lesstutrey

had alignment done, but didn't have the caster/camber adjusted? I know with my lift kit they could not use a proper camber bolt and stuck a grade 8 in there because they could actually use it, not enough room for a regular camber bolt. Think that is why people wanted to see your car flat on the ground, to see if the caster/camber is correct. Have yet to kill my axles with a 2" lift with no body drop on a 2002, though i replaced the fronts stupidly, with new ones 12,000 miles ago (thought the noise was axle, i am dumb, it was rub from a really low pressure tire)

hmm... wonder if there was something similar done with 02 outbacks, i got mine used and always wondered why it didn't do seatbelt alarm/light for more than a few seconds when i start it.

Just went at both sides with BFH Any audible rub is gone. Need to get some crap in the wheel wells to see if that silver spot comes back but i spent a minute doing full extension turns in a parking lot around a light post, as fast as, i could in both directions and did not HEAR a damn thing. I'll probably spend some more time bashing on them but my arm is sore.. i spent 2 hours doing it. Further inspection made me realize that the spot it was rubbing was in fact above the connection point so was bashable.

The not turning so tight is really not an option, i try not to, but when i drive around parking lots.. it's kinda hard to avoid. The shiny spot is where the wheel well covers the connector for the control arm, i don't think i can bash it even a few mm.

Few questions: Who made that baja brush guard.. i want one.. for a OBW. How lifted is scoobyclimb's forester, and what kinda ground clearance does it have? Looks like a damn good time, too bad i'm so far from the PNW.

There are also hubcentric spacers.. don't know a thing about them, and if they'd help keep stress off the lugs. Doubt it. You are right, trying to find the right offset isn't a terrible idea. they're 48's so 35 offset sounds right.. right? Obviously BS has to be at least 1/3" inch less as well. Also, from what i've read the spacers where you add extended lugs are more durable, but then i read stuff that says the opposite. What i read on jeep forums says if you maintain them and get decent ones, you won't have issues. Maintaining is apparently using red locktite on the inner bolts and making sure they're up to torque after 100 and then 500 miles, then at oil change time. All i can find is people who don't trust them, but have no evidence on why not, and people who say they've run them and work fine and don't even need to be re-torqued when checked, although i wonder about using red lock on something that needs to be checked for torque after a few hundred miles and then on regular basis. Oh, and the stock lug studs are 20mm. If i get another set of wheels they're gonna be steels, cause i ain't spending much money on em! The main stuff i'm reading says one of two things get H&R spacers or get nice hubcentrics and get ARP racing studs. They're 3" so 10mm spacer seems doable. That's actually long enough i'd want to make sure my spacer was big enough that my lugs wouldn't bottom out when tightening them. Assuming wrx studs are the same studs other scoobies use.

So any recommendations on this? I am positive it is tire rub on the inner sidewall, it happens when the car leans toward the car and the tire shifts a little during the turn (they're supposed to) and like i say, it's only at full extension doing a u turn or maneuvering through a tight parking lot, but it's a situation i encounter regularly. I can do most u-turns without the rub, but parking lots are the real issue. It's really obvious where the rub is too, because there is no tar or dirt in the wheel well on the 2x1/2" spot it's rubbing So, is a spacer going to help, i don't see why it wouldn't? Also, how big do i go with the spacer.. i mean hypothetically the tire should only be 5mm closer so i was thinking 5mm spacer at most 8mm. This will not cause issue with it rubbing the upper wheel well or anything either, in large part due to the lift (not only higher up, the stance was narrowed around 1" i'd say, but that is only a guess). I can't see how one could do a 4-6" lift without needing spacers/spacer adapters with this vehicle, only because of the front. On a side note this tire is are AMAZING at highway speeds. I don't miss my MXV4's on the highway, and i love these on gravel, though they'll pick up a rock or two, but i think any tire will.. including slicks, granted these are 1/2" or so sized rocks and a slick picks up tiny pebbles. Definitely pick up rocks more than a standard all season touring tire, simply because the tread is much more widely spaced. I'd like to see them mounted on a non-lifted one and see if the rub issue still exists. I think it wouldn't.

He never said there was a clunk, just looseness in the wheel. Railroad tracks kind always do that, i live in a spot where i pretty much have to cross them all the time. Replacing my tie-rods made it a lot less loose. I'm waiting for my ball joints to go. I don't think it's ball joints, i think it's control arm bushings or tie rods, my gut says "tie rods." Especially if they've never been replaced on a 171k car.. the bushings probably aren't in very good shape either, which just makes it a bit worse. Replacing my sway links did nothing with train tracks, sways should only really be coming into effect when turning since that is why they exist for the most part. yeah they prevent side to side wobble over bumps, but train tracks don't cause sway like that.

