[HTi]Johnson

I don't believe a couple teeth will cause bent valves. Do you have the correct marks lined up? Especially on the crank pulley, it's the mark on the little "tab" type thing (crank sensor trigger)... not the arrow on the face of the crank. Hopefully this wasn't redundant.

It's the tires. Unless your engine isn't stock, the tire diameter will reduce your torque. Sand is pretty much the only offroad I do, as I live 50 miles from the sand dunes. Air down as the others have said. Another good idea is to know an alternate route, if you're attempting a hill or something, no where to break off if you don't make it. Sand conditions are a big complication too. If it's wet, compacted sand, you're pretty much golden, I've seen an Acura Integra far off the parking lot, in the sand. If it's nice dry, soft sand, that's another beast. My friends brought their stock imprezas on the sand and over a seawall with no problem. It's awesome to see the truck guys' faces when an Impreza sedan or "station wagon" (Outback) goes flying by. I've taken Ea81s, Ea82s, and my outback on the sand...I think the EA81s are the most fun. Also, it helps to know the area. There's nothing like bombing off a 7 foot razorback.

A little late, but try to make sure any bottle you buy used isn't a rental bottle someone scammed from a Gas place. There isn't much crappier feelings than the one of trying to get your bottles filled and having the supplier say "These are our bottles, you can't have them back, unless you rent." But yes, when welding sheet metal, you pretty much just want to do tack welds opposite of each other.

Honestly, if you're bowing 3/16" steel blocks, your car body/suspension is going to be damaged somewhere. As you will be hardpressed to find any piece of the subframe where the stamped metal happens to be thicker than 3/16" of an inch. Not even the metal on the bumper is that thick.

We finally got around to making some. $400 plus shipping. Yes, we're addressing the gap under the headlight and the gap between the tubes (in front of tire), PM or email at sales@hti-fab.com with orders or questions.

True. If you're gunna swap that much, might as well go with the EJ route, even the ej18 has close to the same power as an ea82t. But it matters where your loyalty lies.

A lot of people run straight 2.5" pipe. Probably not legal in most states as it nulls any attempt at emissions. Now, offroad use is different. I ran 2.25" pipe with a flowmaster, it sounded alright, but a little too muscle car for me. A lot of people will say that you don't really have a size restriction after the turbo, as the turbo is all the backpressure you need. On a slight tangent: I've bell mouthed my downpipe and that made a huge difference for spool up.

Just saying he does good, great priced, work. Fast shipping. Thanks.

I've used Rustoleum Flat Black. Flat black is easy to shoot. Don't have to worry much about overspray. I agree, it's %95 prep work. You have to sand, sand, and sand. Feather out any specs or scratches. However, I'm not a pro and the cars I'm spraying aren't customers, they're mine or friend's. But I'm kinda proud of the outcome. I was surprised with how nice the Rustoleum is holding up. I figured it would flake off in a month. A winter, spring, and now summer has and is hammering it. It's been on gravel and mud. He left the mud on for a couple weeks and it "etched" it (you can see where the mud was, not actually peeling paint off). So, in the end, I'd hope a professional painter pipes up or you can go around and ask. What are you aiming for with this paint job?

If you space everything 2" like I do with the 4" lift, it won't affect anything like camber. The brake lines may need to be removed from the strut and relocated. In the rear I add a 4" extension to the line or replace the last metal piece with a longer one.

We still make lifts, we haven't really got a price on them. As for a tube bumper, you have any pics?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98064 also

http://www.headtraumainc.com/subaru.html

Yes, they just bolt on. No welding required.

Yes. Please email me here at sales (at) hti-fab(dot)com

Email all inquiries to sales (at) hti-fab.com

Why? It's a fuse isn't it? Not everyone has $15 to blow on an outdated fusible link.

Wow, I'm glad to see someone preserving a Brat. Of all Subarus to get tossed into the metal cruncher, those should be the last.

Ok, I'll chck that tomorrow. It is lifted and I've customized the shift linkage, I'll make sure it's all lining up. What if that doesn't solve itn what would be the next step? Thanks, [HTi] Johnson.

Yup, reverse won't stay in gear. Could I take the reverse gears out of a non d/r transmission and put them in there?

This is for a friend. He drives a 1986 chevy k10 4x4. He "hit a puddle" and the truck doesn't drive any more. You can put it in drive and it won't move. I locked the hubs and put it in 4wd and nothing...when I would put it back into drive at higher than idle, you'd hear the park gear ratchet to a stop. So, that's telling me the transmission is getting power... I'm thinking that the transfer case may have grenaded. Any ideas on how to check this? The front drive shaft will spin, by hand, while engaged in 4wd hi/lo. The truck will roll (not under power) when in drive and 4wd hi/lo. There is a lot of play in the rear shaft, where it enters the transfer case. And the truck is lifted so I'm assuming the drive shaft is sticking too far out, probably about 3.5" to 4". So, any ideas? This is an automatic transmission too. Thanks, Justin.

Yes, I started adding pieces to address the gap.

Shipping is about $70 for a front and rear bumper.

Here's my rule about HF: If it has more than one moving part, it'll probably fail you. I bought a torque wrench from HF and it fell apart on some lug nuts. Granted, I'm sure my friend may have used it for a hammer at times. HF is great for jackstands, gloves, and simple machines like pliers, screw drivers and hammers. I just never buy anything from them and expect it to last, however, my 2.5ton floor jack is still holding up after 6 years, but it has a slow leak when there's pressure on it.

It's here . If you goto the next page, there is a link for FSM's from 1984 to 2008 or so. For almost every Subaru.