. The inner most area will probably seat last since the car has floating calipers and these tend to rotate a tiny bit during braking. (mine do)

Forester 2002: I put copper grease on the stud threads to avoid corrosion. Here in Denmark the authorities love to spread lots of salt on the roads during winter, and that damn salty water has a way of creeping in everywhere. The hub is open from the inside. I keep the cone parts of the lug nuts and wheels clean, there should be plenty of friction there to keep the lugs from moving. I also believe that the thick grease I am using will "transmit" torque, it doesn't exactly leave the bolt-threads friction free.

The pump doesn't have to come off to replace the head gasket on that side, but the drive belt for it does. Maybe the mech overtightend the belt upon assembly.

Aberdeen! I visited your fair city a few years ago :-) Anyway, although I am not certain about the estate, the sedan has only the four bolts holding the light cluster. However, the gasket isn't rubber, it's some kind of sealant. That means the light needs to pulled out with a bit of force. Try applying some heat with a hair drier to soften the sealant. And of course, double check for an extra nut/bolt. You'll need to clean the old sealant off and apply some new stuff. The grommet that seals the hole in the panel for wiring might also be worth checking for cracks.

Well, I torque to 95Nm and that works very well. The lugs come off six months later with a little bit of force on the Subaru lug wrench. Mind you, I do lubricate the stud threads. I tried torquing up to the 100Nm that my local dealer insists on, and this makes the lugs quite hard to remove after a few months. You can probably rectify the judder by removing cleaning and retorqing as suggested above. I run the lugs up in increments. Hand tighten, torque to 40Nm, then 60Nm and finally 95Nm. I find this centers the wheels perfectly and ensures that there is no vibration - even at 100mph. (Isn't 1lb ft cirka 1.3Nm ??)

What they said..... ..and, don't forget that you also have access from below.

Anyone done handbrake turns in that car?

Welcome aboard namesake! My real non nerdy-computer alias is Emil, too

Yeah, get genuine parts or Bosal or Walker. The last two will NOT last as long, but they beat all the no-name stuff. I would strongly recommend applying a coat of heat resistant paint to the new pipe before installation. It won't stop the rust dead, but it will delay things considerably.

Anyone here tried EBC "Redstuff Ceramic"?? EBC pads were really crap in the past, but new leadership has perhaps changed that - but I'm not brave enough to throw money at EBC pads before someone reliable vouches for them.

Yes, Mobil 1 5W-30 for winter. I use 5W-50 in summer, but I do take my car on trackdays...otherwise 5W-40 is okay for summer.

I do believe the factory method is to slide a two-pronged fork in there and hammer on the end of the fork. This will pull evenly and slip the tie-rod end out. A crow bar won't apply even pressure and you can't get that rod out if you don't pull straight.

Wait! Before you get too worked up, try draining the gear oil and refilling with some Valvoline Synpower 75W-90. This oil has stopped many gearboxes grinding. The 6MT not only has strong synchro' rings, but the gear teeth are twice as wide as those in the 5MT. Driving habits: If you often brake hard from high speed to a sharp corner and simultaneously force the stick into a lower gear like 2nd or 3rd coming 5th or 6th, you will kill the syncrho rings pretty quick. Under those circumstances, you MUST double de-clutch and match the revs.

Yep, I'm with Josh. I run in those temps and while the cabin heater can't quite produce blast furnace heat in slow city traffic, the temp needle shows normal and I stay warm.

ALL generalisations are dangerous

Ok, here's a question: What do the Japanese sedans that also have a rear wiper use for fluid?

120k and above.

Yep, a lot those fluids are "rated" for one temperature, but the small print admits that "lumps of ice" may form before the fluid freezes over. The lowest pump on my car is the one for the headlight washers, next up is the front screen wash. IF I had a turbo, the Intercooler water spray would be the next step up. The bottle has the molding for the pump. Probably where your rear screen pump lives. Does that mean station wagons with Turbo can't have IC water spray?

I would suggest finding a 5W-40 oil - perhaps 5W-50 if you find their is oil consumption. 5W-40 will start easy in winter and not thin out so much at high temps. (xW-30 oil is fine for winter use only) The timing belt covers should show signs of recent work, like being clean or having finger prints all over. If you can open one side of the covers, you can visually inspect the belt. I would agree with Jerry though, replace the belt if you are in doubt! I think the yellow oil you found is the front differential. There should be another dipstick back there for the gearbox itself. That'll have red fluid in it - as you would expect. There's one more diff at the rear. This one and the front take 75W-90 API GL5.

Yes, an old or non-genuine thermostat could produce these symptoms.

Ferrit has it down.