bigjimd

We just resealed the motor completely, rebuilt the HLA's, cam tower seals all the bits recomended to shut them things up. If the car sits for a few days it still ticks on startup and even after a couple of low speed miles. Them things are persnickity.

I'm sure not the most knowledgeable when it comes to trouble shooting electrics. Takes me forever. But it usually seems that the simplest things are the problem and get overlooked at first. Just the way I always seem to roll anyhow. I've been where you are plenty times, sucks, gets so frustrating. I like your idea of putting things back stock and see what happens. One of my first paying gigs was as a helper in a gas/repair station. They had a Ford van in and had replaced all kindsa stuff.Still wouldn't fire. Finally found a brand new condensor that was replaced with the points in the origional tune up that the customer wanted to be bad. They went through over $800.00 in parts alone before finding that thing. And that was 1975 dollars.

Just did this job on the daughters car. Before you unscrew the keeper take a center punch and make a mark on the keeper and the trans housing so you can return to the same preload setting. A very important step. I used a brass drift to get them loose and retighten.Here is a listing of the P/N's. These guys offer great prices and I would use the Subaru replacement parts as the quality is a given. http://www.subaruworld.net/parts.htm Forgot to add that the O-Rings are on the keeper that unscrews.

I just did the same swap. You need to replace the sender on the oil pump housing as they are different. You will need the gauge style. It's much larger and can shaped. There should be a plug you can take out of the housing that is the right size for the sender. I just left the old one in place. The cluster itself should just be plug and play. The door ajar lights should work. Of course there will not be any gear posistion indicator. I am kinda disapointed in the gauges. They don't seem to be very acurate. Lots of talk here about how off they are.

Well your first problem is not having me there to go for a ride with you!! LOL I don't know what to tell you other than hook everything up as if it were in the car. ECU and all the sensors. You should be good to go. I have no experiance with those set ups but I don't think you need worry about not having a transmission and such as I don't believe the 2 communicated at all. I know they don't on my 1993 EA-82. Oh. You are welcome hope it helps.

Here's a digital one I found here. It's for an 83 however. Not dial up friendly. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old%20Models--/

The one at the top of the page has the wiring schematics. Be warned it aint dial up friendly. http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old%20Models--/

Without that jumper it looks like you should have all kindsa stuff not working. Wiper, washer, horn, lights, etc. To bad my father in law moved to Yreka. He is a wiz at this kind of stuff and could have hooked you right up. They Left Roseville a couple of years ago.

I think y'all have it right. No I don't think it ties to either of those 2 directly. Take the Heavy White wire to the battery then a pigtail from the battery terminal to the fuse box at terminal #2 . I would put a circuit breaker in that line. Your schematic shows a 70amp load at terminal 2 so a 70 amp cb should be good. I'm not real sure of that though, I don't think it would ever see that at one time maybe a 60 or even 50 would be better. Make sure you use a proper size wire there. Might be a good idea to let someone else chime in on that thought. If you do, put it close to the battery end. And I agree I have just about read your whole journey, really sweet project. Takes a lot of determination to see such a long project through. A lot of people would have tossed in their hat or passed it on by now.You are just about there now.

Check this out see if any of it makes sense to you. http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Hitachi_LR_Alternator

You sure thats a Bosch? Sure looks like it says Hitachi on the back. I tried to find you something but had no luck. Whats the model # of that unit? I think one wire goes to a wire thats hot in run at the key and the other goes to the light on the dash. Big red one to the battery and I think there is a male spade connector somewhere that goes to ground.

Thanks and I agree it's gotta be something like that. Just don't know how to get around it.

Thanks guys!!!! I mean thanks a bunch!! Pulled the fuel and ignitian fuses cranked a few times for 30 seconds or so. Put the fuses back in. Hit the key and whamo started right up. Sounded like it was self destructing. Scared me so bad I had to pull the oil pressure sending unit to see if I had oil pressure. Oil ran out so I figured it was pumping. The swapped in cluster doesn't seem to have a very good oil pressure gauge. Ran it for a few times of 5 minutes at a time for 6 or 7 times and it kept getting quiter and quiter. She just purrs now. Can't wait for the daughter to hear it. And thank you Mizpah folks if you happen to read this.

Runs and drives Yippe YAhoo!! Key still won't come out. Crapola:-\ Called my buddy and he said to pull the black controller box, no change. Any ideas?

Just tried to Fire the 93 Loyale after trans swap and engine reseal. FWD 3at for 5mt. I also swapped out the cluster for one with gauges. No starter action. Bummer. Need someone to help hold the clutch while I check with the meter. Hope someone comes home soon. Anyhow the question is. Does this car have some kind of key capture device? It must.The ignitian key won't come out with the battery hooked up or not. This wasn't an issue till I put power back on the car. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh the steering wheel won't lock either, key doesn't look like it is turning to the removal posistion all the way either.

Maybe I'm way out of line but flushing a high milage auto trans scares me. I got talked into doing my 83 Volvo 245 had around 200k on it when i got it. Probably 250 when it was flushed. Those things last forever if they are kept topped up. A couple months later it was toast. Have heard similar stories.

I'm trying to finish up a swap myself. I put a 86 Turbo XT 5mt in the daughters 93 Loyale wagon. It's a non turbo car. Swaped out the 3at. I am working on a FWD car so not sure if my info will help but there is a differance in the clutch and pressure plate size between the 2, Turbo is larger diameter,and has a higher spline count. Didn't realize that when I ordered the new replacement parts. Make sure you get the flywheel. Don't remember the spline count. The Turbo clutch kit I got came with pressure plate, disk,throwout bearing, bearing clips, pilot bearing and clutch alignment tool.Came from NAPA. And as already mentioned the shafts are differant. I had the shifter as well and I swear it didn't look like the thing would work, don't know for sure as my girl didn't like the look of the XT one, so I didn't try.

Sorry about that. Thought this may be a great product for keeping the wheels looking good. If you read around on that site he tells how he polishes things up. Those wheels would look way cool polished. Lot of work though to get there I admit. http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

Neato! They turned out nice.

Here's a link to the post. It helped me a whole lot. You can do this with the engine in the car as well. The first time I did was with the motor in the car. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

The PO was wrong. There are 2 belts actually. Not the easiest to see unless you remove a good bit of stuff. Not a real hard job if you have a book.

I came across this the other day. Looks like some fantastic stuff. I am going to get some for here at the house.

Have you checked the Richmond, Va. CL? There's a couple three there for ya. http://richmond.craigslist.org/search/cta?query=subaru&srchType=T&minAsk=&maxAsk=

Way cool rig! Sort of reminds me of a Fiat wagon of near the same vintage, 2 of my buddies had in high school in the early 70's. They were twins and always fought over who got to drive.