darsdoug

Alright. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Thanks. I tried to post a pic but I guess I'm over the limit? I'm starting to think it's a crank or cam sensor? Just a wild guess.

Yes I did that today. Fuel looks clear. I put a few drops on my driveway and put a match to it. Ignite's fast from what I see. I replaced the fuel pump with a known good one and also the knock sensor with one I had from an Impreza, but still no change. Spark plugs continue to get gas fouled. I know they have spark because I can see it when I lay one on the block and crank the engine over. "Orange spark". Nothing spectacular.

o.k. I'm getting a "22", (two long- two short), a "23"(two long-three short) and a "49" (four long-nine short).

I'll be doing that tomorrow. I just need to re-learn the OBDI morse code stuff.

I have a good fuel pump assembly I can swap in but it's from a 96 Legacy wagon. Not sure if that will interchange? The age of the fuel in the tank is unknown. Gauge on instrument cluster said quarter of a tank plus the 2 gallons of fresh gas I added yesterday. Gas cap was missing when I bought the car. Certainly hope someone didn't put water in the tank?

Got off work early today and put another ECTS on but it's still doing the same thing. Fires right up after sitting overnight but doesn't keep running for more than a second or two. I pulled the spark plugs on the passenger side for another look-see and they were both wet with fuel. Is there something that kills spark at initial start up?

Just put a different TB on and have everything lined up perfectly. Both cam pulley dash marks are twelve o'clock high and the crankshaft mark is right on the money. Still only wants to try and start when the throttle is wide open in the flood clear position. I don't get anything when my foot is off the gas pedal. I put another coil on but it made no difference. Spark plugs and wires are brand new. I see it has an igniter on the firewall above the dogbone? I'm guessing it may be bad?..... or something else? Sparkin plugs continue to get gas fouled. ughh. This wagon had been sitting for a year or longer, but for two hundred bucks I couldn't resist.

Yes it has good spark and the sensors are plugged in. Also installed a new set of NGK's. I'll put a different belt on and get it right this time. Thanks.

O.K. I'll do it right this time. It's been a couple years since I put one on.

I installed new HG's on labor day and a brand new timing belt that had been tossed in the backseat. The belt seemed awful tight even before I pulled the pin on the tensioner. I'm wondering if it was the correct TB for the engine? It acts like it wants to start with wide open throttle but it just won't come alive. The timing mark at the crankshaft is dead on but both cam pulley marks are about one tooth past midnight and the spark plugs are gas fouled. All the idlers are good. I think I have an old TB laying around somewhere I can use for a visual comparison. Just haven't had the time to look for it yet. What do you think?

Just got a 1990 Legacy wagon 4WD w/MT from a local fellow because I needed a second car for emergencies (like getting to work ...har har). I don't know the history of the car. The odometer says 117XXX of which I find amazing. The PO did attempt to put a new timing belt on it ...but it just wouldn't start. Stated he did a compression test but it was double zero on the passenger side. hmmm? He pulled the cylinder head on that side and could not find any bad valves, pistons, etc. and apparently lost interest...so now I have it. He did a leak down test with gasoline on that head and it appears fine. What do you think?

Boy he sure got a good deal for only eighteen hundred bucks !

Phase 2 heads were re-engineered with an increased valve angle causing the edge of the valve to travel deeper into the cylinder.

Take it to another repair shop.

Whoa! (I never knew that). Hope everyone see's this. Thanks.

In my Haynes manual it says the oil capacity of a 1996 EJ22 is 4.2 quarts. Often I see people dumping the entire contents of a five quart jug of oil in when changing their oil and filter. Can running EJ22's at "over-capacity" by 0.8 qt. cause the rear main to blow-out and/or leak? About 2 wks. ago I helped a friend replace the clutch and pressure plate in his 1999 EJ25d Outback. At that time we replaced the rear main seal and re-sealed the plastic separator plate after observing oil within the bellhousing and on the back of the block. I watched him put a thin smear of permatex on the OD of the rear main when he installed it. (I didn't say anything> see profile pic. ha ha) We bought the seal from Napa. They could not find a "separator plate" in their system. (I saw that coming). I'll swing by his place and check for oil where he parks it tomorrow.

Careful because those valve stems are about half the diameter of a pencil and they will bend easily. There is a special tool you can get that will lock both upper and lower cam pulleys in place during a timing belt installation. You could make your own by tack welding a couple old sockets onto a piece of metal X 2. Works great.

Warmed it up today and checked the oil for signs of metal. Looks like a few chunks were picked up when we dragged a magnet through the drip pan. Not so sure if I want to do the deal now.

Found myself a good upstream 02 sensor today at the local boneyard. It did the trick. No more CEL and scan tool is giving the green light. I had to do a little splice job because someone had cut the pigtail off, but it's working great.

Sorry I forgot to take pics. I'll take some when I put a new sensor in it.

The 02 wires look good all the way to the connector plug-in. The tip of the sensor had a baked-on light tan colored coating like it had been in a industrial oven. The code has been coming back after about one hour of driving. CEL illuminates after a driving cycle is completed.

Got myself a good OBDII scan tool. It's throwing a PO130 (upstream sensor). Great scanner. It even tells me which 02 sensor was bad. I removed that sensor today and put it back in just for practice.

I treated myself today and ordered a good quality oil pressure gauge with some extra metric fittings. My initial diagnosis was poor oil pressure after I had first listened to all the clattering that was coming from both sides of that turbo ea82. I'll be hoping the tester will confirm. I've always wanted one of those.

I have a deal where I can get a 94 wagon in trade for fixing a 89 wagon with clattering lifters. I'm fairly sure it's just a slugguish oil pump causing both banks of lifters to be clacking? I've noticed the oil pressure gauge seems to be all over the place and drops to zero at an idle. I can't hear any rod or main bearing noise. It's a straight 1989 turbo wagon with only 155,000 on the odometer. What are the odds it's just the mickey mouse seal in the oil pump? I'll drain the oil and check for metallic particles in the sunshine before I start tearing it down. Oh, I put a half quart of ATF in the crankcase and let it idle for a few minutes but it didn't quiet the lifters down. I imagine I should hook up a shop tool pressure gauge at the sending unit to see what's going on eh?

Gee that's a mystery? The counter person who pulled the codes never told me that. Didn't bother to show me the screen on the OBD II scan tool either. She just said "oxygen sensor" and that was about all I got. Rodney Dangerfield could have got more info from her....?? I think I'll just buy my own scan tool.