Setright

If you are losing coolant internally, then you would experience some very rough running. Starting in the morning would be a real hassle, as the coolant in the combustion chamber would have to be evaporate out. A leak in the other direction, would leave traces of coolant on the overflow tank, since that is were it would leave the system.

Well, I run Mobil 1, 5W-50 and 0W-40. Depending on season. Both have served me well. I would hesistate to go under xW-40. Mobil 1 is now available as a 5W-40. I am going to try this next time. Castrol RS 0W-40 and Magnatec 5W-40, should also yield good results. This is my advice, and it's based on using Mobil 1 for the last 14 years in various cars. No doubt someone on this board will contest me, because oil is very much a "religion" :-) One thing is certain, stay away from Redline engine oil.

The main problem is that the raised level will reach the crankshaft and therefore it gets whipped up. This will cause air bubbles in the oil that is in the oil pan. How much "foam" depends on how high the oil reaches and how good the particular oil is at keeping foam down. If the foam reaches the oil pump it will cause pour oil circulation. Which is a serious problem. I would suggest that up to one quart over is still safe, but not an advantage.

How do they keep coming up with these wonder products??

http://www.turbonator.com/WhatIsIt.html

No. Looks cheap and the description is full of BS.

H6 is available in regular sedans here in Europe, so it might be worth checking with the dealer if it's available stateside. Optional 6-speed manual transsmission, too! Even so, and Outback is probably what you are looking for. Apart from Audi/VW and Volvo no-one makes anything that can compare directly to the AWD Subarus. SUV's are always gonna have bad mileage because of their XL size. Audi/VW products are expensive and the "4-Motion" four-wheel-drive is part time. And the Germans have some very annoying electrical problems that can leave you stranded. Subarus also have quirks/problems but they rarely give up entirely, meaning you can always get home. Volvo doesn't suffer any problems like the Germans, but it's still not cheap and only part-time 4WD.

Yeah, take it to the dealer. Please let us know what is causing the noise and how it gets solved. Could be useful reference for the future!

Make sure you relieve the fuel system pressure before you start on this. Either leave the car standing for 24 hours, or pull the fuel pump fuse and run the engine until it stalls. Failure to do this will see gasoline spraying from the hoses!

The timing belt needs replacement every 62k miles, so that's something you need to do right away. A full timing belt "kit" will include all the followers and tensioner wheels, plus a new tensioner. While you're in there, replace the rocker cover seals, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seal. At 120k miles, its time for a new water too. While that's off, you may as well put in a new thermostat. Replacing the actual belt is the only essential thing, but if you want another 120k miles from this car, you should do the other things too. General advice: Don't thrash the engine until it's warm, use Subaru oil and fuel filters, run Mobil 1 engine oil, Castrol for all the other fluids, and NGK "V" spark plugs. Check all the coolant hoses, including those for cabin heat, replace any that look tired. CV joint boots are prone to rupture, especially the front axles, so check them every month or so. Once they spill their grease, your bearings won't last long. Monitor your oil and coolant levels once a week, but that goes for any car!

Here's my suggestions: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=Coolant+replacement

Well, it does stop the air filter getting clogged by things like leaves, bugs, and other debris. I am certain someone here will chime in with the old "to stop water ingestion" reason. This is an overexposed and very rare problem. Besides, no matter where you put an air intake, it will ingest rain water. The best place to suck air from, is the fender cavity.

Yes, I would recommed synthetic. Mobil 1 is availablea as a 5W-50 grade over here, and it should be possible to source in the states too. That will slow you consumption. On a sidenote, stay away from Redline oil. I have tried it recently, and will be posting about the negatives I have experience. For now, suffice it to say: Avoid.

www.cobbtuning.com

Yeah! What "sea" said. Good advice.

It could be excessive slack in the rear differential, or a worn rear suspension bushing. Both should be easy to diagnose at a dealer, on a lift. Once the ABS pump is working, your brake pedal will do strange stuff. Don't worry about. Worry only if it feels weird under normal, non-ABS stops.

The SVX is heavy. That really covers both tranny and brake questions. The best solution would be to increase the volume and cooling of the tranny fluid, and fit some Mintex brake pads. M1155 should be the ticket for such a heavy car. M1144 if you live in a cold climate. Both these brake materials last a long time, so don't worry about the price. New discs are a must. You could also fit better discs. EBC discs aren't bad, and not too expensive over stock. Just stay away from EBC pads. They are useless. Oh, Ferodo pads are very good too. And the are less likely to squeal compared to Mintex. Although proper fitment is essential to avoid this with any pad. Bigger brake kits are overrated for road going cars. Plus they just add even further to the weight of the car!

You can replace it without removing the manifold! A 10 inch extension on your socket driver should be enough. The hard part is disconnecting the wire and connecting it again.. Don't tighten the new sensor too hard. Just use a "firm hand" and stop when you feel resistance to further rotation. Kinda like spark plugs.

The damage would be to the rims, the studs, and like suggested the brake discs. If you got the brakes hot on the way home, the discs might be slightly warped, but it will take a lot of mileage for this to grow into something that can be felt in the brake pedal. Which is a pain, because you can't prove anything right now. With respect to the rims and studs, it depends on how much overtightening. If the threads on the studs are still ok, I wouldn't worry about them. You might want to remove the rims again and have a look around the mounting holes. Any visible cracks?

Girls?? Anyone seen "Earthworm Jim"?

Well, smooth as the boxer engine is, you can't expect it to be rock steady. Especially at idle, where the ancillaries such as the steering servo are "stressing" the engine. If you are anything like me, you will begin to notice more vibes and possibly sounds that you haven't noticed before as you own the car. It's mental. During the test drive, your senses would have been overwhelmed by the balanced growl of the engine and the POWER! Now, having gotten somewhat used to these aspects, you will begin to notice secondary characteristics, such as the slight vibration at idle. In time, tertiary characteristics will begin to find your attention. Compared to other models and makes the WRX also has stiffer engine and transmission mounts, which means more vibes will be transmitted to the cabin. Relax, and enjoy your car!

Any good torque wrench will have "sacrificial" bits that crumble when you exceed the max torque. This makes a loud CLACK noise during the operation. So, if it still works, it still works. However, it might be a good idea to send it in for re-calibration. (I assume it's a "click" wrench, not one of those with dial you have to read.)

Removing the door trim to trace the rattle always brings the risk of cracking or breaking something important. I like to start by just sticking some self-adhesive foam on the leading or trailing edge of the door frame, so that it wedges itself between the frame and the door trim. It may take a few attempts to find the right spot to stick the foam. If it doesn't work, the foam can be removed without adding problems. Of course, then you have to remove the door trim to trace the rattle...

Oh my! I just realised that you are posting from Singapore! I grew up there, from age 6 to 18, the years 1982 to 1994. Have only been back once, for the new millenium. Cost is the only thing keeping me from visiting more often. Oh, my birthday is on the 9th of August, and Singapore is just ten years my senior :-) I would strongly recommend running Mobil 1 engine oil, 5W-50, as an aid in improving the mileage.

Thanks 97, good link. I am not bothered by the noise in my car - I know it's normal. I was trying to gain info for a debate on a local Impreza website (www.impreza.dk), since the admin has the problem and everyone is dissing me for suggesting that this a Subaru quirk. Bah!