Setright

Agreed, it should be possible to pry the "gaiter" of the knob.

Ok, personally I would have started replacing ignition components before fuel pump. Plugs are new, but what about replacing the ignition cables and the "igniter". Next up, the fuel pressure regulator.

Stick with a good DOT 4, like "Castrol Response". You will not be dissappointed, and won't have wasted money on 5.1. The difference in performance is not discernable on the street. Replace it every 25-30k miles or two years.

LOL brus! Fail to prepare, prepare to fail!

Did you replace the bulb with the correct type? It might be a dual element bulb. I suggest getting someone to press the brake (heavy objects can do the trick) and using a voltmeter to measure for voltage on the socket terminals. Bear in mind that a new bulb could be bad. BY the way, are the terminals in the socket clean?

Replace the PCV valve, genuine part please! And remove all three PCV hoses and flush them out to make sure the system is free to draw in air - instead of oil.

First off, after years of Sube experience many of us - back me up guys! - have come to the conclusion that NGK Spark plugs are the best for Subaru engines. "V- Power" or "V-groove" is one step from the bottom and work very well, and are not expensive. If you feel like upgrading, NGK do make Iridium plugs that fit Sube engines, in fact some models (mainly Turbos) use these as factory fit. Stay away from fancy multiple-ground plugs.

Let's see....coolant leak on an EJ25.....external leak? That would be the "common" head gasket failure on later generation EJ25's. Are you certain that you trust this dealer??? A number of engines have had this cured by getting some of the secret additive that Subaru insists on running in new models. Often, they will ask for the head gaskets to be replaced first, if the leak has been around for a long time. Get a second opinion, unless you really feel that you trust this dealer. Imagine if you could cure your problem with a small bottle of mystery fluid added to the radiator!

I second the motion! Stick with NGK.

What a twerp! Always remove the entire seal before pouring!

You might not have one Novo. Check the driver door frame for a sticker that indicates the service interval for the filter.

Yeah, what rweddy said. Top plug first, if you get the bottom out and drain the fluid and then realise the top is stuck, you can't fill the diff!

Well, water and oil pump should go 120k miles without flinching, so replacing those would be a little premature, but if you have the extra cash, by all means replace them. They are also fairly easy to do even with the engine in the car. I would be more interested in replacing the engine mounts, since that is a cinch with the engine out. You might look into getting something stiffer (STi) to help with the on/off throttle jerking that most Subarus suffer from. With the heads off and out of the car, examine the exhaust header studs carefully. Now would be the time to replace any that have serious rust. "Serious" to me means that the rust is compromising the thread. Hopefully, you won't notice the benefit of doing this now, but six years down the line when rust has eaten your catalyst and the exhaust needs to come off it will be easy. No matter what, you should clean the threads up with a good "thread file". Avoid using any instrument that cuts new thread, you don't want to take off too much material. Make sure you replace rocker cover and spark plug hole gaskets - they can be done in car, but it always costs at least one scraped knuckle!

The solid lifters need adjustment every 62k miles. Basically the adjustment is to compensate for wear and the result of neglect is that the valves open less, and rob some of your power. It will have a profound influence on the engines smoothness, but I am not certain that it would lead to a knock. A solid lifter with a large gap usually makes a tick sound.

1999 would a "Legacy 3", which I recall as being launched in late 1997.

Well, there is going to be a difference due to the air pressure inside the mounted tyre. However, since I trust you are running the radial ply that difference will be tiny. The tread isn't that flexible.

Go for drive on a twisty road were you can give the brakes a workout. Get them hot enough to smell REAL bad. The binding materials will burn off the excess solvents and they won't smell in the future! Don't come to a halt with the brakes still hot, drive on for a while to let them cool again.

Only use the chemical stuff if you suspect that the cooling system is blocked, or if you can see rust inside the radiator. Otherwise stick with clean tap water. If you flush every time you change the coolant, you should never need to do the chemical flush.

Unless they have changed it for your model it is accessed from the passenger footwell. Two screws hold in a plastic cover, about an inch wide and eight inches long. The filter element slides up and down in rails. You will need a short screwdriver.

I think the answer could be in your post: Mixed coolant types. Most coolant packing mentions that you should not mix this product with anything else. For once you can trust the company. They aren't writting that in order to force you into buying only their product, but because mixing coolant types can cause them to turn to glop very quickly. I hate to be the bringer of lousy news, but you need to drain the system again, flush it thoroughly with clean water, and then fill with coolant again. I did a write-up that you will find if you search for "coolant replacement", I believe I have found a sure-fire and fairly simple way of re-filling without the air pockets!

Stick with Mobil for your engine !

I am on the "Remove it" team.

The tyres need to be of the same circumference, that's the clincher. Of course same brand and type will have the same wear characteristics, which will be important as the miles roll by on your odometer. You can't judge the circumference by measuring the tread depth. No way, no how, no ma'am. Tape measure all the way round. It could be argued that two different circumferences on the same axle would not be a problem. The difference would be taken up in the open diffs that connect side-to-side. The main problem, as I see it is if both the front tyres are bigger, because then the partial locking center diff has to take up the difference in revolutions. I replace all four. But I am a born worrier, and would never get any sleep if my tyres didn't match.

Fairly common fault, not dangerous. I had the same thing happen to my 1990 Legacy, also at a tyre shop. Spoke to my local dealer and he said "Leave it. Not a problem." He was right, I did another 20k miles in the car, sold it to a friend who had it inspected and no-one complained. It's done over 30k miles now and no further deterioration. As long as ATF fluid isn't leaking out, don't worry about it.

Sweden, replace both the front calipers. Get new ones from a dealer. Or find a brake shop that you trust to re-build your present calipers - yes, both please!