Setright

Thanks guys, for some reason the lads on Imprezasport.net seem to believe this theory. I was hoping you would support me :-) I would also worry about unburnt fuel reaching the catalyst during such a dry-crank manouvre. Although the missing crank sensor would hopefully mean that the ECU keeps the injectors shut. Check it out: http://www.imprezasport.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=4036

Is it manual or auto? Manual will have two drain plugs: on the engine oil pan the plug is angled, sitting next to the exhaust manifold on one side. The transmission plug is pointing straight down, and is close to the exhaust pipe. It's quite a big plug. The auto will of course also have the drain plug on the engine oil pan. However, there will be two drain plugs on the transmission. The one closest to the engine is the front differential, and the one further back is the geabox itself. You would want to drain the diff I think. Now, be careful when you loosen the plug. If it's stubborn, get a long extension on your wrench, for goodness sake don't hit it with anything. Try to find a new washer for the plug, and don't overtighten the plug when you re-install it. The spec is 40Nm. Don't use the extension when you tighten it. A wrech about eight inches long should give you enough leverage. Tighten until the plug won't move easily anymore.

That's not a clutch cable, they connect to a fork on the other side of the engine.

I have been confronted with a theory that seems a little absurd to me: After changing oil, disconnect the crank sensor and crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes out. The idea is to ensure that all the oil galleries are primed before you allow the ignition to come on. Yes, the filter is primed during the oil change. The word is that "Subaru's are notorious for throwing a big end bearing after oil changes". Anyone ever heard of this????????

Sure looks like the speedo cable to me. Too far back to be engine oil. Auto tranny as far as I can deduce, which means that it's your front differential leaking. That uses 75W-90 oil. Drain it and refill with the correct amount.

Logically, it can hardly be clutch related. The shunt must stem from the engine and transmission mounts. They are probably just soft and goo-ey to stop noise entering the cabin. Of course, excessive drivetrain slack could also cause the problem, but that would take an obscene amount of gear-wear to arrive so quickly. Maybe the dealer lifts the engine out to replace the clutch and puts new engine mounts in? Some people have apparently had succes with stiffer engine mounts - STi parts.

Yep, flat as a flat thing. Keeps the wind blowing though :-)

Yes, they are not cheap! But they will last a long time. UNlike the ones that the car came with from the factory.

Yeah, just plastic rivets that are pressed into rubber-rings. Easy.

I though she had some sort of accident...and those were double airbags :-)

Holstebro, eh? Nearly Hillbilly country ;-)

Chip, that would be part of the idea. Extend drain intervals. You could do like me and replace oil and filter between 6 and 7 k miles. Or, as I am starting to consider, replace the filter at 5k, top up the oil, and not actually drain until you reach 10k. That would easily match the price of mineral.

I already did that! 100,000km timing belt. 50k km coolant and trans oil. 12,500km engine oil. Remember, that is from the manual.

Well, my experience with many cars, over many years has been an improvement of 4-5% when they were switched to Mobil 1. I am not talking about brand new cars that were only just running in.

Erm...well..the best objective proof I can muster is that Porsche and AMG choose Mobil 1. BMW selects Castrol's fully synth. At least that means these oils aren't crap.

Timing belt at 62k or four years. That's the REALLY important one. Engine oil and filter at 7k. Manual transmission and Differentials at 30K. (Not sure on the automatic) Coolant at 2 years or 30k.

EXACTLY! Better to have the wheels on ice spin away the excess torque, as with open diffs. LSD will keep power going to those two on the pavement and produce a serious amount of yaw. Even if it's only the rear that has LSD.

Yes, did it on my EJ22

Check all the rubber hoses, one of them might have fallen off.

Josh, some dealers here in Denmark recommend a straight 85 og 90 gear oil. I of course have turned to a new religion and insist on using Castrol TAF-X, which is 75W-90 and really flatters the Subaru gearbox. AKA "Syntorq" stateside. If you want a good drive: Get your car on a freight ship and we can meet at the Nürburgring "Nordschleife". I am planning to go again next summer :-)

Your headgasket problem, compression leaking into the coolant, causes overheating by producing tiny bubbles in the coolant. The pressure drop across the water pump has a tendency to expand these bubbles so that they collect and cause a gas pocket in the water pump. This stops the coolant circulation, and your engine overheats. Without the t-stat, there is enough flow to keep the bubbles moving. This is only a temporary fix, the HG leak will grow and you risk mixing oil and water and wearing out the engine very fast. Start saving for the HG repair!

Gearbox main bearings. Drain the oil and check it for metal shavings.

agreed.

No. Your Sube would have to spin two wheels, that takes more effort than the Merc to spin just one.

Blitz ! Ranger, I cite the Porsche and AMG choice to highlight the protection of Mobil 1. Of course, you cannot overlook their desire to free up as much power to the wheels, instead of losing it in the oil.