Setright

How about sound files of the car actually running. Nevermind the scantily clad women, they are irrelevant to this car. It doesn't need cheap tricks to advertise it. The car is plenty. I never understood the girl on the bonnet/hood thing, anyway.

Can anyone confirm the existence of an occasional clonk noise during low speed, turning manouvres over "rough" terrain, such as a speed bump or small ramp? I have known many Subaru's to do this, and seem to recall a TSB on the matter. Anyone have any documentation? Please!

Coasting should be done in gear, the ECU shuts off the fuel injectors above 1500rpm if the accelerator is untouched and the car is still moving. Agreed: Get rid of any unnecessary clobber in the car. Spare tyre is optional, depending on how far away from home you venture. On the same line, don't fill the gas tank to the brim, it may be slight but it adds to the weight you have to drag around. Make sure all four tyres are properly inflated. Five if you carry the spare. The biggest and easiest method is to avoid more than half-throttle acceleration, and not actually stop at traffic lights. Brake early and just crawl toward the lights, hopefully they turn green before you come to a stop. Takes a large amount of energy to move the car from standstill.

Is that photo of the 22B outside the sandwhich bar real?? Or has the car been superimposed? I only ask because there are people in the background who are not on their hands and knees worshipping the Impreza

Half that amount, if what we read here on the site is true. However, the EJ25 might just blow the HG again....!

Not to my knowledge - which is limited....but I have not heard of this configuration in Europe.

The non-genuine parts will never last as long. Especially when we are talking about a Subaru exhaust. They are worth the extra dosh. 250 pounds is quite reasonable, compared to Danish prices. Make sure they fit a brand new gasket!

The only way would be to weld to it, but that's dangerous because you could ignite the fumes!! I doubt any putty or sealant could stand up to the attack gasoline would make on it. I think you're looking at replacing the entire fuel tank. That's the correct thing to do.

Yes Ranger. Your math is fine, and the dimension difference tolerated is 1/4 of an inch in circumference. However, what we are doing is judging by the size of the potential repair bill, compared to the expected saving up front. Risk vs. Consequence. The risk is small, but the consequence is large.

Gravity bleeding is probably not going to be very complete. I suggest pumping fluid out via the brake pedal. DON'T push the pedal all the way til it stops, only about half-way, to keep the piston seals happy. Also, the ABS thing: Leave the ignition off. There will be some brake fluid in the ABS pump that does not get flushed. A quick drive in the rain, with a few ABS activating stops will mix the pump fluid with the new fluid in the rest of the system. In principle, you should then bleed the system again, but it's not strictly necessary. Make sure there is no one behind you when you brake! I have no time to a full write-up, and I would strongly recommend reading the Haynes Manual for the Legacy before you begin bleeding. That way, you won't make any silly mistakes. Also, have someone help you. Preferably someone you trust and who knows how to handle tools!

Engine is still piston-slapping in the morning...bought a new oil filter in case it's related to the ADV.

What's so special? Not only all those "little" things, but the fact that it hasn't been surpassed yet. All the Sti WRX models are soft compared to this pinnacle. Hats off to 666 for refusing to sell it to a dealer. That enthusiast could be me...if only I won the lottery.

The dealer here uses aluminium washers. These do get squashed a bit, but are not real crush washers. I agree that only a loose pan-bolt will leak any considerable amount of oil. The question that bothers me is "Why didn't the oil pressure warning light come on?" 1.5 quarts is not enough to keep the pressure up. Of course, the 4.5 quarts that left in silence are also stupifying.

Sounds like a wheel bearing. The rear bearings are weaker for some odd reason. If it's the rear left bearing, the noise should get worse in left turns, and almost dissappear in right turns.

The correct and official answer is no. The law-suit-avoiding answer is also no. Finally, from a personal, car-caring, long-term wise-ness point of view: No. Saving a few dollars now will only see you wasting a big sum of your hard-earned on a major repair further down the line. Rotate the new tyres every 6k miles if you have the energy. I find that every 12k keeps them well within specs, and this also means I only rotate when I swap over from winter to summer tyres and back again! (Hold on to the good tyres, they might come in handy as spares later on.)

Gotta love the chain decision, those things don't need replacing all the time! As for the oil leak potential, just make sure you run a good synthetic oil, like Mobil 1, to keep the seals as new :-)

I doubt it has the same weakness. It's an EJ201 with an extra two cylinders, like the old EG33 was a stretched EJ22, so it should be good!

After running Mobil 1 again for about 120 miles, the cold start piston slap has subsided considerably. With a bit of luck it will be totally gone tommorrow!

Yes indeed! The name does give it away I suppose. You can't accuse them of false advertsing..

Yes. Bridgestone, Vredestein, Michelin, and many others do make low-pro winter tyres. Of course anything lower than a 50 series tyre will not be ideal for winter conditions because they tend to "break away" more suddenly when grip is low. A 205/50 R16 would still look good, and offer enough feedback to your confidence up on snowy roads.

Well, my local Mobil supplier only had the old 0W-40, API SJ. Therefore I decided to stick with my "summer" 5W-50, API SL. These viscosites are available here in Europe, the xW-30'ies are rare over here...go figure? Car had only done about 30 miles back on Mobil 1 when I cold started it yesterday evening. AND THE PISTON SLAP WAS STILL THERE! I am praying for it to dissappear again as the Mobil 1 washes away the Redline. Btw, I emptied the oil filter, and reused it - primed of course! Including postage from England I paid about $90 for five quarts of Redline 10W-40. I considered this as it drained out, considerably darker than when I has poured it it, only two days before. Either it has cleaned up my engine real well, or the oil has not stood up to use? Mobil 1 5W-50 is currently available at about $58 for the required four litres. I use Sube filters, at $16. They are now coming from Japan, are tiny, and have a anti-drain-back valves. Needless, to say, I will be reluctant to experiment with oils in the future. I did not forsee such a big difference in oils. I can now rest assured that my insistence on Mobil 1 is not just plain religion or blindsighted or narrowminded. I am going to work now, may the mighty forces that be have rid my Impreza of it's newfound piston slap during the night!!!

The handbook says chains go on the front only! Also, the recommended speed is very low, I can't remember it exactly, but it's less than 30mph!

The thing to look out for is that all the pieces are interlocked. The rear edge has a hook or tab, sticking underneath the next section. I broke one of these on my Legacy because I didn't know...had to glue the thing in upon assembly. So, in short, you really should start from the rear of the car. That means the rear seat must come out first, which will give clear access to the rearmost plastic panels that cover the C pillar. It's a long journey!

I don't think this method will actually flush the engine block. Pouring cold water in continuosly will mean that the thermostat never opens, and the coolant in the engine block will circulate in a closed loop. The radiator will clean, though, but tha's only half the coolant capacity. So pouring in 50/50 mix will give a final of 75/25, and therefore lower the heat capacity of the coolant.

You could have a tiny hole in the gas tank. The fumes can be drawn into the cabin.