ghost

Hmm. So no go on the 205's. I DID just find some 195/60/R15s in the yard i forgot i had. Yes, i literally forgot i had them... I gotta go get them checked to see if they'll pass inspection, one is kinda low for tread but the others seem alright.

Will they fit?? Im bouncing around ideas for what im keeping and selling car wise. I need some tires on my GL and I have this lovely set of flat spoke Pugs sitting here. I ALSO have a nice mint set of General Altimax tires in 205/65/R15 size that id love to put on it. Anyone have input? I thought i saw someone with this exact size combo before but i now cant find it... Ill keep searching but if anyone can chime in, let me know! THanks

Yea Im in PA. If anyone is localish and has the knowledge on how to do this Id gladly pay you. The car is actually for sale but if i can get the windshield fixed for a decent price im sure it would sell faster as i could get it inspected.

Just curious if anyone has done this before by themselves? I found a local junkyard that has one removed already for $50. They said its a fairly simple job to replace, you just need the urethane sealant/concrete stuff to hold it in. Does anyone have advice for this? I beleive i priced a pro job at over $300 so if i can do a sub $100 total job and have it work the same i will.

I would have used a Geo Tracker/Suzuki Sidekick or maybe a Samurai frame but thats just me. Im an anti Jeep person. Plus the Suzuki 4x4 would have fit the wheelbase pretty damn well.

Its actually not hard at all. Just be sure the window is clean and quite wet when you apply the tint. I did both my Tracker and my Nissan Pulsars rear windows. Its quite easy to get the hang of. Doing straight cuts is one of the harder parts.

I actually dont mind the seats in my moms 208k mile 1997 Outback wagon even though Ive ehard they are considered some of the worst seats Subaru ever made. Odd, i think my seats in the 87 GL are the worst seats Ive ever sat in.

Today I figured out why my car doesnt start occasionally (battery clamp is broken) and the "Vent" lever fixed itself today. It wasnt working because of a metric ton of leaves and brush somewhere in the vent system. All came out on my lap today.

These have an oddball lug pattern, 4x140. Only wheels that will swap are some Peugeot wheels and Subaru wheels only. Other option is redrilling 6 lug wheels to fit onto the 4 lug Subaru (easier than one would think to do this). I just got some 15" Pug wheels. Plan to give them some 205/65 tires and put it onto my stock 87 GL wagon. Should fit but may be tight. As long as you stay under 25" tires or so they'll fit fine. Wheel size doesnt really matter, as long as you can cram them on, they should work. Heres almost all of the common choices for wheels: http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/wheels/wheels.html

Normally a 2" will just drop the struts through brackets yes. I THINK SJR has some accommodations in their 2" lift to address CV angle problems but Im not sure if this set is made with them. Either way, just dropping the struts works fine from what Ive researched. May eat up CV's quicker though. edit: im curious to know 2" lift price too.. =] edit to my edit: He offers just the lift brackets yes. Found this link to his site a few pages back http://subarugllifted.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/2020636

We just changed it out about 2 weeks ago and I THINK its 10w30 Pennzoil. The noise happened before that too, just ever so briefly, when i first got it home back in November. Filled the oil and it had been quiet since.

It was quiet all day except for when I pulled into my driveway, i noticed the tapping noise again. Wasnt too loud but it was there.

So to do an intercooler on these all you need to do is hook it up in between the turbo and intake? No need for BOV or anything? Seems easy. I have one Ive been waiting to install because i thought it was beyond my skill.

Well this is an odd situation... Got the Lucas and fired up the car to warm it up a bit first. Turned it off and checked the oil and it was a tad below the Low mark. Was at 3/4 when i had the engine warm yesterday. Really odd it differed that much. Anyway, put in half the bottle of Lucas before I realized it was pouring and I can finish tomorrow before work (that stuff is thick!!!). Ill mix in some more oil too just to top it off. When I started it after putting maybe 1/3 the bottle of Lucas in, the noise went: No tap, LOUD tap for a few seconds, softer tap but at a higher rate of speed, then slower tap at a low volume, then it kinda just softened to normal. This is obviously a finicky lifter right? I cant think of anything else that make such a random racket in the first 30 seconds right at startup.

Haha, well if you or ctsuba have any room up north there and want it back, by all means let me know. Im currently now daily driving it and this is the first issue thats popped up (but i just started DD'ing it to work only about a week ago). Ill try the Lucas oil stabilizer. Just put a quart in the oil and leave it? It doesnt need to come out like Seafoam does it?

Actually, it sounds like the same type of tapping from that first day I got it back here... Only difference is that its not all that low on oil. :-\ It did stop right before I got home, ran perfectly fine when I was parked. Its the weirdest thing. I really think one of the lifters is acting up. Any input? Ill try the oil additive. One bottle of Lucas into the oil? Should I treat it like Seafoam and change the oil after a certain amount of miles?

Today pulling into town off the highway I noticed the engine making quite a racket. Stopped and looked under the hood. Noise was coming from the driver side head area and increased with engine speed. Checked the oil and it was at 3/4 to full. Drove it home and it was still tapping all the way there until I got in the driveway and it mysteriously stopped. Ran like it had before... I noticed the whole drive home the thing struggle to get over 45 on the oil pressure gauge when it usually hovers above that mark when im going sort of quick and hard. Any ideas? Is this just the common lifter tap or maybe the oil pump is going kaput. Its an '87 GL turbo.

Is it for a GL? My mechanic had to order in brakes for mine because no one stocked them. Those suckers werent cheap either... I think it was over $200 for the rear brakes to be replaced (labor included).

Are those lips rare? Im almost posistive my GL has one. Sweet

Today I went about 150 miles to meet a member to get some flat spoke- Pugs =] Ill get the 205/65/R15's onto them sometime this week then we'll see if they fit a non lifted '87 GL.

Whos the guy who does the cheaper 2" lift? I think its $150 or so, made from the steel tubing. Nowhere near as nice as the SJR stuff, just the functional basic lift.

I get that in town with my turbo GL and I thought it was bad for that thing!! Im thinking something is wrong with yours but Im not sure. All I have is mine to judge agaisnt.

Do those 195/65/R14 fit stock without much rub or beating? They're exactly the same diameter (25.5") as the 205/65/R15 Im putting on mine and im still unsure how it will fit for everyday driving (99% daily driving right now, no offroad) Would be sweet if i could just toss them on without a lift. Im getting the wheels next weekend but cant spend anymore money on the Sube until I start my summer job and have more money.

I have an '87 GL wagon Im considering selling. Check out my feeler thread on the for sale page. Same thing as a GL-10 minus the finicky digital dash an leaky sunroof. Not sure what else is different between the GL and GL10 though.

Ill attest to that. Almost had a heart attack when he said 35. Thought if he was right, something is seriously wrong with my wagon!! :-p 18mpg in all town driving with mine. Working on the first 50/50 tank now with some city and a bunch of highway. Looking more promising with 210 miles traveled at 1/4 of the tank left (was 210 and on E when I did all city)