Setright

Colorado, we were writing at the same time. I hadnt seen your post.

Holy smoke! You've spent a large sum of money on this. A few things could still be wrong: I hate to underestimate anyone, but are you certain the thermostat is being installed the right way up? The spring and wax chamber should be on top, inside the water pump. Assuming the acid clean has worked and flow throughout the entire system is good, then I would start to suspect a internal leak from a head gasket. Try having the coolant tested for signs of HC or CO.

Okay, this morning my IBM and Motorola decided to be friends again, and the photos are here. To all those who are dissing this mod, quit wasting your time here and provide something positive in another thread please :-) I hope these cast enough light on the matter. "Pipetilt" is included to demonstrate that the square pipe is rotated slightly to make the bolt hit the MC at 90 degrees. (blue line indicates angle) The measurements on the cardboard templates are mm, and not 100% accurate. Expect to do some customising... The only thing I needed external help with was the welding, mainly because I don't have the equipment! I painted the bracket in two layers of primer and four layers of semi-gloss black. Hopefully, that will stop it rusting and ruining looks.

In essence: A 3mm thick steel plate, bent to fit around the suspension turret. Drilled four holes to match the two that hold the fuel filter, and the two at the back that were not occupied. A 30 by 30 mm square pipe welded on just where the plate bends, so that it reaches out in front of the MC. The pipe is supported by an extra triangle of 3mm plate, mounted only on the top, there is no room below. A hole drilled through the pipe allows a bolt to go through, there is a lockning nut hidden inside the pipe. This setup allows a little "pre-tension" to take up the slack in the system.

Yep, my Legacy had the single stage for sure. Did you buy the MRT bracket in the states? I decided to make my own because I would have had to import it from Australia - and once the Danish custom officers got their hands on it the price would race away! My USB port is denying me access to all the extra photos I took today. (ARGH!) Sorry, but I can't say when I will be able to post some more photos. Even with the tandem booster, my pedal does feel a lot better. Brake response is much more immediate and controlled.

I having trouble getting my USB port to import the photos I have taken today, will keep trying.. Josh, my BC7 had a very hard pedal. After the initial free-play it was very firm and predictable. Mind you, I am quite sure it had a single stage booster.

Drain all the coolant replace it with new stuff. Make sure you get the air out the cooling system - do a search for "Coolant Replacement". After the drain, check all the hoses before refilling. Two big ones to and from the radiator, and two small ones that run to the cabin heater, mounted on the middle of the firewall. Drive and keep a watchful eye on the temp gauge. Maybe you have a had leak?

Ten years or roughly 125k miles. API approved engine oil and regular maintenance on things like plugs, fuel and filters, will probably keep it working well for as long as possible. It may well lose its capacity to "clean" the exhaust, but show no real signs of it.

Many things can be said about Bosch'es electrical components, but their windscreen wipers are excellent! I am pretty sure I used the "533S" on my Legacy.

Well, in principle this will work on ANY car. I know that the Impreza suspension turrets have extra holes, with threaded nuts already welded on, that facilitated a no-drilling installation. The sun is rising here in Denmark and I need to get to work, but I will take a few more photos and upload them this evening - your afternoon. Glad to hear that people are interested! I posted this on a Danish website and no-one gives a damn?

Could be grit/stones in the brake assembly.

Well, I admit that I do use the scissor jack for my bi-annual wheel swap. Of course I don't get under the car, and the wheel that comes off the car goes under the corner I am lifting - just in case. Rather squash a wheel than a hub assembly. Other work dictates jack stands - or renting a "booth" with a proper lift.

Well, I have tried many fluids and have finally settled on Castrol TAF-X (aka. Syntorq). I have sung praise about this oil before, so I won't repeat myself.

Ever since I sold my Legacy BC7 and bought an Impreza I have been yearning for the firm brake pedal of the first car. Reading around the internet and talking to a driving-instructor who also drives an Impreza, I discovered that the main culprit is the firewall. It's too thin and flexes in concert with the brake pedal. So, my plans to replace the brake hoses with steel braided items, and maybe replacing the drums in the rear, were ditched. And I made this master cylinder support myself. Inspired by looking into the engine room of my girlfriend's parent's Mercedes. And the darn thing works! Pedal is firm and responsive :-) I would strongly recommend this mod to anyone. Take note that no new holes have been made. I will gladly take a few more photos if someone wants to copy this design.

Careful with the plug tightening! The alloy heads will strip the threads all too easily. No more than 15Nm on the spark plugs please! Is the vibration constant? Front driveshafts have been known to be out of balance. What about wheels? Are they balanced? All five lug nuts torqued evenly (95-100Nm)?

Location : Devon That would be in England, my dear! A gallon there is 4.24 litres as opposed to the statside 3.9 litres. That would explain some of the difference. Also, the Forester in question is a 2.0, with manual transmission. That could account for 2-3%, under similar driving conditions. And more if the MT is operated with economy in mind. No pixie dust in sight :-)

I would rate this as normal. Very few manual transmissions will shift into first at speed without a little throttle/clutch work - or a LOT of resistance. Of course the car in question may have an actual problem, that is making this natural condition worse. What speed is the gear being selected at?

Do a google search for Urabus :-)

Yeah!

Nuts are visible from above, on the rails. Rear one is hard to get at, and I suggest leaving it alone. Remove the two front nuts and apply seal.

Aye! Well put, hits the nail right on the head. Ultimately, any engine that goes for more than 120k miles and/or ten years, can not be said to be "weak" if it blows an HG. Of course, one that goes over 250k, could justifiably be called "strong" ;-)

Welcome aboard! The boxer engine does like to hang on to big air pockets :-)

And make sure you use metal gaskets - or you will face the leak that the EJ25 is prone to.

I am pleased with Blizak LM18. Used to run Yokohama F310, which are very good in snow but lacking wet weather braking grip. I have two sets of rims. This means that swapping tyres is done by me, when the need arises. ALSO! Tyre mounting and dismounting does stress the rims, so it's best not to have this done twice a year.

My imp has power windows so this is no definite, but the standard technique on most Japanese cars to wrap a cloth around the base the of the window crank and pull! Wear safety goggles or look the other way, the circlip that holds the crank in place will go flying! The "sail" inside the door mirror housing must be pried out to allow the door skin to be lifted off. There are at least two screws behind blanking plates that hold the skin secure. Pry carefully, with fingers or broad wooden tool around the edges of the door skin to release the plastic rivets.