avk

If the fans are on, the sensor circuit is open or shorted and most likely it's a bad sensor.

This makes sense because PCV hoses connect to the intake downstream of the flow meter, thus any air entering due to leaks would not be accounted for. But on the other hand, one would think a small leak like this one could be compensated for as a result of feedback from the oxygen sensor.

Thanks a lot, 777, frag & 95Leg. Removing the seals was one last thing, hopefully, I had to think through. And yes 777's pictures are great, they're worth even more than 32000 words.

I am doing my first timing belt replacement later this spring. 777 and frag, could you help me better understand what you did to remove the seals? Is it right that you basically rest the screwdriver against the edge of the seal bore tangentially to the shaft, sink the tip of the blade into the seal, and pry?

I called SPX/Kent Moore to ask for prices. There's no discount: for example, SOHC cam sprocket holder 499207100 is 44.63. The tool numbers are recognized by subaruparts but are listed as discontinued, with no price shown.

This is goood.

Frag: to reach the right-side roll pin from below, the punch should be long enough, or you can insert its back end into a suitable hex socket, usually 8mm, over an extension bar. On Impreza, I had to do it like that because from the top, there's cruise control in the way. The punch itself should be 6mm and in Canada maybe you can actually get one. I had to use 3/16" (1/4" won't fit).

I should have said that one has to properly position the template "by hand". For me it was the more time-consuming part of the project. One thing I did was to attach a length of masking tape between the mirror mount and the dome light and mark the roof centerline on it, then find the correct location along that line.

Never knew that pre-1995 sensors cost 10 times more. What can possibly explain such difference?

This is common and replacing the sensor would be the first thing to do, along with the camshaft sensor which is of the same design.

To clarify my prev. post: OE part nos. for reman'd axles (those with "R1" at the end) are the same, unless the Legacy is FWD - but I believe even then the common p/n will fit.

They must be interchangable because same remanufactured p/n applies to both Legacy and Impreza.

This is how Outback versions are raised from the factory, by using spacers at crossmembers and diff. and transm. supports. You just need bigger ones. Not that I know what I'm talking about.

Do you think this tool can also be used, in the same way as the factory one, to hold the crank pulley? I see they do sell a tool specifically for holding the pulley, with a set of pegs in several sizes, but it costs more.

A '95 Impreza wagon is where I installed the Legacy light, BUT there was no mounting bracket to be found. The bracket is a piece spot-welded to the windshield header rail and not sold separately. I had to salvage one from a '94 Impreza and glue it in place. All 1993-94 GC-GFs had the bracket, and I heard '95 (1st year) GMs too.

Kai: So you can see the light is the same as on gen. 2 Impreza, which is why it will fit. The only exception is that the WRX light has both pos. and neg. wires in the harness, while the "old" Legacy light is grounded through the mounting screws.

I sure hope it won't get to be called "QuickLeak". But seriously, I'd like to know the p/n.

One can use a gen. 2 Legacy map light kit H4610AC000MS, it comes with instructions and a cutting template. It connects at the dome light. Subaru discounted these to $8, no idea if any are left.

1stsubaruparts has exc. pricing and service, but uses a generic parts database from parts.com. It is something like Mitchell, and is incomplete and not always accurate. There are actually other dealers using the same parts engine, such as subarupartstore.com (with higher prices). Subaruparts.com seems to be the only storefront built on an actual Subaru database. It does recognize the p/n for this filter.

Is the actuator cable adjusted correctly?

The washer pump should run only when you push the button on the stalk. If it still does, you may have only one problem, probably a bad flasher relay.

Thank you both for the replies. I tried also to find out some more on my own, and it seems on '98+ Impreza and Forester, and '00+ Legacy the wiper switch is accessible w/o removing the switch assembly from the column. For pre-'98, it's less certain, but an adjustable switch is still a straight swap for non-adjustable.

To access the mounting screws for the wiper switch, did you have to remove the entire switch assembly? Thanks.

This system seems to clean only the fuel delivery path but not the air intake, PCV, IAC etc. If one wants to spend the money, it might make more sense to use something that works through the intake.

Silicone's what seems to work best in the cold. It was the only thing, too, that stopped my door locks from occasional freezing (but didn't try synthethic spray lubes). The power antenna has to be cleaned and lubricated regularly.