GOt a lifted outback, will need rears eventually, my boots are rotting but can be replaced... who should i turn to? Seems they are impossible to find new..

Yes, there are major headgasket issues on those 2.5 motors. Every one should be done at 80-90k, new gaskets and resurfacing. 400-500$... unless things have gotten real bad. No major recalls on '03s i'm aware of. At that mileage new belts would probably not be a bad idea. New waterpump as well (that is like the only recall on g3 outbacks). These are by no means expensive or difficult jobs. Waterpump 30-50$ less than hour to replace, belts.. well.. they're belts, it's not hard. Suspension is also due too, for new struts. Springs should be fine.

Yes, i can also turn SLOWLY (idle speed) at full extension without rub. But basically, don't buy spacers, get spacer adapters so i don't break the studs. I should take a picture of the spot it's rubbing at so you get what i'm saying. really obviously where it's rubbing, the wheel well is shiny there And it will be on the INSIDE wheel on the turn (so normally my drivers side unless i'm going in reverse, and even then i don't think it rubs, since the rear tire becomes pivot point) . I had this SAME issue when i forgot to air up one of my mxv4 tires after running on sand and was like wtf is the rubber squeak.. OHHHHHH sidewall rub.

I would say the tread isn't rubbing at all, the sidewall is.

I drive a 2002 OBW VDC that i lifted up 2" (strut top). I had been waiting for my old tires to go before i got rubber this fall. No such luck, hole in the sidewall from sun rot and northern illinois road chemicals and i think a stick broke them. Still had over a 1/4" of tread left. Whatever, they're gone now. Been debating what type of AT tire to go with for the roo for a long time, geolanders or at2s. Then i noticed this tire, and said screw geolanders (don't care for them, and this is a better tread design IMO). And AT2s aren't very nice for the driving i do in this vehicle (also have a CJ8 for real off-road work, but it doesn't go on the highway much with Nitto Mud Grapplers). So i got these, had em installed. I knew that a 235/60 R16 might have rub issues at full extension in steering. Sure enough if i have some issues, with speed in a U turn i get some rub. The tire hits the rear control arm connector wheel well area. Not something i can bash in. Because i lifted the vehicle it brought the wheels in a little bit (i'm a redneck, we lift things, we also replace control arms when doing it if we're not dumb). Because i got a wider tire, it had more chance to rub. On a stock height one, i think rub might not be an issue, dunno. But it is an issue. I can say "well screw turning at full extension" and take the cut in turning radius, but the fact of the matter is, at some point i'm going to have to turn like that, and i'd rather just eliminate the rub all together. Plus, i don't like to compromise, i want it done right (taking the same attitude with the 73 nova i'm restoring now)! I figure i need a spacer in the 10mm ballpark, since that is the profile increase and it's only rubbing now that they're wider . Probably an 8mm. Does anyone know if i'll have issues with my lugs running 8-10mm of spacer? I'd rather not buy an expensive hub-centric one with extra lugs, but if i'm not gonna have enough thread if i get that thick of a spacer, i obviously need to get a nicer one (probably get a 15mm if i go the hubcentric route). Any feedback would be very appreciated. Apart from the rub i LOVE these tires and think they spank geolanders.. but cost a WEEEE bit more, but hey, USA Made.

For the guy with the Baja, there is a guy who makes a skid-plate brushguard combo for Baja's. He's from illinois. I have an 02 OBW that i lifted 2" with a strut top lift. Not easy to install if you don't know what you're doing... and even then it is was a huge pain I am at some point going to have one of these brush guards made for my OBW, but right now i have a '73 Chevy Nova that needs to finished up and sold, and until i get that done i don't have money to get one, and i'd be the first guy to test fit one on a g2 ob. He even has winch mount option and such. Looks like real quality stuff, i just don't have the spare cash right now, i got ~6k of work to do on this nova. rear departure: get a hitch, very easy to install, just have a 2nd hand to help hold it in place when you bolt it in. I believe it's 5 or 6 bolts, but it might just be 4.. i didn't install mine, i just put grade 8 bolts on. As for bigger tires, it's almost impossible. There just isn't room with the front strut to run anything much bigger than stock without rub on the tophat of the strut. If you ahve an 02 obw and it's NOT an h6 you can buy H6 and BAJA springs cheap, and they will give you about the same lift for WAY less than the kingsprings. Even a lift kit is cheaper than king springs, but way harder to install. Tire's that fit without trimming and figuring out how to redo the front suspension and change it to a coilover or SOMETHING to change the strut top are 215/65 R16s and 235/60 R16. AT Tires available? Uhh BFG TA Trails, in both sizes i believe (they used to have BFG KO T/A's in 215/65, can't find them anymore though), General Grabber AT2's, in 215/65; Geolander AT-S in 235/60. There are some others that aren't really worth mentioning i think too. Both sizes are like .5" more tire, so really, no noticeable boost in height or speedo issues, just more road noise and better offroad traction.

