Setright

The driver's side access is improved by removing the screws securing the washer fluid bottle. Doesn't have to come out, just move it forward. Plugs should only be torqued to 15Nm, which is basically until they provide resistance to a light grip. A good spark socket has a rubber tube in it to hold the plug, add one 8 inch extension and start the plug by hand, using no lever on the end of the extension. I use a torque wrench to tighten the last stretch.

That's cheap, even if it only lasts a month! Buy it, drive it, and see if the new oil can wash away the sludge that is likely causing the clatter - tappets. I would run a full synthetic 5W-40 oil and replace the oil filter after 600 miles, and top off the oil.

Let's face it, switching to synthetic in any point of a car's life will make your life a misery. Your neighbors won't talk to you anymore, the bank will close your account, your parents will disown you, and the car will explode within a few days.

Hmm, my Proxxon socket set must be just right for Subarus. I think the socket itself makes a big difference. I have two extensions, on is about 4 inches the other about 8 inches, and together with the non-ratchet driver I was able to pull the rear caliper supports off my Legacy - hadn't been touched in 12 years when I did them! I believe I used the 8 inch extension. And a foot long driver extension to get the torque. I agree that the uni-joint is not to be used for breaking bolts and nuts loose! How far a drive is it for you to come to Copenhagen??????

Bulbs are different in the states. You guys just have to be different, don't you?

Soak in WD40 or similar. At least twenty minutes, then tap lightly with a hammer and try again...

It cradles over the propshaft and rear diff, so they have to come out :-(

Valve lifter maybe? That produces a distince ticking noise, though. Slapping is pistons. Ever heard a Diesel Ford Transit van idling? THAT'S piston slap for you!

The magnet on the filter does sound like a great idea. However, isn't the filter media supposed to stop those particles? I replace my filter every 6k miles, along with the oil. Would anyone argue that the paper gets so clogged in that distance that the bypass valve opens and lets the particles circulate? If the particles are small enough to get through the filter paper, then they are so small as to be nearly harmless anyway. Also, I doubt a magnet would be able to stop them.

Has anyone here fitted this intake to their car? http://www.injen.com/webpages/intakes/intake_images/misc/rd1210p.jpg

For sure you wanna pack some good wool blankets and lots of chocolate. A huge thermos to keep tea hot in, would also allow the driver to survive longer and hopefully be rescued, should the unthinkable happen. I would like to second the battery suggestion. Consider rigging up a second, high capacity battery in the trunk. Preferably one that will provide current in those temperatures. Replace the standard spare tyre with one (or two) of the same type as you intend to fit on the car. Make sure they are pumped to the right pressure. Make sure you make a proper check-list of all your points, it would be dangerous to miss one out!

Silicone fluid needs replacing VERY often. Any moisture that finds it way into the system will collect at the bottom - in your calipers - and render the brakes useless. Don't do it. Go for Castrol "SRF" if you must have race quality brake fluid in there.

Okay, since no-one else has said it: Oil turns black from doing one of it's main jobs: removing carbon generated in the cumbustion process! Heat will also turn it black, but only if it's run far too hot. 6k intervals including OE filter. M1 5W-50.

Thick oil? Like I said, most of us here have very stringent programs for our oil. Even though we can never agree on synth vs. mineral, none of use an oil that is not suitable for pumping in cold weather.

Sorry cant help on price and where to buy. But I can confirm that a bad purge solenoide will give a rough idle.

Valid point. Even so, the valve is only supposed to open if the filter is clogged, and not many of us let our filters sit long enough for that to occur.

Subylvr, I would tend agree that a switch over to synth at high mileage would expose leaks. Maybe using synth from the early years would prevent those leaks developing at all. MAYBE! On consumption: Castrol's high-end "Formula RS" which is supposed to be the last word in high performance lubrication, has some odd specs. According to Castrol's own spec sheets, the best for turbo engines 10W60 burns off around 200 degrees centigrade. The much cheaper 0W-40 burns off around 230 degrees. What's that about? My guess is, it's on purpose. Castrol "program" in a slight oil consumption, so that high stressed engines - where 10W60 is recommended - keep getting a top off. This makes a big difference for the oil's long term performance. Any comments on that? It's like the SLX "Longlife" that Audi/VW insist their cars run on. They shout about their extended drain intervals of 30k miles, but rarely even whisper about the quart every 1-2k mile consumption!

I would expect Sube tensioners, bearings, and water pump to last until the second time around, at 120k miles. Interval is 60k.

Yes wheels need to come off. If the fluid is very old, it's a good idea to raise the whole car at once, either on a shop lift or on four jack stands, and remove all the wheels. That way you can work you way around the car twice, quite fast. Twice round is better than pumping lots of fluid through on a single round, imho. I am too tired right now to do a full write up. Suffice to say that you will need one litre of new brake fluid, WD40 or similar for the nipples on the brake calipers, and good tools. Especially for loosening the nipples, it's a royal pain if they strip. You would also do well to have another person to help you, someone whom you trust to work on your brakes. When pumping fluid using the brake pedal, dont let it go all the way to the floor.

Don't floor the loud pedal all the time. And stay in gear until the engine hits 1500rpm as you slow down to stop for lights - if it's manual.

Headgasket. When you opened the rad, it allowed the gas bubble in the water pump to escape, and coolant flowed through the engine, which is why the manifold suddenly got warmer. "Gas bubble" causes vapour lock and stops coolant circulation.

Why? Very good potential for: extended drain intervals, better power/economy, less noise, easier cold starts, cleaner exhaust, lower oil consumption. Why not? Because it might expose worn seals.

Parking lamp bulbs are in the owners handbook, if you have it. If not, open the bonnet, there is one screw to be undone at the top of either lamp. Both at the very front corners of the car. Once the screw is out, pry your fingers in behind the trailing edge of the lamp and it will pop out. Sounds easy, and sometimes it is, other times the lamps are reluctant to move forward at all. Once they are out, turn the bulb fitting counter-clockwise to undo it from the lamp. The bulb itself is easy to pull out. Haven't tried the defrost lamp yet, but I would guess that the whole assembly can be pried out.

Two temp sensors, one for the dash gauge and one the ECU. Obviously, its the second one that counts in this case. They are located right next to eachother in the pipe that collects coolant from the top of the engine and feeds it to the radiator. Search around the site, there are lots of references and photos to get smart with ;-)

Thanks! 3mm is plenty! 2mm would do the job, but I like to increase the margins. The pipe itself has 2mm walls, but there are two in each direction :-) 3mm is also nearing the limit of what can be bent accurately, without a machine.