darsdoug

I wish I would have kept my old 99 block I had for a reference. I have the old style tensioner-a horizontally mounted slave cylinder looking device with two 12mm bolts securing it. Are you certain the idler bolt I'm having trouble with is anchored to the bracket also? Thanks.

Just put a new thermostat and water pump on the wife's 280K 96 EJ22. (Nothing compares to having a stuck thermostat while driving to a Easter dinner family get together). Anyhow I was putting the tensioner pivot bolt back in but it was just spinning and wouldn't get a bite. I backed the bolt out and sure enough there was aluminum stuck in the threads of the bolt. I searched my collection of misc bolts but could not find a longer one with the same thread pitch. Slightly annoyed and in a hurry to get it back on the road I coated the threads with ultra grey and buttoned it up. I took it for a nascar redliner test drive around the neighborhood and it's holding. I imagine I'll dive back into it soon so I don't lose anymore sleep over it. Should I heli coil it? I've never done that before. I forgot to check the depth too.

I've only been using Ultra Grey. Mostly on EA82 cam towers. I HAVE used Permatex silicon copper spray on a couple EJ22 HG jobs I did last summer. (Although Fairtax predicted the HG's were destined for failure due to my use of the copper spray). BUT after approx. 5000 miles each of freeway driving they are both still running strong. I drove thru Rochester last weeked on my way to check out the Lucky Eagle. Nice place. Didn't win much though. Walked out two dollars ahead after playing the slots for a couple hours. I really need to stop doing that.

Be sure to get the correct "O" ring.

Don't touch sploog. Sploog cursed!

A couple years ago I found a one owner 99 Outback wagon that had been parked in a driveway so long all the tires were flat. It only had 133K on it and the owner let it go for six hundred bucks to my son in law. He didn't mention it had problems. Claimed he just parked it because he bought a new truck and liked driving the truck better. My son in law put a new fuel pump in it and it started right up. He drove it for about a month but it eventually started overheating with bubbles coming up in the coolant surge tank. He was a little upset back then but It's a great runner now after he's put around 1500 bucks into the engine mostly for parts. I agree the 2000+ SOHC 2.5's are better.

I thought I may have exacerbated the issues it was having by doing that? Thank you. The owner came and got it today and went flying off up the hill toward the horizon.

It looked like someone had been in the tank before because one of the locking tabs had broken off on the fuel pump cap and had been godzilla soldered back on. The threads on most of the ten little screws that anchor the fuel pump assembly to the tank had been stripped at some point too.

Yes that came to mind. I'll pursue that. I think the ten percent alcohol in todays gasoline is slowly dissolving the inside of neoprene fuel lines and clogging fuel filters? Strongest industrial solvent known to man from what I've heard.

The gas inside the tank looked o.k. but I'm still sort of stumped as to why I wasn't getting any fuel pressure at neither north or south of the filter until I pulled the return line off the tank? airlock??

Well I found that one of the lock tabs on the fuel pump cap had slipped off like Fairtax said and part of the O ring was hanging out. Local Subaru dealer here said he had just what I was looking for but when I got there all he had for me was a gas filler cap. See my avatar? ha ha. I specifically told him I wanted a fuel pump cap and O ring but I failed to tell him the parts were a component of the fuel pump assembly. (My bad) Naturally they didn't have what I needed so I put the cap and O ring back together and bent the tabs in a little for a better grip. I couldn't get any fuel pressure to the filter at first when I tried to start the engine so I disconnected the return line at the pump (thinking it was the supply line being a novice and all) and BINGO! I was now getting plenty of fuel pressure at the filter. I hooked everything back up (except the return line) and it started after cranking it over for about 15 seconds. (lost a good amount of fuel from the disconnected return line but shut it down quick as soon as I remembered that) I think it was probably my fault for forcing air through the fuel line at the filter outlet with my air compressor? I may have also popped the cap and O ring off too when I did that? I think I'll just put a new fuel filter on it and call it good.

Not sure how many pumps it's gone thru but it sounded like it's been going thru them regularly the way she described it?(sheesh) I haven't found any receipts or invoices in the glove box related to the issue. I'm getting what I can from the mother. i.e. (info). Her kids drive the car but end up calling good ol' mom when it conks out. The auto repair garage in town wanted $575 to fix it. She promptly had it towed here instead. I'll disconnect the battery and pull the pump in the morning for a look see. Thanks.

Just had a 2001 Legacy L dropped in my yard that doesn't seem to like autozone fuel pumps? Will not run. I got a small amount of fuel to come out after taking the fuel line off the filter and blowing air into it with my super hero lungs a couple times. (yeah right-ha ha-cough cough) Anyhow I got the two fluid ounces of fuel that dribbled out when I turned the key to start. I caught it in a clear drinking glass and it appears darkish grey and cloudy. The owner told me that the filter had just been replaced last year but I'm speculating she may have been thinking the fuel pump instead? I dunno? It's a clean Subaru L sedan and only has 115K miles on it. Fuel pump primes and the pigtail connector vibrates when key is turned to start. (not the crank position). No fuel coming thru the lines on either side of the filter. Warranty on the fuel pump is still in effect so I guess I'll see if I can get a replacement from autozone. I'll try to talk her into an OEM pump and filter though. I imagine there isn't a drain plug on the gas tank. I'll purge it from the top of the tank if it appears contaminated.

I delivered parts to various repair shops all over the Seattle area about twenty five years ago. They supplied parts for Ford, Subaru, and Izuzu. The norm was usually a 150% markup on everything.

Friction and heat transfer. I couldn't find any bearing when I took this one apart. A small amount of metal powder in the oil was the only evidence it ever had a bearing. It never got as hot as your 2.5 did though.

Did you get it from "oldsubfreak" ? He's a card carrying older generation kind of guy. He's on the board here if you wish to contact him.

Alright. Thanks.

Is that the 79mm ?

I don't think so. The No.1 rod journal is .87mm smaller than the other journals. Ran it too long with a knock. No bearing was found. Just metal powder in crankcase.

I've been hunting around for a used crankshaft I can put in my 99 EJ22 rather than just bagging it and recycling the block halves. The thought of recycling two good block halves doesn't sit well with me for some reason? I'd much rather assemble a shortblock over time. What year crankshafts will work?

Alright thanks. I see in the FSM the ginding limit is .25mm on the crank journals. I'll keep it in mind that factory tolerances for oil clearance should be twice the thickness of a lottery ticket which is usually .08 mm.

It's on the firewall right next to the transmission dogbone.

I wonder if it's normal to have twice as much oil clearance on the mains vs. the rod journals? The crank only had 130K miles on it.

I would need "undersized bearings" if I had the crank turned. You generally use "oversized bearings" when you have a block line bored or you have the big end of the connecting rods enlarged.

Got a new digital caliper from Ebay yesterday. I'm getting a reading of 59.81mm on my main journals and 51.91mm on the rod journals that haven't suffered any bearing failure, but I'm reading 51.13mm on the rod knock damaged journal. Should 60mm and 52mm be the standard OEM crankshaft journal size's? Question of the day; Am I screwed as far as getting it machined? I see the bad rod journal is already 0.87mm under from the beating it took.