darsdoug

I put a set of remanufactured front cv axles on my 91 Loyale 5spd 4wd wagon and now it has a definite shudder like something is loose... but only while accelerating. The box the axles came in said: replaces Cardone ### ; I got them online dirt cheap so that may be the problem? I replaced the front tie rod end's also and "Rusty" doesn't pull to the left nor the right and steer's fine. It never had this shudder thing going on until I put those axle's on. Only does it when you put your foot in it and apply some torque to the front wheels. It coast's fine and I can't feel any vibration anywhere except for the shudder in the front axle area. Characteristic of a bad u-joint in a rear wheel drive car. That's what it remind's me of anyhow. Think I got what I paid for? Or did I overlook the obvious somewhere? Cast your input here. Thanks.

Fuel pump location on a 99 Outback?

Now I have a clear picture of what's going on. I just needed to know the basic concept and engineering on this Auto AWD trans.

Yes. It's blinking 16 times alright. I'll do the procedure like you described. I put a fuse in the small FWD box under the hood to see if that would help, but it didn't. I put a test light there also, but had no indication of current....? Do I need to have the engine running with the trans in DRIVE?

I've noticed a shudder in the drivetrain when turning left or right at an intersection. If I give it a little more throttle it's not as bad. Is that torque bind or something? How can I fix it? It's an automatic AWD. All tire's and wheels are exactly identical.

I've noticed when ordering parts online that the compatibility info often state's the part fit's only after a certain month in 96. How do I find out what month my 96 Legacy was produced? I already know from experience that a cold air intake from a 97 doesn't fit a 96.

It's a EJ22. Apparently it has a green Outback rear hatch on it. The odometer say's 270K and the paperwork/receipts that came with it say the belt's were replaced at 145K. OMG! Jeez.....! The cat's were replaced in 2005 and the front CV axle's were replaced in May of 2011. The electric cooling fan's aren't kicking on, so now I need to find the location of the thermo switch. I'm quite sure it's a 96 LS wagon. sigh.

The rear hatch is green and say's Outback on it but the rest of the car is red. I'll check the cover's and the casting mark's on the block when I get home from work. And yes, it does have the small foglight's in front. Thank's for your time.

I just bought a 96 Legacy Outback LS for $800 and the sixth digit in my vin# is a 4. It's an automatic but I read in "The Outback Story" that the automatic's were all 2.5's and the manual's were 2.2's. Anybody out there know how I can find out what I've got? Got your ear's-on Fox?

Thats Todd's ea81 Brat pictured on my thumbnail.

This is "Sara" my 88 dual range wagon. I need to put some new shocks on the back and fix an exhaust leak, but other than that it's a good runner. Sure wish summer would hurry up and get here.

I have had the driver side tie-rod end off about four times on my 91 Loyale. (Yes, right there at the steering knuckle/spindle arm.) I've noticed a couple time's after putting it back on that my baby pulled to the right slightly afterward. And another couple time's it didn't. I had it off yesterday to replace a stripped out castle nut while I had the wheels cranked all the way to the left. Now today it pull's slightly to the right. What am I doing wrong? My question is: Do I need to have the wheels pointing straight forward before I ever remove the tie-rod end and then put it back on? It's a little mindboggling. Yes, it has power steering. Any competent answer's will be appreciated. Thanks.

We concur.

We've been using an eight pound slide hammer with a big castle nut welded on the end. Just screw it on the end of the axle and give it a couple good whack's. Works great.

Perfecto. Thankz.

I've got a 88 GL d/r wagon with cruise control, SPFI and no A/C. I've been on usmb researching an electrical gremlin that has been annoying me. Follow this: I replaced the blower switch because the heater fan wasn't coming on. No luck....but, the heater fan works great when direct current and ground are applied via my little battery charger. I probed with a test light the plug that goes to the heater/blower switch after unplugging it from the switch. With the ignition key at the "on" position I'm not getting any current from any of the contact's I probe. Test light comes on when I touch the cig lighter positive contact so I know the test light works. I need confirmation as to whether or not one of the four round relays inside the dash is for the heater blower? Ya know, the four that are lined up like little soldier's? I'm fairly confident one of them may be, but I'd like to know for sure before I dig in. Thankz.

Disregard. I found the rocker switch I inadvertantly pushed on top of the steering column. duh....

This is strange. I was cleaning my dashboard off (all the various nobs, button's and lever's) with a damp wash cloth on my 88 GL wagon and now the parking lights won't go off. I must now disconnect the battery at night. Can anyone give me a hint as to what happened?

I just bought a 88 gl wagon dual range SPFI for two hundred bucks with 216K on the clock. I've been driving it to work with few problems other than it stalls out a little when I nail it getting on the freeway. I put a new fuel filter on but it's still doing it. Act's like it run's out of gas for a second. I'm going to put another fuel pump on next weekend and I bet it will cure the problem. Check it out.

Cool....

I bought a LF spindle from Pick N Pull today for fifteen bucks. It was from a 89 Subaru FWD car. What I need to know is.... will it fit on my 91 4WD Loyale wagon? Also, when are those greedy new owners going to have a fifty percent off day?

I agree with the Fox.

It was just, well....I dunno? After having the carb off a couple times and stoically resigned to being frustrated for a few days, I decided to drop the new fuel pump Todd said he put on it. Bingo! I found an old used fuel pump with a new filter that had some black gunk in the bottom of it. I cleaned out the pump with a little compressed air and put a new filter on it and haven't had the "seem's like it's running out of gas" issue since. Moral of the story, never overlook the obvious when you are relying on information without doing a visual to confirm it. Duh....

Been trying to pinpoint the problem with this carbed ea82. It shut down yesterday like it ran out of gas. I noticed that the auto choke housing was loose. I took it off and it started right up for some reason? Is the blue wire coming from the choke housing some sort of fuel shut down switch? Door jamb say's November 85.

Put on some Napa Ultra Premium rear shoes. Of course I put in a new hold down kit too. Freed up and cleaned all the moving gizmo's and the backing plate. Wheel cylinders weren't leaking so I called it good. Certainly stops quick with the Brembo rotors and bendix pads up front. I noted my back seatbelt anchor's are ready to pull thru the rear fenderwells due to rust. Wonderful.