darsdoug

Jeez. I just had the TB on wrong. It starts right up and runs great now.

Success! I just had the timing belt on wrong. 180 degrees off on the pass side cam pulley. I took the TB off today and set both arrows at 1:30 put the belt back on and it started right up and purrs like a kitten.

I am fairly certain that I need to get a new FPR. It holds fuel pressure great with the return line pinched. As a matter of fact it started right up when I cranked it over with the return line pinched off but it started bucking and died in about five seconds. Too much pressure causing that?

I already put a different FPR on. It wasn't a new one. I had it left over from the green hornet project. I'm still kicking myself for selling that wagon. Apparently I'd temporarily lost my common sense and good judgement that day. ha ha.

I have the fuel pressure gauge attached between the fuel filter and the engine and I can see it clearly from the drivers seat. Although I haven't watched it when cranking, I'll do that today. It holds pressure fine when attached to the line coming from the gas tank so I assume the pump is not draining back.

I meant the pass side cam pulley is toast. I"m going to get another one plus a complete intake manifold set up from a same year EJ22. I'm know I'm losing fuel pressure at the rail until I pinch off the return line then it holds pressure great. That rules out leaking injector O-rings and points more toward a bad fuel pressure regulator doesn't it?

My avatar speaks for itself. I found another complete 1990 EJ22 with a bad head gasket that was pulled about a year ago. I'm going to get it and start from scratch. The flange on the pass side cam pulley came off during TB install. I was using a flat screw driver to help roll the belt up on the cam pulley. If there are arrows on both front and back of the cam pulley then yes it might be on backwards? It's toast anyway.

I broke the outer edge off the passenger side cam pulley when installing a timing belt. I put a notch where the dash mark had been, or at least I thought i did? I just saw a post where Fairtax said that the arrows on both cam pulleys should be pointing at 1:30 when the timing is fairly close. If that is so then I'm about 180 off on that side. It's without a doubt part of the no start problem I've been having?

I still haven't got it to run. I have the fuel pressure tester attached between the fuel rail and the filter and it's losing hold pressure (30psi) within seconds. I pinched off the return line that goes to the fuel tank and it held pressure great at 40+ psi. I then unpinched the return line and the hold pressure continues to drop off rapidly. So it's a bad regulator, correct? With tester connected before the filter it holds steady at 32psi (with the outlet end of the tester plugged of course) I might ad that the fuel relay clicks one time then pressure drops off immediately. I turn ignition key to "on" position (not crank) and I get 32psi. o.k.....Then 2 seconds later the relay clicks once (click coming from above my left knee) and the hold pressure drops like a rock. Whats up with that? Do I have a bad relay also?

Bingo! I put a Harbor Freight fuel pressure tester between the fuel filter and fuel rail and I got zero pressure after three or four key-on prime attempts. I put the tester on my 96 wagon (just to make sure it was good) and I got 30psi on the first prime and 35psi on the second prime. Just goes to show you cannot overlook the obvious. Thanks guy's.

I got it to run on starting fluid for about 30 seconds today with the MAF and injectors unplugged (just chugging away ha ha) I checked the codes again and now I'm getting 14,15,16,17, 22, 23, 31, and 49. I put another fuel regulator on it (a used one from a 94 Impreza) but it made no difference. Where is a good place to by a fuel pressure tester cheap? O'Reilly's wants $109.00 to rent one. You can almost get a new kidney for that! I think I'll go junkyard searching tomorrow and see what I can find? Another complete intake might do the trick eh? Autozone in Burien, Wa. has a Duralast coil for $79.99 and it say's "with manual transmission'. I'll check the pig tails to the main harness and make sure they are plugged in all the way. Thanks.

Had the battery out for an hour and still getting the same codes. I'm off to find a fuel pressure tester right now. Are both the coil and MAF vehicle specific? Automatic vs. Manual?

I see the ignition switch had been replaced at some point in the past. (I found previous switch w/ keys in a sandwich bag under front seat). My question right now is will it damage the ECM if I put a hotwire from + post of battery to center/yellow wire at coil? Just to see if it will run?

I don't really know? I plugged the injector pigtails back in immediately afterwards. I'll give it another try tomorrow and see what happens? I've been refraining from throwing parts at it due to the high cost. I'd like to pinpoint the cause of failure first. I'm getting 17.5 K-ohms of secondary resistance on coil terminals 1&2 and 3&4.

This morning I unplugged all the injectors (at the injectors) and gave it a spray of starting fluid and it started right up (even though short lived) I plugged the injectors back in and again tried to start it but again got no response. The spark plugs are still getting gas fouled. On the upside I removed all four spark plugs and spun it over and did not see any gas blasting out of the plug holes. Nor has the oil level on the dipstick increased due to fuel finding it's way into the crankcase.

So what was the outcome?

I'm going to figure this thing out even if it takes me all winter. I'm trying to keep my humor but I am rapidly reaching the WTF? point.

Cranked it for at least ten seconds when checking for spark. I had two different family members watch a spark plug while I cranked it over and they both said it was sparking. (Not a intense blue-white spark, but more of a weak orange spark). I also put one of those value bin flash gizmo's between the coil and a plug wire and it also flashed while cranking.

Hmmm? I unplugged the MAF and tried to start it in limp mode but still no luck. I sprayed starting fluid into the throttle body with wide open throttle and cranked it over and didn't get jack. Nothing.

Did some reading and learned that it's normal for both injector wires to appear hot if grounded to the chassis with a test light. The injectors are in fact grounded by the ECU thus completing the circuit and pulsing the injector as needed. So if all four injectors are stuck open "electronically" would that be a bad ECU?

I don't know much about injectors. This should be an adventure.

It does indeed have a Hitachi MAF. I removed it and examined the hot wires. They appear clean and intact.

o.k. I shall pursue that before getting into the possible injector problem.

I think I'll unplug the fuel pump and try to start it (after the football game) and see if it makes any difference? I imagine the oil dipstick smell's strongly of fuel these days? Sure hope I didn't bend any rods when the cylinders were half full of gas while I kept cranking it over. I know it was jamming up every revolution or so (until I'd put the gas pedal in flood clear position while cranking) then it would almost try and start.

Another day of troubleshooting and I'm starting to lean more toward the injectors being stuck open.