Setright

It's the most likely part. If you do decide/need to replace plugs I would recommend NGK, model BKR6E-11

Myths are plentiful. I have used K&N for many years without problems.

No adverse effects, IF your engine is fine and isn't starting because of a faulty starter or low battery voltage. However, if your ignition isn't working, you will find that the injectors put out fuel and foul the catalyst. Ok, they don't always pop, but you can bet it will stop working.

It can be done, BUT the risk is getting fuel into the cat and a big POP! When it explodes. It'll cost you a new catalyst.

That is not enough consumption to cause alarm. However, servicing your PCV system could reduce it.

You don't HAVE to remove the cam covers, but it does help position things. The camshafts even have a "nut" cast into them to allow a wrench to hold and turn it precisely. IF, the dealer removed the cam covers, they should've fitted new gaskets. Or, since this a common failing on boxer engines, it's just a coincidence.

I like this one http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=coolant

Fan is are thermostatically controlled. The other is controlled by the aircon compressor.

Well, some people believe it plays a part in extraction of hot air from the engine bay. Others who have temperature gauges mounted in the oil passageways have noted BETTER cooling without the shields in place. On trackdays. So, I think its mainly good for keeping salt water and stones off the sump, which is nice in winter.

YEah, what MWATT says. Good advice. Especially the thing about mental state. Don't rush it the first time, the learning curve can be steep.

We'll we cheering for you Coyote!

Texan, it's an Impreza for sure. I see this very sight every other day...

That is an Impreza, for sure. But it's just a commercial, so they just used that car for the photo. NO Subaru Diesels yet. Next year they will be here.

Toothed idler for the timing belt, lives next to the water pump. Always replace that. Depending on condition, you might need to replace one of the smooth idlers (noisy bearings) and/or the belt tensioner (leaking oil?)

My impression is that they sold you the parts for an Impreza...which is that much shorter! Or the part number is right, but someone a bad part was produced and shipped. Got another car? Take both parts down to the store and show them the difference!

Not me. But I am like Al_Semc...get in, set the seat, set the mirrors, look around for all the switches.

I like that suggestion Cookie!

Keep the reservoir topped up. If you are only losing a small amount, don't worry about it. The steering will not suddenly stop working, but you might lose the assistance, which will make low speed manouvres harder.

Did you get NGK plugs? Subes seem to like these best. I think BKR6E-11 are the ones you'd want. Plug gap is 1.1mm

If there is no cat in it, that means it meant for an earlier model, and that could mean slightly different hanger points. The right new part will sit right. No adjustment is possible - unless you count cutting/welding as an adjustment :-)

Honest officer! There is nothing odd about a car being a bit jerky in first gear with the engine low in the rev range. Subes are more susceptible than others, but all cars do this.

Yeah, but maybe the cold Scandinavian climate is to blame. Or maybe it's a gas thing. Lowest RON here is 92. I run 95.

In fact, my Euro spec car is factory fitted with 5 range. I recently swapped them for 6 range after a few trackdays seemed to wear the 5 range too fast, and I find my engine is doing very well indeed. Summary: Setright recommends 6 range for all but the grannies ;-)

5 range is recommend for "city driving" and lots of shorter trips, with low revs. 6 plugs, especially Iridium will work very well for anything but lots of short trips. Short is less than five miles. IMHO :-)

I put them inside. The reason? I can SEE how worn the outside ones are by looking through the wheel!