oleman77

Ok thanks for responding...

Need some help troubleshooting what could cause low compression on 2 cylinders. Performed a compression check last night and found that the two cylinders on the passenger side have only 15# of compression. The two on the drivers side showed 118# & 108# which I assume is good. Any deas what would cause low compression on two cylinders on the same side? I'm thinking valve/head issues but I'm not sure. Also what is normal compression for a ea71? Thanks....pete

I'm going to be putting new CV joint boots on a front axle. Is there a procedure that I can do to be sure the CV joints are good before I put new boots on it? THX.......Peter

If the oil pump was bad/weak would it still give me good oil pressure?

Sorry forgot to mention I did install an analog pressure gauge. I feel good that it is accurate

I have an ea71 that has about 55 pounds of oil pressure when engine is first started. As the engine warms up the oil pressure slowly drops and after I have drive it for say 10 minutes or so at idle the oil pressure drops to zero pressure. When I increase engine rpm the pressure builds again. Can someone please point me in the right direction as far as what to check first? Thanks for the help......Pete

SoobGoop, did you ever find a carb kit? I'm looking for one myself... thx....pete

I have a strange problem. I have been working on a 77 ea71 and had it running. Started working on headlights as they were not working. Began with fuses, they were fine. Looked at wiring at light switch but was unable to find problem. Anyway when I tried to start engine to move the car it wont stay running. After messing with it for a while I noticed that it runs but as soon as the key went to the run setting it would die. I restart it and it runs but will only stays running if i keep the key to the right of the run setting but not quite to the start setting. Its a strange issues....any ideas???

my old Subies under 4" of new pow in beautiful New Mexico

Welcome Dirk... I just recently begun on a 77 my self...not sure how far I will take mine just looking to make it a DD for now. Here's a few pic's of mine.... She sat in a field for 20 years so it's taking a bit to get her going.....pete

Welcome dutch dude... Whatcha drivin??

Thanks for the input guys...I did find the problem. Found out the fuel pump is powered from voltage regulator. After doing more troubleshooting with a volt meter I found while the engine was running the fuel pump was getting no power. According to electrical drawings the power for the fuel pump comes from the voltage regulator output labeled "H". I also bought a in-line fuel gauge to check for fuel pressure at the carb which was also showing zero confirming the pump was not running correctly. I took the cover off the VR and started the car again while monitoring the VR coils. Neither one of them where cycling as they should (no cycling at all). The VR gets it's power from the alternator so thats where I went next. I put my volt meter directly on the battery which measured 12V when the car was not running. Once I started it (even for the 20 seconds) it was long enough for me to see that the voltage stayed at 12V instead of the 14V which is expected while car is running (alternator should put out 14V). This told me my alternator was bad. Changed the alternator out, the VR began to work suppling proper voltage to fuel pump which supplied about 3# of fuel pressure to carb curing my problem:banana: Thanks again for all the help guys...pete

Thanks I appreciate it!

Glad it's fixed....thanks for the update...

Rust, I did run the pump by hot-wiring it to the battery, it ran consistently smooth pumping plenty of fuel. So I feel real confident the pump is ok, but changed it with another pump to be sure but had the same result. What happens is the engine will run like 30-45 seconds then die. I can immediately re-start the engine and it will run 30-45 seconds again. I pulled the hose that feeds the carb and it seems to have plenty of fuel. One thing I noticed is that the pump only pumps when I'm cranking the engine and the manual says it should run interval (more than 5 seconds) when the key is in the first position. Mine doesn't do this but not sure if it should. I'm thinking of getting a pressure gauge to insure I'm keeping good consistent fuel pressure to the carb (my manual says I should have 1.8 - 2.5 psi). I don't think this is the problem but it's possibly something I can check off the list. I was reading another thread and it was talking about the VR supplying the power to the pump and after looking at my manual it does show that the power is coming off of "H" from the VR. Does anyone know how to check the VR to insure the power to the pump from "H" is good? Should it be a consistent voltage or a interval voltage? Can I check it with a voltmeter? Thanks for the help guys.....pete

I have a question...my fuel pump will pump when I pull the hose off of the carb but when I put it back on the carb it will pump for a second but then seems to quit (engine quits running). When I pull the hose off the carb again it will not pump for a while but eventually begins again (after cranking the engine for a while). It almost seems like when fuel pressure is reached it shuts off as it should but when pressure drops low enough for the pump to come back on it doesn't. Does that sound logical? Is this a common issue? THX.....

Have you heard when Bill is planning on making more?? I'm definitely in for a kit!!

Fupkid1, Hey dude I need some help. I went to title the car that Andre sold me and his uncle messed up when signing the back of the title. I need to some how get a hold of either Andre or maybe Todd or his wife. I need to get a duplicate title and I need their help to get it. Please let me know how to get a hold of one of them. Thanks for your help dude.....pete

Shin, My son has a 98 OBS 5 speed manual and we recently replaced his speed sensor. His symptoms were his speedometer needle began jumping up and down a bit then totally went out falling to zero. His odometer was out as well as this sensor runs both. When the sensor totally failed his check engine light came on as well. His sensor mounted on the side of his tranny with two wires coming out of it and a plug on the end. It just needs to be unplugged and the sensor unscrewed (his was a 17mm wrench). There is a notch inside the tranny that the metal piece on end of the sensor needs to line up with when you install the new one. Once lined up just tighten it up a bit (his wasn't that tight), plug her in and you should be good to go... It was super simple to change out and you should be able to reach everything from up top in the engine compartment. The part isn't stocked by some parts stores but could be ordered (ours was $110 at AutoZone) and some parts stores don't even carry it. We ended up getting it from Subaru for $130, they had it in stock. Good luck to you, hope this was helpful....

DanRenfroe2016, Was the kit pretty easy to install?

Looks great!! What size wheels and tires did you go with? I cant wait for more kits to be made.....pete

Thanks for the ideas guys.... Ended up being a bad speed sensor that we needed to get from Subaru for 130 bucks...but at least they had it! Very easy to change out, took less than 10 minutes... One other thing: the odometer wasn't working either, they must use the same sensor.. Thanks.....pete

I have an issue with my speedometer. It didn't quit working is just not showing correct speed. The speedometer needle jumps up and down as I'm driving. Any ideas what it could be? It just all of a sudden began doing this... Where is the speedometer cable at? Is it electronic? Thanks for your help....pete

Ok thanks fella's....I'll check it out...

looking for a STI V6 front strut bar. Anyone know where I can get one?