The topic says what i have, but i'll give a bit more detail. I have a 2002 VDC OBW that i jacked up a whoping 2 inches. I had my brakes replaced not that long ago (end of march) goldline duralast pads bla bla bla. when replacing one of the caliper pins was broken, couldn't find an OE part, so they used something from another car that was the same size. Seemed to be ok. Seems like it should work, pretty sure it was the front right caliper. Recently (past few hundred miles) i've noticed a squeak. It's not always there. In turns, don't hear it, even on curves i don't hear it. If i apply the breaks, squeak goes away, for a bit. If i drive in a straight line it doesn't ALWAYS happen, but it does now and again, especially if i've hit a bump or something. If i hit a rough patch of road at low speeds, it squeaks a lot. My thoughts: warped rotor/improperly held in place pad, wheel bearing (plz no) front sway link (replaced rears last fall with moogs) and possibly i guess the upper strut mount. Tie rods, inner and outer, are new, shouldn't be a ball joint, i'm not that mean to my car, axles are also fairly new (replaced them when the issue was tire rub =/ last summer i believe). Any other thoughts on the matter? I'm gonna shake it down in a day or two, just wondering where to look.

I had similar problem with my 02 obw, except it was dripping in from the roof, and it did not require me to open the hatch. It only happened after snow and i didn't properly remove the snow from the top, got ice.. got leak and some minor stains on my headliner. There was only one place MY leak could have been coming from, the seal on the connecting point for the roof rack in the rear. Siliconed it, then it turned to spring so i dunno if it worked Rain isn't getting in, but we had a lot of rain this winter, and it wasn't leaking then. Seems like ice was getting under the seal, forming under the seal, heated up and melted into the car. Mine wasn't the hatch.. unfortunately or fortunately i dunno

Pretty pointless idea, right? I mean.. could put gas tank and autopans protection and stuff if i did it, but is really gonna be worth the extra 40lbs+ of metal for some offroad durability, and is it even gonna provide that extra protection?

Yes i have 2002 obw h6 with a 2" lift. New Lenox is not too far, hour or so. Looking at the pics of the baja i see pretty much identical mounting points, however the outback has tie down/tow hooks on the underside that bolt on in the prior to 2004 models, and would make an excellent extra mounting point, because, who needs tie downs if you got a light/nudge bar. and i could hit cliffs on my way home to see how that skid plate holds up, not that i'd be trying to bash it in. What was the thickness on the plate? 3/16 seems about as thick as needed.

doesn't the baja have the same front end as 00-03 obw?

similar problem on an AT, cleaned throttle and temp sensors, haven't done iac. only revs to like 2k, but that's a bit high for normal, isn't it?

i've thought about the 215/70 route too. then i have a lot more options, and i am pretty sure there are people on the forums running both sizes... just kinda unsure. I like the geolanders treading, actually has some to the sides. When my current obw becomes my second car and goes up 4 more inches (6 inch lift) i'll probably get new calipers that actually fit with a 15" so i have way more selection in at tires. also figure a way to put coilovers on em.

They gonna fit? I mean, i am not worried about height, worried about profile width causing rub. I'll probably make it through the winter on my mxv4's but i'll need new tires after all the spinning in winter. I've debated geolanders, gt2's and bfg's but the geolander seems like most logical choice for me. I drive through muddy fields, the tread of a bfg or gt2 isn't gonna help in the mud much at all as it won't shed any mud, i've watched my friends KO's and GT2's turn into just as much of slicks at my mvx4s.

well, one bumper out there, i'd still love to see something for the front of a outback Just simple tube as i've said before... good to see the thread is at least somewhat alive.

Yeah, less than 65$ bucks for a pair of moog (which seem to be the brand of choice i've noticed, possibly because of the lifetime warranty i dunno) with 3 day shipping at rockauto. I got my KYB's from a few places, so i have an excel-g and a GR-2 in the rear, the front are matching GR2's McPherson struts that were like 75$ or so a piece, the rears were like 50$.

now if only i had a pneumatic torque wrench, need something like 75 ft/lbs on the links. Glad it isn't something more costly or more of a pain.