-
Posts
3176 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Setright
-
Once again, I am with Texan The WRX is plenty car for the money. The STi does offer some added STimulation on tracks if you are brave enough, and the extra 50hp is useful for traffic light Grands Prix. Back in the normal day-to-day real world, a WRX will cost less to fuel, insure, and draw less unwanted attention. Yet you'll be having just as much fun!
-
Okay, so living in Denmark and listening to that little man with a hammer banging on my engine after a frosty morning cold start, I have been researching and testing a range of different oils. A few days ago, I tried yet another new oil, and this time I may have cracked it! Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 NOW, before the arguments begin, here's a list of the other oils I have tried: Mobil 1 5W-50 Mobil 1 5W-40 Mobil 1 5W-30 Mobil 1 0W-40 Castrol GTX 10W-40 Castrol Magnatec 5W-40 Redline 10W-40 Shell Ultra 5W-40 So, a Diesel engine oil works best! Delvac 1 is API-SL approved so it's perfectly safe in petrol engines. However, compared to almost every other 5W-40 oil, it has the highest viscosity at low temps. Yet it thins out nicely to comply the engine tolerances at operating temperature. This last point is a "worry" when using Mobil 1 5W-50 oil, because the oil could be considered too thick to circulate fast enough, and also strain the oil pump unnecessarily. Most 5W-xx oils have a viscosity of 75-80 centistokes at 40C, but Delvac 1 comes in at 102cst. So henceforth, Delvac 1 5W-40 is my recommendation for the best oil to quell that nasty piston slap. Sound is muted, far less metallic, and goes away quickly.
-
Dipstick Thing
Setright replied to blitz's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Yep, nice one frag! Blitz, you may also consider that not ALL the old oil drains out.. In related News: My gearbox takes 3.5 liters, but I have learned that adding 3.3 even after a long drip-drip-drip draining, will be enough to raise it to the max level. -
I like the vacuum gauge method. Hands in exhaust streams are a not really precise tests. By the way, and engine is a little more than an air pump, since the fuel explosion creates a much larger volume exitting than entering the engine. Those gauge reading tips have taken this into account - they note ignition timing as causing some problems.
-
Yeah, what IS it with these mechs? I ALWAYS re-install the plugs and bolts and nuts on the car with a torque wrench. It's easy and it's much safer in the long run, since nothing is stressed further than necessary. Kev, your oil pan will need replacing, the drain-bolt is gonna hurt something on the way out :-\
-
My Forester Turbo manual says minimum RON 95. HOWEVER, we measure octane on a different scale over here. We basically have three available at the pumps: 92, 95, and 98 - Germans also have 100 for the FSi engines. SO, don't try to save pennies on the lowest octane fuel and then lose dollars on a blown engine.
-
I would reckon that your 2.5 engine is the "old" design with the 75mm stroke and huge bore - 105mm?. The head gaskets are stressed enough already, turbocharging that engine will lead to problems. The new 2.5 engines have 79mm stroke and bore just under 100mm. Room for forced induction... I think your best bet would be to swap in a used 2.0 litre turbo, or perhaps spend some serious money a new 2.5 turbo?
-
Yes, start by having a look under the hood. Maybe the Legacy has a circular brake fluid reservoir on top a single stage booster. The Outback is just new enough to have the square reservoir, on top of two-staged booster??? Second on has much softer pedal feel. IF they are the same, I second the idea above about bleeding the brakes.
-
"Boom" ??? If the selector will move into position, but there is no drive, that means somehow the actuall cogs have been damaged. Driving with chunks of cogwheels inside the tranny is dangerous, they could get in the way and cause wheel lock-up, leading to an uncontrolled skid. If the selector isn't moving into the 2nd gear postion, then the synchro rings are toasted and you can probably drive on without big risks. It would be advisable to drain the oil and have a look at what comes out!
-
Yep, loving the climate control and storage space too! The front end look did take some getting used to for me. Now I really like it, just needed time to learn the design "language". AND, the suspension is much better calibrated than the 2005 model. I can't believe how little squat and dive there is. I test a drove an 05 model a year ago and it seemed to tip onto it's front bumper during braking.