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Setright

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Everything posted by Setright

  1. Once again, I am with Texan The WRX is plenty car for the money. The STi does offer some added STimulation on tracks if you are brave enough, and the extra 50hp is useful for traffic light Grands Prix. Back in the normal day-to-day real world, a WRX will cost less to fuel, insure, and draw less unwanted attention. Yet you'll be having just as much fun!
  2. Okay, so living in Denmark and listening to that little man with a hammer banging on my engine after a frosty morning cold start, I have been researching and testing a range of different oils. A few days ago, I tried yet another new oil, and this time I may have cracked it! Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 NOW, before the arguments begin, here's a list of the other oils I have tried: Mobil 1 5W-50 Mobil 1 5W-40 Mobil 1 5W-30 Mobil 1 0W-40 Castrol GTX 10W-40 Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 Redline 10W-40 Shell Ultra 5W-40 So, a Diesel engine oil works best! Delvac 1 is API-SL approved so it's perfectly safe in petrol engines. However, compared to almost every other 5W-40 oil, it has the highest viscosity at low temps. Yet it thins out nicely to comply the engine tolerances at operating temperature. This last point is a "worry" when using Mobil 1 5W-50 oil, because the oil could be considered too thick to circulate fast enough, and also strain the oil pump unnecessarily. Most 5W-xx oils have a viscosity of 75-80 centistokes at 40C, but Delvac 1 comes in at 102cst. So henceforth, Delvac 1 5W-40 is my recommendation for the best oil to quell that nasty piston slap. Sound is muted, far less metallic, and goes away quickly.
  3. Yep, nice one frag! Blitz, you may also consider that not ALL the old oil drains out.. In related News: My gearbox takes 3.5 liters, but I have learned that adding 3.3 even after a long drip-drip-drip draining, will be enough to raise it to the max level.
  4. Yes. If for some reason you are forced to put in a "too low" octane, then staying below 4000rpm and avoiding full throttle would lower the risk a great deal.
  5. I like the vacuum gauge method. Hands in exhaust streams are a not really precise tests. By the way, and engine is a little more than an air pump, since the fuel explosion creates a much larger volume exitting than entering the engine. Those gauge reading tips have taken this into account - they note ignition timing as causing some problems.
  6. Yeah, what IS it with these mechs? I ALWAYS re-install the plugs and bolts and nuts on the car with a torque wrench. It's easy and it's much safer in the long run, since nothing is stressed further than necessary. Kev, your oil pan will need replacing, the drain-bolt is gonna hurt something on the way out :-\
  7. In theory, but the high pressure in the combustion chamber - due to turbocharging - could lead to expensive pre-ignition.
  8. Chef and Frag said most of want I wanted to say. One more point though: The steering rack could be the worn part.
  9. My Forester Turbo manual says minimum RON 95. HOWEVER, we measure octane on a different scale over here. We basically have three available at the pumps: 92, 95, and 98 - Germans also have 100 for the FSi engines. SO, don't try to save pennies on the lowest octane fuel and then lose dollars on a blown engine.
  10. "Burping"? Did you try idling with the rad cap off, waiting til the cooling fans come on, top off, install rad cap, fill overflow to FULL mark. ?
  11. I think yer man means the "hood scoop". Maybe too many dead insects in there?
  12. Before you tear the engine apart, you might as well fit a new radiator cap (yours may have two, one on the header tank) and thermstat. YES, get a new gasket for the thermostat. Search for "coolant replacement bubbles" and you'll find my way of filling these engines with coolant.
  13. Head bolts are not to be used twice. They are stretched in the tightening process. NAPA parts? No idea, since I live in Europe. But I would go for genuine Sube parts.
  14. I would reckon that your 2.5 engine is the "old" design with the 75mm stroke and huge bore - 105mm?. The head gaskets are stressed enough already, turbocharging that engine will lead to problems. The new 2.5 engines have 79mm stroke and bore just under 100mm. Room for forced induction... I think your best bet would be to swap in a used 2.0 litre turbo, or perhaps spend some serious money a new 2.5 turbo?
  15. Yes, start by having a look under the hood. Maybe the Legacy has a circular brake fluid reservoir on top a single stage booster. The Outback is just new enough to have the square reservoir, on top of two-staged booster??? Second on has much softer pedal feel. IF they are the same, I second the idea above about bleeding the brakes.
  16. Yep, that's where I'd start. I had some trouble fitting that cable after replacing the bulbs.
  17. "Boom" ??? If the selector will move into position, but there is no drive, that means somehow the actuall cogs have been damaged. Driving with chunks of cogwheels inside the tranny is dangerous, they could get in the way and cause wheel lock-up, leading to an uncontrolled skid. If the selector isn't moving into the 2nd gear postion, then the synchro rings are toasted and you can probably drive on without big risks. It would be advisable to drain the oil and have a look at what comes out!
  18. I like the bigger engine idea. The EJ18 in your car will be hard to tune. You'll need custom grinding of the camshafts to make a real improvement. That'll cost a bit. Then you need a custom ECU program to make it work. EJ22 is the way forward
  19. rubgy, there is no difference in power strokes. It's only the balance. And the sound blitz, it's true. A V8 Ferrari sounds like two four cylinder engines competing for attention. I like the burble of 90 degree crankshaft
  20. Yep, loving the climate control and storage space too! The front end look did take some getting used to for me. Now I really like it, just needed time to learn the design "language". AND, the suspension is much better calibrated than the 2005 model. I can't believe how little squat and dive there is. I test a drove an 05 model a year ago and it seemed to tip onto it's front bumper during braking.
  21. Yep, loving the climate control and storage space too! The front end look did take some getting used to for me. Now I really like it, just needed time to learn the design "language".
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