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Everything posted by Setright
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As the others say, could be the window sealing problem. Still, it would be worth checking around the windshield for loose bits of trim. Those black seals must be clipped on tight and flush with the glass. I had a windscreen replaced and the dealer didn't intall the correct mounting brackets causing the windscreen to sink too low into the frame. The seals couldn't seal and sat slighty proud of the glass in some areas. I had a cacophony to deal with at highway speeds. Got it fixed though, after another stone cracked that screen....
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Yes, keep harrassing the dealer, they better make it work! Things to check: Clutch, is there the correct amount of freeplay? Too much and the clutch won't disengage fully and this will cause hard shifting. Engine running, at standstill, in neutral, push forward firmly on the stick toward third gear. DON'T force it! Then, start press the clutch pedal down slowly, keeping pressure on the stick. About 2/3rds down the gearstick should slip into 3rd gear. Meaning that the clutch pedal will still move down another two inches or so after the gear is selected. If your clutch adjustment is wrong, the stick won't go in until the pedal is almost at the floor. Subaru geaboxes are "recalcitrant" and stiff, making them sensitive to the correct gear oil and clutch adjustment. Also, the presence of two differentials inside the gearbox makes shifting tougher. However, they aren't as bad as yours seems to be.
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My present favourite for winter is Bridgestone Blizzak LM18. Very impressed with this as it's not only capable in snow, but performs far better in wet conditions than any winter tyre I can remember. Danish weather conditions necessitate a good wet weather tyre, since snow is only sporadic. Summer is also Bridgestone, RE720, which again perform very nicely in wet weather.
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I have had good results using Shell's pre-mixed 50/50 solution. Castrol doesn't seem to last - had a lab tech analyse it cause it was loosing colour and it was turning acidic after only a few thousand miles. Be aware that you MUST stick with the glycol based stuff, which usually means green or blue. Red and orange has a different base and will sludge up when mixed with the old coolant.
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axxiom, as you can see, there is nothing to fear. I have also run K&N in my cars for big mileages and no problems. The dead MAF's that Texan brought to light is probably what has started the debate again. My Legacy did 70K miles in my ownership with a K&N and MAF, and ZERO problems. The K&N sacrificies a little filtration for a lot of flow gain. (3% points worse vs. a 27% point advantage). However, as mentioned, the bits that slip by are miniscule and don't cause engine wear. From racing mechs I have heard that these bits DO cause increased drag in the oil and therefore cost horsepower in the long run. I change my oil every 6k miles of street driving, so I doubt I am affected by this.
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oil burning?
Setright replied to Midwst's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Quit the panic people! As I understand, the car is using/losing one liter of oil for every 3000km. That's nothing. Even the Germans all insist that up to one liter per 1000km is still fine. (Yep, this is stated clearly in VW and Audi manuals). The engine won't die suddenly UNLESS you forget to top off the oil. Keep the car, and always have a quart of oil in the trunk. Monitor the oil level every 600 miles - on a cold, level parked engine. As mentioned, a slighty thicker oil would be good. Enjoy! -
Here come my contribution: Valve opening, a glossary by Setright: Valve Timing: Degrees related to the crankshaft rotation and therefore piston height in the cylinder. Indirectly related to ignition timing. Valve Lift: How far does the valve lift off the seat at the highest point. Valve Duration: How long does the valve spend away from it's seat. What RallyKeith explained the first time has been used in MG/Rover engines and is more a question of duration than timing. Valve Overlap: What length of time is spent with both intake and exhaust valves open. Large overlap gives the crappy idle talked about already, but excellent purging of the cumbustion chamber at higher revs. And also plenty of raw fuel into the exhaust - either killing catalysts or making the bangs that makes a highly strung race engine sound cool!
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First off all: Maybe the noise is normal. Subaru gearboxes are noisy from new. A continuous whirring is to be expected. Only if it's uneven or punctuated by clacking/rumbling sounds should you worry. In the input shaft bearing is very worn, the car will occasionally jump out of first gear as you engage the clutch and move off. That's when you need to replace the bearings pronto! As for the oil, synth is fine, but different brands have different attributes. How is the shift from 2nd to 3rd in yours now? It should be a little bit sticky/stiff/recalcitrant but not make any crunching noises. My favourite trans oils for Subaru are Castrol "Syntorq" and Valvoline "Synpower". Both in the 75W-90 weight.
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piston slap?
Setright replied to Midwst's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
The EJ20 I have slaps in the morning. And I am not alone here in Europe. My 1990 EJ22 never slapped. Ticked three times on start-up, but it cured itself.