darsdoug

It's a 99 ej22 block.

yes. I need at least a .0012 larger driver tip. I didn't think there was that much difference between 5/32" and 4-mm ? but there certainly is. I need to remember what I'm working on.

Thank you Santa.

o.k. I'll try that. My 5/32" allen wrench type driver tip just won't get it. Thanks.

They are stuck tight and my hex only strips them out.

My guess is there has to be some type of restriction in the oil passage's or possibly intermittent low oil pressure? I've seen this before when I was a teenager. Might as well have been during the Crusades for some of you. ha ha. The standard 1950's FoMoCo Y-block V-8's were notorious for it. Lack of oil getting to the rocker shaft assembly's resulting in squeaking, clacking, poor performance and eventual failure. Let us know what the cause of the problem is when you get it figured out.

Update: Well.... I have put over five thousand miles on the engine since last summer with no problems whatsoever. It's still running pristine.

My reaction to the OP's rant.

ughh....? I do enjoy hot apple pie with ice cream though. Thanks for the info ya'all. Quack-Quack.

Why is the ATF in my 99 4EAT clear when the ATF in my wife's 96 4EAT is red? Be assured I'm using the proper ATF dipstick when checking the transmission fluid. (Not the short 90 weight stick).

If I don't get all the bearing granules out of all the oil passages will it screw up the future new bearings?

Yes, I put a large/long nail in the end of a slide hammer. The head of the nail was just the right size. The wrist pins were tight and difficult to extract so I sprayed them with Blaster which seemed to help alot. Substantial varnish in the block.

Top of the bore on the end of compression stroke. Roger that.

First one I've split to check out rod knock damage. There were no signs of a rod bearing left on #1 other than a good amount of metallic powder inside the oil pan. It was another learning experience for me to say the least. The phase-1 94 Impreza block I swapped in last June is holding up good. It was a cheap 150 dollar EJ22 I'd found on Craigslist.

Yes, new HG's will in fact raise compression to a point where the piston rings need to be up to snuff. I'm old school and I received most of my knowledge from a seasoned auto mechanic while helping out at a Texaco gas station in Seattle back during the summer of 1967. Last summer I helped my son-in-law put new Six-Star HG's on his 99 OB along with all new valve seals and machine surfaced heads. The EJ25D only had 136K on it but it's been going through a fair amount of oil . We determined there was no smoke coming from the tail pipe plus no oil dripping anywhere, so we've been at a loss as to where the oil was going? My guess is the rings?

PSI is PSI in my world. Nevertheless I could be wrong.

Is there a reason for putting shop air to a suspected leaking cylinder at TDC instead of when the piston is at the bottom of the bore ?

Perfect. I think I'll start doing that. Perfect.

http://best torque bind explanation There is a thread started by RallyKeith back on August 11, 2005 you should probably try to view. I can't seem to create a working link at this time for you.

From my past experience with domestic engines I'm fairly certain the front journal on the crankshaft is too far gone. The only evidence of it ever sporting a rod bearing was a bunch of metallic powder inside the oil pan. I need to get a crankshaft kit with pistons, rods, crankshaft, rings and bearings. I might just shop around for another good used 99 shortblock? I've been running with a 94 shortblock since last summer and it's doing o.k.

I think you should try them regardless of my own selfish curiosity whether or not the higher compression will cause them to fail?

I finally split the block today after tripping over it the past five months. It had the infamous rod knock when I bought it and I just had to see if I can fix it. My next plan will be to take the crankshaft and have it turned at my local auto machine shop. (if it's not too far gone).

Hmmm? The AWD 96 Legacy my wife drives still has torque bind (even with a FWD fuse in) and has been that way for a long time. I might try your idea too.

Can you post a pic of it? Are you saying basically you just spliced in a headlamp voltage wire to the FWD fuse receptacle?

Hmmm? Try may try searching "4EAT hard shift" there is a wealth of info there.