bigjimd

Remove the switch and suspend in a pan of water on the stove. Place a thermometer in the water attach an ohm meter across the the switch. Start heating the water and observe the meter. Switch is normaly open I belive meaning when you hit the temperature the switch is rated for it will close allowing current to flow. Record the temperature at which the switch close's and compare with temp rating.

Yeah the white one is clean but Turbone's car gets my vote.

Miles Fox thanks for the stone guard info. I'm gonna try that on my ATV racks. Does it come in colors? Black or dark grey I'm hoping.

Is this close to you, maybe right color? He might help you out for a small finders fee.

I have to disagree with the wiping off with your finger statement. Yes it has to be clean and oil free and of course rust free as well before you apply it. But I did the fender wells and trunk area in a BMW 2002 I redid and it lasted for the 4 years I drove it daily. It would turn messy if gasoline got to it though. And it was the 3m product. Por 15 for the rust is great.

I have had great results with this 3-m spray. http://3mcollision.com/products/coatings/undercoating/3m-underseal-rubberized-undercoating-08883.html

Big fan of Starbright myself. Keeps the 4 wheelers and yard gear from crapping up. I use it in all our 2 & 4 stroke little engines. We have a brand new etenol plant here in the next town. What a joke. The place has never been turned on. Soon after being finished they had a minor explosion, fixed it and still haven't lit it up. It was built knowing up front that there was no infrastructure in place to get grain to it in quantities enough to run. Promised a lot of people from the midwest to come build and run it that they would have jobs for years. Well all of those poor folks are up the proverbial creek. It's for sale by the way. The reason for building it is directly tied to Uncle sugar subsidies. It's actually employing quite a few people for the next couple of years to come in daily and watch the place not run. Gotta milk all the sugar money right? I aint making this up. Anyone wants to do a little research message me and I can point you in the right direction. There is still a big pile of grain covered up at the port that was trucked in but never used. Looked like a huge hill or small mountain. All covered in tarps with what looks like air dryers or something running under the tarps. Oh yeah the port is about 30 miles away from the plant. 2/3's or so of it has moved but jeez what a waste.

Thanks a bunch!! Just what I need. An ideal solution, should last forever. We have some types of high tech tubing at work and was going to try and make the bushing from that but couldn't find the right size. Besides I like the OP's design better. Just noticed something on the parts diagram print out I got from the dealer. It shows a little spring that goes to the bracket that bolts to the trans. I saw that on the car but didn't see where the other end hooks. Does anyone by chance have a pic of how that springs mounts?

Daughters going out of town so wanted to tighten things up for here as she still isn't real comfy with the 5speed so I used some insulation off a piece of 12/2 cable. It took out most of the slack. The worst one is at the shifter to shift rod junction. I know it won't last but made a big difference. We have some stout plastic thin wall hose here at work I'm going to try and find something that will work better than the insulation sleeve. Can't get parts till after the holiday. Plus I just like homegrown better.

Thanks for the info. I thought it was supposed to work that way. Sorry about the first question. When I got to the dealer I found out all the different P/N's and realized what a stupid question I had asked.

Anyone know the P/n's of the bushings needed to tighten up the shifter in a 93 loyale front drive 5mt. It would help if I call em in instead of going after work. One other quick question. The electric fan hasn't come on since we put the car back together. I jumped it out this weekend and it ran. I now have to check the sending unit. The question is should it come on with the A/C compressor or just the temp switch on the radiator. Thanks

I hope Toyota didn't have much to do with the engineering. The wifes 2008 Scion XD is going to get a new water pump this weekend one way or another. It has 61000 and a bit miles and the pump is shot. Scion says to bad, give us $1000.00 and we will put in a new one. The book says you have to pull the motor and trans to replace the %#*&%) thing. Guess I will find out. The Aisin replacement pump was $63.00 at Bap Geon. Toyota's last offer was they buy the pump at $127.00 and I pay the rest.

Aren't the rest of the belts made the same way? Other than the cog part? I mean those belts never have a cover. Serpentine belts are never covered either right? We left ours off.

Good to see you got her going so well!

Sorry no idea on the P/N's but if for no other reason than those webbers singing with velocity stacks at 7 grand you gotta get em.

My daughter has a 93 Loyale that we tried the oil & additive tricks with. Got quiet for a week or so. Then we replaced the seals on the oil pump, made no lasting differance. Finaly pulled the HLA'S and sent them to Mizpah to be rebuilt, resealed the whole motor, including the oil pump and cam carrier o-rings. 2 months now and all quiet knock on wood and crossing my fingers. Not sure what the answer was but that combo sure worked. Still has the origional 146,000 mile oil pump in it. The cam carrier o-ring were like rock and misshaped so I think they played into the problem a great bit. The engine work was actualy pretty easy but then we had it out to change trannys. I screwed up by not doing things I should have before tearing it down but thanks to some great help from folks here we got it back together.

Maybe take the hose off your old compression gauge? I thought I read earlier that you had gotten a new one. Some fittings from the hardware store and you should be in business.

Fuel filter? Make sure all the fuel lines are clear?

Good to hear you didn't get bunged up! Good luck with your rebuild.

And that after you called him a freak.

Aint it fun to make white hubcaps!

Just found this. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6077

I swear the more I look at that Safari twin carb pic it looks like a Turbo rig with the huffer loading into the can in the back with the hoses bringing the pressure to solid wall cans on top of the carbs.

How about shipping in a container? It might be cheaper. http://www.internationalshipping.com/quote.html

check this page out maybe something there will help you get your mind around this. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-A9Nanj9KyWJ/App/learn/InstallationGuides.aspx