Setright

Or smear a thin coating of copper grease on the hub!

They must be re-torqued. Some "settling" of the rim and hub will occur and this causes the nuts to loosen. I usually drive for a day (ca.60miles) and re-torque the next morning, while the rims are cold. There is often one "loose" nut per wheel, and from then on no problems. It does help to torque the nuts in stages when you mount the rims.

Push it back up. Carefully, with a fingernail to avoid skin contact.

You could repeat the process. First time you probably replaced about 50%, so second time round it will be 75% new. Subaru have done away with the radiator bleeder screw by clever design. The little bulge that the radiator cap mounts on will collect passing air bubble because its the highest point in the system. Or, that's the theory anyway!

Sorry, no idea :-(

Stay AWAY from EBC pads. They will produce brake judder. Every time. EBC rotors are a good thing, though. Get them and stick with OE pads. You will be surprised by how much better braking you get due to the grooves. They keep the pad surface clean and ready, and when you really start to use the brakes, they let the gas of out pads. Or if you can get them, Mintex M1144 pads are serving me very well. I have been though the EBC mill, and please take my advice to stay away!

Are you certain that you need it?? It looks to me like the idle air hose and the design was changed on the Subaru engine. The idle air is routed around the throttle valve on the throttle body in my car. Do you have a picture of your own engine bay?

I think you will find that a higher pressure on a normal clutch lining will work best. Most race-inspired stuff has some downsides that are best avoided in daily cars. I expect any "paddle" clutch to be jerky and a PIA around town.

In my experience, over fifteen years, the drain plugs on Sube transmissions has always been a "regular" washer. Either copper or aluminium, which will crush to some extent. Always replace them. Only the spark plugs and oil pan use crush washers. Always replace these too! I am sorry, but I can't help on the exact size, but I expect the inner diameter to be around 20mm. 3mm wide washer, and 1-2mm thick.

ok

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If the noise goes away when you disengage the cluch, it's the gearbox. The early Legacies had weak main bearings, so you probably got another weak model at the junkyard :-(

If you do decide on chains, front wheels only please!

Oh yeah, a new PCV valve would also be good idea, keeps the crankcase pressure down, and hence the oil has less incentive to seep out.

LOL frag! On a serious note: The cam, crankshaft, oil pump, and rocker cover seals are all prone to leaks. Replace them along with the timing belt.

Here is the link to a guide on flushing and filling the cooling system, written by me! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=coolant+replacement I would recommend Castrol DOT4 "Response" brake fluid. A litre should be enough. Above have been mentioned to separate brake line flush methods, sucking on the caliper bleeder, or pushing fluid out via the brake pedal. Both work, but DON'T try to combine them! No matter which you chose, soak the bleeder screw in WD-40 or similar before opening, and use a full wrench on it, not an open end. The bleeder screws tend to stick and an open-end will chew the nut. Power steering fluid is probably easiest to just draw out of the reservoir and refill. Run the engine to circulate. Repeat once. This won't replace all the fluid, but you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference.

Rain-X the windscreen and your wipers will never need to run beyond "intermittent".

My saying of the week: "The Devil you know, is better than the Devil you don't." ALL cars have gone downhill in quality. Most of the Germans have serious electrical problems - Porsche excluded - and Mercedes are rusting like old Subes used to. I think the penny-pinching has been designed to keep the share-holders happy, and nevermind the customers. I suggest staying with Subaru, because you will be dissapointed elsewhere too, and the Devil you know!

Get new hoses, cut the old ones, and lube the pipes on the new filter before installation. And get some antiseptic on those knuckles!

Yeah, but I park on the street, and I don't want to pay for a gasoline driven engine heater. Also, I don't want someone fiddling with my fuel and coolant systems to install the thing. Piston slap will surely be less, but the pistons run much hotter than any engine heater. I wish I had a house and a garage.

Gummiphledge = rubber-care

Don't buy a car you haven't even seen in the metal. I would never buy a car that I hadn't seen up on a lift. Let alone never seen at all!

Well, Danish price would in the region of $2000. I expect it will be cheaper stateside, since y'all have less taxes on your goods. Even so, this would be the time to decide on keeping or trading, the cost of an entire exhaust represents a large portion of the car's value.

At that mileage, your consumption is nothing to worry about. Just keep and eye on it. And the coolant level too! Whistling sound is most likely a leak in the intake system. You should check all the pipework from the air filter box and up to the throttle body, but ultimately I would suspect the intake manifold gasket. Shouldn't be too hard to replace.

Erm....eh.....is that the Forester XT Turbo, or the original Subaru XT coupé from the eighties? I assumme the Forester, and I would choose the Outback. Better handlind, better looking, and that six-cylinder makes a lovely sound :-)