lesstutrey

Heh, i'm definitely not slapping low profile tires on my recently lifted outback with premium stock alloys, going with 27" ATs (215/65/R16 General Grabber AT2s) so i can go muddin with my truck friends, and for better bite in the snow next winter. A thing though, all alloy wheels have to have the lugs readjusted after about 40-100 miles of driving after the initial install anyway, if you aren't doing that you're missing a step in installing aluminum alloys. Probably get some argument about the aluminum alloy lug tightening...

it's the screw positions for mounting a towing kit, so i hope it would allow for pulling is about all i can say.

I wonder what the difference is with a 2002, which doesn't have that issue in the rear, but does in the front. It's making me steer clear of 215/70/R16 (28") because of the fear of rub so i'm looking at 215/65/R16 (27") cause of it. Of course my gen subaru runs a 26.6" stock so 27" is hardly a gain apart from the AT tire aspect. I like your brush guard... i think i may have something similar cooked up over at the local machine shop that specializes in aftermarket fitments for heavy equipment (like dump trucks and cherry pickers) except i think i'll be using screws and maybe have a prototype that might not be too expensive. Of course it would be for vehicles made from 10/99-6/03 or some date like that.. i have it written down somewhere. There are actually 6 screws per side on my outback to hook up the front tow stuff, that go into the car in 3 different directions, i think that should handle the load, 12 screws that is.

If i order a pair of tires from tireeasy (actually 5 but you get the point) when the install partner they list says installed from 25$ are they talking about the whole set of tires, or per tire? Something is saying per tire to me, and i see why they are so much cheaper than some other places if i buy em from wally world it includes mounting and unsure about the stems, cost about 130$ but that's shipped. Of course it is walmart mechanics and i hear horror stories, but not about them ****ing a tire mount. Usually just hear about them forgetting to put drain plugs back or not adding the fluids back. It's the same horror stories i hear from every chain. So is wally world a safe bet to have my tires installed and possibly purchased at? Gonna go with General Grabber AT2 215/65/R16 (.38" taller, and 10mm narrower than stock, but AT) until i get the perch problem figured out, then more lift and like some 29" MTs on steelies. Since i live in the midwest, in the middle of a ton of VERY FLAT FIELDS, what do we do around here is "muddin" in flat fields in pickups and jacked up SUVs until we find nice bogs to go back and forth through. Yup, that kinda redneck, no hills so they ain't hillbillies. Can't wait for video of my girl driving through a bog Probably hold on to the MXV4s because they don't really need to be replaced in terms of tread ware.. sell em on craigslist or something. I got the car with 70k, so they probably got put on at ~60k, now i'm at 80k so plenty of tread left. They definitely are nice all season tires, glad i didn't buy them though. Get my car back tomorrow, and get to decide if i want to repaint the bottom half because my repainted bumper really doesn't match the sun faded sides now. The red paint not so noticeable and not worth repainting unless i went a whole new color scheme (which i might, black top with the gold bottom would look nice, since i got the gold alloys too. My poor painter, making him work with the hardest colors)

so the white (with the subaru badge on the hood, tons of sjr stuff) one that appears in only a few shots is scotts? And Oneeye, i don't think those wheels have enough bite lol. Those look wonderfully fun.

Haven't seen it in person yet, there was a snafu in the sending of the tow eye cover, so he just shot the car today. So i have pictures of my car... though they really don't give proper perspective or show anything because it's florescent lighting in an all white shop. Anyway, who cares, here is what i have. Bumper waiting to go on, tow eye still en route, 2" Highguys lift installed.. though you can't tell it from these pictures. Detailing it tomorrow and putting the bumper on and i should have some better pictures for you. This is just what i got on my phone from the shop owner, and his crappy digital phone cam. Tough time matching 9 year old paint so apparently weathering shows a bit, still a bit green, but also still wet. Clear conditioner product will probably help a bit. Pretty sure i got fender flares going on too.. not positive about that. Said he had a real pain installing the lift as he had no room for the bolts or something. Took him a day even with a lift. Can't wait to see it all hooked up.. probably tomorrow.

