Setright

Hey, I was only off the mark by 25% !

Most pumps here have a globular sightglass just below the gun.

Nice work, Frag. Sounds like a good permanent solution. I cut the shields off the center section on my old Legacy.

Don't pumps in the states have a sight glass at each "gun"? Over here we can see what we're pumping.

"tighten" the heat shields?? Get under there yourself with some "jubilee clips"* and clamp the shields in place. *Those threaded bands that you also use to clamp hoses with.

Well, look at the size of the nut. They have gone from 10mm to 8mm. Look at the size of an 8mm wrench. No more torque than a tight hand can generate. Don't lean on it with your arm or body weight. I think we're looking down around 10Nm, but I can't get my torque wrench on thebleeders!

I use copper grease almost everwhere too! However, not on bleeder screws. If they are stuck, replace them with new ones. These will have some sealant on the threads. The best way to keep them sticking is to torque them right - ie. not too much!

166k miles on HG's is not bad. For any engine.

Bump

Is it auto or manual?

Three 200bhp two-liter Turbo Legacies did 100,000km stopping only for fuel/oil service at the launch in 1989. Beat numerous records on the way.

Hi! Anyone have any experiences they care to share on using Redline engine oils? I have ordered some 10W40 for my next oil change, just to try something other than Mobil 1 for once - the first time in 14 years!

Quote from emisions testing:¨ Some Subaru AWD owners have contacted Subaru of America, Inc. and their authorized Subaru dealers seeking warranty reimbursement for transmission damage caused by two-wheel dynamometer testing. These owners reported no driveability problems prior to state-enhanced emission testing, but sought repair for driveability symptoms (vibrations, noise on turns, etc.) within 100 miles after the improperly performed two-wheel dynamometer test. The Subaru Emissions Defect and Performance Warranties, which cover defects in your vehicle's materials and workmanship, do not cover damage resulting from improper testing

http://www.subaru.com/owners/care/carcaretips/middle.jsp?pageID=towing

The towing company better foot the bill. Did you tell them it was AWD? Most experienced tow truck drivers know that Subaru's are often AWD/4WD, and usually ask you. The silicone oil in the center diff has been overheated and therefore lost it's viscosity. The damage can take a while to show up. Six weeks is within that while. The main problem is discovering the damage, which can be hard during normal driving. You need to race away from standstill in the rain, and get lots of front wheelspin to find out. The Subaru main website has a guide for towing and the related problems.

You should be able to tell by the headlights - unless they have been replaced. The parking lights are built in behind the same glass as the main lights. Looks like this: http://www.geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/ff75close.jpg Euro and Asian indicators only flash for turning, otherwise they are off. Parking lights have to be white.

2.2 GX was what they were called in Asia and Europe. Not sure about Oz.

Give us a minute! I think you should try to pull the plastic plugs out and hold them in a pair of pliers as you tap a thread by driving the screws in. That way, when you screw them into the hood it won't be the first time the screw is going in and they will probably go in.

Sorry man, the transmission is still gonna be screwed. All four wheels need to rotate together, with only a few percent speed difference front-to-rear, or the Limited Slip center diff will die a premature death. De-clutching only release the engine from the gearbox, not the gearbox from the wheels. Try running 10% higher pressure in your front tyres, entering a ninety-degree street corner at 40mph in second gear, on the gas. Step off the gas aprubtly and feel the tail slide, without smashing your center diff! Alternatively, try approaching the same corner at 50mph, stand on the brakes hard as you turn the steering wheels and then planting the throttle in the carpet. If you want oversteer in general, fit a harder rear sway bar or stiffer springs in the rear only.

Who1981 describes the method for taking up slack in the handbrake cable. This will work, to some extent. You checked the pads? The handbrake uses internal shoes! Yep, those discs are hiding a small drum brake inside them. The shoes are probably worn. The shoe clearance can also be adjusted through the drum backplate. Locking one set of wheels on permanent four-wheel-drive cars is not a good idea. Your transmission suffers.

Depends. Are you replacing the pistons to lower the mechanical compression ratio?

Pedal creak. It's probably coming from where the throw-out bearing pushes on the clutch spring fingers. The solution is to disconnect the clutch linkage - after removing the air intake - and slide the throw-out bearing back a little. It is then possible to apply a small amount of high-temp grease on the fingers using a long paintbrush. Possible, but difficult. You are trying to get a brush through a hole already crammed with a clutch release fork, flexible rubber seal, and at the same time get some light and a line-of-sight down there. But it does cure the creak!

Yep. CAR did an interview a couple of years ago. He does change oil every 3k, and presumably never canes the engine.

I am with the subylvr. Any EJ22 will go a long way. The pre-1997 (1996 and before) had hydraulic valve tappets, which will last long with good oil and filter, and never require service.

Could we please dispell the myth of windchill? This affects warm blooded, living creatures. Also, the windchill "temperature" is the equivalent in absolutely ZERO wind. Cars are not affected.