darsdoug

Recently I've had a CEL so I took it to Autozone and they said it was throwing a oxygen sensor code. I checked both the upstream and downstream sensors with OHM meter and they both show infinite resistance. I also checked the pigtail coming from the harness on the upsteam and it is showing 12 volts. There is two white wires and one black wire on both sensors. The two same-color coded wires (white) are the ones I had checked with my multimeter. Can a bad knock sensor be throwing a 02 code?

Update: Still runs great other than the random slip-bang downshift when going up a hill in Drive. I think it's the TCU causing that? It also has a slight leak at the plastic oil separator plate I forgot to upgrade. duh! I have a potential buyer coming today who wants to go over everything with a fine tooth comb (bringing a mechanic with him) so he can try and throw a lowball offer at me. Sorry but I'm going to stand firm at my sell price of $1800.

I searched for an hour and couldn't find a pic showing power steering fluid leaking from the hole on the back/bottom of a power steering pump. On my Legacy it appears to be puddling on top of the block just behind and below the pump where the hole is. Is that a relief passage that allows fluid to escape when a seal fails internally?

I may need a couple Excedrin.

O.K. I didn't see a seam for the lid at first glance. Broken solder points at the pins were the problem. Thanks.

Pop the cap off the housing?

I unplugged the MAF at the pigtail and then plugged it back in and went for a twenty mile drive with zero problems. I also checked for vacuum at the fuel regulator while idling and its good. I know vacuum decreases at higher the RPM thus increasing fuel pressure to the injectors (compliments of the regulator). Hopefully it was just moisture at the MAF plug-in causing the problem?

Does a failing MAF sensor throw a cel ? I'm not getting a cel and it's acting just like there's water in the fuel? I replaced the fuel pump last week and I thought that cured the problem because it ran fine for a couple days but now it's doing it again. Daily driver.

Does a failing MAF sensor throw a cel ? I'm not getting a cel and it's acting just like there's water in the fuel? I replaced the fuel pump last week and I thought that cured the problem because it ran fine for a couple days but now it's doing it again. Daily driver.

Update: Now over ten thousand freeway miles going back and forth to work since last summer and still running fine.

I found the problem this evening. I put a new belt on and it's working just fine. Thanks for the input people. Just can't overlook the obvious when it comes to the automotive world. I forgot to check the pressure of course. I hope I didn't overcharge the thing last month? I'll check it tomorrow.

So I google searched and read that the TXV is a metering device/valve and will cut off the compressor if pressure gets to high? I'll keep an eye on things today and see what happens. I don't know why the pressure is reading (abnormal/high) when I only put one can in the system? 18oz if I remember right? It was the silver-gray can of R134 with blue print.

So I got home from work today and my AC would only blow warm air at an idle (600-RPM). I noticed a slight odor of burnt rubber (compressor belt perhaps?) I promptly attached the R134 refill hose/gauge I'd kept for the past month and it pegged off the chart. (high pressure) That refill kit hose/gauge thing has always had a normal pressure reading when I've checked the refrigerant pressure at an idle...(until today). Now at idle the compressor is not cycling on/off and I don't recall the radiator cooling fans kicking on either? The AC still blows nice cold air though when I raise the RPM's above 1500. Am I missing something here? I set the outside ambient temp dial at 75 when I charged it last month. Oh, it's my 1999 Legacy L wagon.

Bad head gasket with combustion gases leaking into coolant passages. Replace HG's.

This might help.2.5Timing.pdf

"Green Hornet project" actually.

Just do what i did. Keep an eye on Craigslist for any EJ22 engine you can find. I got very lucky and found a 94 Impreza engine (complete) for $160 w/224K that had already been pulled and was sitting on the floor of a local fellows garage. I tore it down to the shortblock and put it in my 99 Legacy with some new triple steel HG's last summer and it still runs great. My 99 had a spun rod bearing on No. 1 You can check out my thread titled "Well I found another project EJ22" (Sorry, I haven't mastered the function of creating a link yet)

Yes I agree Fram oil filters are junk. It troubles me our local wal-mart doesn't stock purolators for 2.2's? Every time I look for one they don't have it so I end up grabbing a Fram. If they do carry 2.2 Purolator filters they are long gone by the time I get there. This Mobile Super motor oil I'm using is just their conventional oil. Perhaps the Purolator filter numbers I got from the Bumble Beast are different than NA filters?

Thanks. It sure runs better now. "No more loud clicking". I did have a concern yesterday though when I first started it after it sat for a week. (Gone fishing) It sounded like a rod or main bearing knocking but it went away after three or four seconds. I checked the engine oil dipstick and it was at the full mark. First time it's ever done it and I've been driving it for a year with regular oil and filter changes. It has the Mobile 5000 10-40 wt. in it right now with a Fram filter. Would that be the debut of a failing oil pump? or something else? It didn't knock this morning when I started it.

I can't seem to find the exact number in ft.lbs. anywhere? I sure don't what them coming loose on me. I just set the intake valve lash at .008 and the exhaust valve lash at a slightly snug .011 because I didn't have a .010...Thanks.

I replaced a damaged front passenger fender on a 96 Legacy wagon I bought a couple years ago but I never replaced the crunched black plastic plenum that mounted inside the fender. Will that hurt anything? The only thing I've noticed is a deep "barooom" sound when putting my foot into it.

I've been driving a 96 Legacy LS wagon for a couple years now with the infamous "torque bind" but it just keeps going and going. The FWD fuse never made a bit of difference. The shuddering is always there during tight turns but I hardly notice it anymore. I imagine I should pull the driveshaft going to the rear wheels since I've been to lazy to install a new duty C solenoid in the tailshaft. duh....I was going to take it to GD many moons ago, but I never made it down there.

Reading between the lines I think he/they were referring to the "O" ring seals in the valve covers that are at the base of the spark plug surrounds. Perhaps identified as "cylinders" in this thread. Those seals have a tendency to leak after a few years and will allow oil to pond eventually enveloping the ceramic area of the spark plugs and causing them to fail.

At any point did you have the pigtail to the crank position sensor unplugged? If so just make sure it's plugged back in all the way until it clicks. It can cause similiar problems to yours if it's not fully seated.