As for the subaru run, dang, seeing a control arm bust like that is amazing. Makes me want to put an added support on the sides of mine. Coming from Ret. SSG Wagener (me), IMO tactical means it's designed to go indoors and outdoors without compromising the ability of the weapon. A benelli tactical pump action shotgun has a shorter barrel and pull, and of course weaver mounts to add a flashlight whatever crap you want. Often they have a rifled barrel to allow the use of sabot rounds. I could still hunt with my benelli, but the shorter pull and shorter barrel make it more versatile and tactically advantageous indoors. Yes, any gun is a tactical advantage over someone else, this is true, but a tactical weapon is more versatile than my Remington 700 300winmag with a 26" barrel and 48" of overall length. I could never clear a house with a 700, but i could pick off a target at medium to long range very effectively. With my AR15 i can take it from being short and compact, able to move around the inside of a house with ease and engage targets accurately, then go outside, extend the stock in half a second and fire to 400+ meters. That to me is tactical, it's a weapon designed for versatility thus giving a tactical advantage to the user in multiple situations, not just the one situation the weapon is tactically advantageous in. You may not like the fact people use the word this way, but you can blame the military for that since they define tactical: of, or relating to military operations that are smaller or more local than strategic ones; adroit, skilful or ingenious. Plus, tactical operations starting in WWII were conducted with smaller weapons like the german mp44 or the Thompson m1a1. Tactical civilian forces further cemented this terminology, as they are doing work in and out doors and need a weapon that can be tacticaly advantageous in both situations. Heck this is why the US is finally copying the styer-AUG and making m4 varriants that can swap uppers very easy from 5.56x45 to a 7.62x51 to allow them to reach out and touch targets much further away after clearing a nest. However to me a tactical AK47 is one those guys kept under their pajamas with a folding stock that allows them to completely hide the weapon. That is what is tactically advantageous to them when they went to blend in with the population, and then open fire on coalition soldiers, then disappear again... though i never understood why a lot of them put on masks, it was very obvious that they were bad guys when they did that. As for the subaru run, dang, seeing a control arm bust like that is amazing. Makes me want to put an added support on the sides of mine.

easiest way to do a winch hookup would to be to just put a 2" receiver on the front, and have the person get a winch designed to hook into a receiver.. and 2" receivers for fabricating are about 10$

that's a great! I was wondering what the fairlead was doing by the wheel until i watched the video. Is the camber on the left wheel off, or is that an optical illusion

My car is in the shop today. Should be raised 2" and have a new bumper skin, fixed hood and fender by monday. Of course my paranoid friend doesn't want me to give him the flu so i'm not allowed at the shop lol.

Would buying the Rampage Dakar universal mounts work? i could always build/have built a nudge bar better than the dakar light bar... or modify the light bar.. there is also the go rhino! universal mounts...

For driving lights i might do HID, for fogs, deffinitly halogen. Was planning on having a set of each. I can do some pretty serious offroading at a place near me, but they close at 5pm so a full set of roof lights seems over the top. Noticing you are in my area MilesFox (well, i'm about 2 hours from milwaukee) you might have to show me some trails up there in wisconsin. I know there are a lot up north from logging..

Well i plan on sticking a bullbar or something of that nature on the front end of my car, i'm going to add some supplemental lighting while i am at it. Driving and fogs lights, hence the relay question. I Figured 25$ on some quality 55w halogen bulbs for now might not be a bad investment until i get the bar made for me and install the lamps. I really dislike HID xenon lights, they really suck in snow imo, i want a yellowish tint.

also says that a wheel speed sensor could be out... but that would probably make your ABS light be on all the time.. or throw some kind of code... i would think.. or not, i like to think a lot of things would throw a code and they don't. I dunno what year you have so i dunno if it's OBDI or OBDII, but WSS are just magnets. They can go bad.

my electric impact wrench does 1280lbs of torque.. though i've never even come close to using that, sound like a good way to break ones wrist. I found it in the ceiling at a jobsite, can't beat free (all the sheet metal fabrication guys for HVAC use torque drivers now instead of drills, for good reason) Also it was the same brand (makita) and battery type (18v 3ah li-ion) i use for my drill (if milwaukee or dewalt still made metal tools they might still have my business, makita won me over long ago). But yeah, without a impact driver a BFH (i use a 3lb) the longest 1/2" ratchet you have and a 22mm socket.. maybe even get one for an impact driver cause you can break cheap sockets pretty easy with a hammer.

Something says landrover is just a bit more popular

do i need an upgrade in wiring if i switch to a 55w bulb in the fogs? I know it's not hard... just wondering. The cable SEEMS thick enough to me to handle 55w.... most wire is...

Just wanted to use the highbeams or fog light switch as a trigger to turn them on. They'd still draw main current from the battery, just using the current on the highbeam/fog to activate them. Scooby: that's the info i wanted

Was considering getting aftermarket foglamps to replace the OEM ones on my wagon. I have a 2002, so i'm not exactly sure what set would work well. My other thought is that since my current lamps aren't broken at all, putting a brighter bulb in them might be a better, cheaper idea? Should i just do bulbs, if not can anyone recommend lights that fit that hole. I'm strongly considering just the bulbs if i can get a a bull-bar made for my car, where i could mount a pair of driving lights, and fog lights. So, thoughts? Also, i've read about the wires being setup backwards or something, the hot wire is always on, the negative turns them on or something? How difficult is it to wire them in then? I'd want fogs hooked up to oem fogs switch, and driving lights hooked to high beams. Was thinking rectangular fog lights if i go for ones to mount to a bullbar.

I figure a brush guard for a subaru outback is doable for a G3 outback. Basically i see a pair of metal mounts that mount where the tie down hooks mount (3 screws on them) and possibly then have a flat spot on the bottom to connect to the four bolts just below the bumper (that a lot stump guards connect too). Weld the 3 peices together and then make some sort of mount for the actual bull-bar. My car is gonna have the bumper skin off this weekend, so i figure i can grab measurements on the spacing between the tie down eyes, how far up it goes and if the bars need to come at an angle to come out beside the fog lights, not in front of them. Before i go to the effort of measuring this all out, anyone know the spacing or know where i can find the info i'm looking for without a tape measure?

beefy.

How about 215/70R16s with a 2" lift on a 2002 OBW.. seem doable without trimming?

i love that bumper. something says i can't get one though.

SJR, HighGuys, Michael Appel all make kits and are members on this board. Their kits for over 4" all include drop blocks. Some of them drop so it's only 1" over stock, some of the others have 2" You have 15" wheels, there are a ton of tires available. If it's a daily driver you'll want AT tires, not swampers or mud tires, because AT's make WAY less noise for your daily driving, and if you're only gonna spend a little time on the trails an AT seems like the best bet. BFG AT KO's and General Grabber AT2 seem to be the most popular rubber people run for ATs. Generals cost way less, a set of 5 costs less (a full size spare is a VERY good idea) than 4 BFGs, but the generals only have 2 ply walls, and the BFGs have 3 ply walls so hypothetically they should last longer. When i do tires, i'm going for AT2s, simply because of the cost aspect, and they are well reviewed. That will be soon.

Car goes in for body work and lift/strut job this friday. I'm webmaster for that shops site, so there will be pictures, soon. Give it a week:popcorn: Got a 5th wheel, gotta get some rubber for it, and then figure out where and how to mount the 5th wheel. We had a major blizzard here so his shop is a bit behind schedule.... I can post a picture... of my car burried in snow lol.